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swgn x 72 2002tii atlantikblau

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Very original RHD 2002tii in Melbourne, Australia.

4-speed, black vinyl/white cloth seats. Has a later Model 73 style steering wheel, not sure if this is original. PO fitted an alarm, immobiliser and central locking.

Lots of TLC needed to get her back into shape. Runs beautifully, starts every time, stays nice and cool and no smoke.

On the immediate to-do list:

- Spare wheel well has the usual rust

- RH rear sill has some rust showing through

- RH rear corner seems to have some badly repaired accident damage. Expecting lots of bog/bondo under that paint

- LH door frame is shot and needs replacement Nope, actually it looks ok, just coated in bog for some reason?!?!

- Paint on upper surfaces is badly sun damaged

Planning to get the body right, then get stuck into refreshing all the running gear.

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Prerequisite BMW Group Archive email:

The BMW 2002 tii rhd VIN 2751340 was manufactured on December 13th, 1972 and delivered the same day to Great Britain. The original colour was Atlantik, paint code 041.

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Dashboard just before I took ownership.

201211-instruments.jpg

No idea how that rev counter bezel got so out of shape, another thing to fix.

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Refurb the entire cluster and clean the grounds etc. as they probably havent been touched ever! Its a good project and will mean you wont have jumpy dials into the future.

The car looks like a nice project - true European spec cars in Oz are quite rare. Any idea how long its been in the country for? The UK salt roads and all....!

Also - join up! http://www.facebook.com/groups/316528471765582/

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The car looks like a nice project - true European spec cars in Oz are quite rare. Any idea how long its been in the country for? The UK salt roads and all....!

Not idea what the story is. PO had the car for 12 years and bought it from someone who apparently had for about the same amount of time... Plate was issued in 1976, though this may not be entirely accurate.

She actually seems very solid underneath, some evident rust though I haven't found anything too scary yet...

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201211-steeringwheel.jpg

Four-spoke steering wheel, odd for a '72 model?

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RH rear sill, looks a little nasty. Fitted with oversill repair panel, note overspray on the sill cover.

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RH rear quarter. Bumper is pretty tight against the body work, thick paint and bog evident in that seam area. Model badge installed poorly with d/s tape, could even be a Model 73 piece rather than a correct 71 one.

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Snorkel piece suggests a new nose at some point. Front bumpers squashed up against the body work. Both struts missing their covers, bearings underneath are pretty grubby.

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Lifted out the rear bench, lots of disintegrated rubberised horse hair dust and other random objects long lost under the seat.

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Obligatory shot of the gathered under-rear-seat haul of crap and miscellaneous fallen off bits. Anyone need a pen?

201211-rear-seats-3.jpg

Cleans up alright, pretty clean underneath.

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A quick tidy up of the rear licence plate holder.

I think these is the OEM NLA parts 51185480186 + 51185480185

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Tonnes of dirt and much caught up behind it.

Just a quick clean today, due for a date with the chromer in a few months.

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Using the SH02 Shifter Housing Bushing Set for BMW 2002 from AKG Motorsport.

AKG website mentions that they're made from Delrin, though they are in fact Polyurethane 75D spec. AKG have a page explaining the pros/cons of Delrin vs 75D.

Jacked the car up at the front and put her onto axle stands. Crawled underneath and removed the rod (part 25111201238) that supports the shifting arm (the large pressed metal plate that extends out from the gearbox to the shifter location).

Rod is held by two bolts. One long bolt on the lower/transmission end where the bushings will be installed. Another short nut/bolt on the higher end furthest from the transmission. Both bolts are 13mm, I used a pair of ring spanners to undo everything.

201212-shift-bushing-1.jpg

⬆photo.1: Rod covered in oil and grime, looks wet as I just sprayed it with some degreaser. Spot the original bushing in place, metal-rubber-metal.

The rubber was all sticky and mushy, understandable based on the amount of leaked engine oil it was swimming in.

Managed to scrape most of this goo out and pulled the inner metal piece out with a pair of pliers.

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⬆photo.2: Once the inner metal part of the bushing was pulled out, I continued to scrape the rubber mush away and was left with the metal outer band locked tight into the rod.

Damage to the rod most likely caused by a guibo letting to at some point and smashing against this bracket. I'll likely get a replacement part when I pull the gearbox.

