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Valve Adjustment

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Hey guys,

So i did some searching around and found how to do a valve adjustment on the m10, but still had a few questions, hopefully you guys can help me out with them. First off can the valve cover gasket be reused? i have heard from some places it can and other say it cant. From previous knowledge its never good to reuse a gasket, but if this one can be reused then thats great. Also what is the best measurement to adjust it to. i have heard .008 is the best and ive also heard .006 and .007. So hopefully you guys can answer these for me.

Thanks,

Brandon

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searches would answer this stuff quickly.

I always adjust valves to the tightest specification mentioned in the book, in this case .15mm COLD on the valve spring side. If your gasket is in decent condition you can re-use it so long as you didn't break it at all when taking the cover off. This is one of the few gaskets you can get away re-using considering that the valve cover isn't under much pressure/doesn't see much oil coming out of it.

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Brandon, it's not a good idea to reuse the same valve cover gasket since it is so inexpensive to replace. According to the owners manual .006-.008 should be the right clearance.

Please look at the pictures I posted below. If you need more pages let me know.

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post-22878-1366766663997_thumb.jpg

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Brandon, I just got my 2002 and learned a few things doing my first valve adjustment.

1) Replace the gasket unless its relatively new.

2) Use 2 feeler gauges when doing the valve lash. Set the valve lash with a 0.007 gauge and then when done, take your 0.008 gauge and make sure it does not fit. I had to redo the valve lash because using 1 gauge is difficult to get the measurement just right. The 0.007 should be able to slide but with some friction and the 0.008 should not fit at all.

3) Make sure the valves are not being lifted by the cam shaft. Make a map of the valves and then set the lash for the valves that have their cam lob pointing down. Then give the motor a quick crank (obviously with the spark plug wires removed, so we don't fire the motor) to change the cam shaft position and then do the remaining valves. Only set the lash on valves that full closed.

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I use the same gasket over and over, here's a trick from the 1930's. Since this is not a pressure-retaining gasket, you needn't worry about leaks. Spread a light coat of wheel bearing grease on the gasket surfaces.

Cheers,

Carl

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You don't need to pull all the spark plug wires, just pull the coil wire and you'll accomplish the same thing.

Bob Napier

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Guest Anonymous

I use a three step plan on mine, first stone cold, then check when warm as you will have one or two that will slap loud, when done correctly the motor will sound like a sewing machine, some metal noise but no loud tapping, then I check again when cold to assure none are too tight, seems like a lot of work but for me to get them exact it works, dont use starter when turning moter, with key off in neutral wearing gloves grab fan blade with one hand and put tension on alternator belt, you can turn the motor manualy to get lobes in exact spot, both facing straight down. Hope this helps Dave

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WOW an owners manual that actually shows you how to do things...crazy. would be nice if they made them like that still. Mine didnt come with the owners manual...oh well.

Thanks for your help. I would love if you could send me all the pages to the owners manual and send them to my email, if that isnt to much to ask. I tried to PM you but it wouldnt allow me to. maybe if you could pm maybe that would work

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Before reinstalling your valve cover, set it on a sheet of plate glass