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⬆photo.3: another view of the remains on the original bushing. Outer metal part is stuck fast to the rod.

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⬆photo.4: Tried several times to drive the old bushing out with a hammer and chisel. Even tried heating the whole thing up over a flame to get it moving. No dice.

Ended up using a hacksaw to carefully cut the bushing through in two places.

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⬆photo.5: As soon as the second cut was made, what remained of the original bushing slid right out.

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⬆photo.6: Installing the new AKG Motorsport SH02 Shifter Bushing set. Push them in either side.

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⬆photo.7: Done.

I have a few other bits from AKG yet to install, might leave these until I pull the gearbox.

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what other AKG parts? just a heads up in case they include motor mounts. the AKG ones are really well built, however, you may not like them in a street car. transmit lots of noise and vibration into the cabin. I have them in my M2. unless it is a dedicated track car, i would use stock rubber engine and tranny mounts.

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what other AKG parts?

At this stage, just their shifter bits. Still to decide on poly vs. rubber engine/trans/diff/suspension bushings.

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very nice. good to see you're straight into it.

where in Melbourne are you from?

Thanks, lucky for me there's no shortage of things to do.

I'm in Malvern.

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When I received the tii, the engine and gearbox were coated in oil and muck.

After a thorough degreasing I found that while there didn't seem to be any serious leaks, there was some muck above the starter motor and on the breather hose between valve cover and air intake. After taking off the breather hose, I discovered this:

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At first I thought the hose had sprung a leak. Lots of fresh and old oil around this area, clearly coming from this little hole. After much research it turns out this hole is supposed to be used for a small nipple for a vacuum host that connects up to the throttle body.

A quick look under the intake tubes reveals that this inlet has been blocked off with a red blanking piece:

201301-breather2.jpg

Consulting realoem, the bits are supposed to look like so. Parts 3 and 4 are the ones I'm missing. Not referenced on realoem therefore would assume they're NLA.

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A quick trip to the parts store and I have these:

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Test fit, I subsequently recut the hose nice and square:

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Had to trim the connector so it would fit properly:

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Here's the hose information, if anyone is interested.

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Left the hose quite long as I wasn't sure how hard it was going to be to fit without removing the intake runners. A pain to fit the hose onto the throttle body in such tight confines, leaving the hose long made it a little easier.

The vacuum connecter used is not ideal. The fit is a too loose for my liking though had little other option. Would more than likely be a better fit if I was using a new breather hose (part #11151252665). If anyone has a source for the original connector/nipple piece - I'd be very interested.

Verdict: No more oil in the general area after a good 1hr drive last night. Downside is that the car now seems much more reluctant to start. Before fitting it always started first time, whereas now there is more of a stutter and actually failed to fire a few times. Lots of (black) oil and muck sprayed out the exhaust in the garage the first time I started up, not since giving her a good run. Engine idle and performance through the rev range seems unchanged.

- More photos and info (my2002tii.com)

- Part numbers and diagram (realoem)

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After taking my gauges apart for a clean I realised quite a few bulbs had blown and the bulb behind the big red warning light was missing altogether.

So I got myself some goodies in the mail from superbrightleds

201301-dash1.jpg

1x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-G6: Green

1x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-A6: Amber

2x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-R6: Red

1x WLED-x6: 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base, WLED-B6: Blue

4x WLED-x5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 LED Wide Angle Wedge Base, WLED-NW5: Natural White

Coloured bulbs look like this. Each 'bulb' has 6-LEDs set at a narrow angle to direct light straight out of the cluster:

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For the four natural white 'bulbs' I chose to use wide angle versions to cast the background gauge lighting. These have 5-LEDs, one bulb directing light vertically, with four others casting wide light:

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Fitting is very simple once you have the cluster out.

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Though I found that after taking everything apart to clean the gauges and glass and then putting it all back together again that the LEDs for the tacho background lighting didn't fit through the holes. As you can see, the 'bulb' is bigger than hole. So apart it came and I fitted the 'bulbs' from the reverse side.

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All sorted and small wiring harness reinstalled. I am missing one bulb holder (bottom right), will source one of these later when I do a full cluster restore.

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All installed and tested. Lights are much brighter - though not too much so.

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Red warning light lights up properly when the handbrake is on, though it never quite extinguishes when the car is running. Very dim, yet still there. Thinking it could be a bad ground or something, another thing on the list to check later.

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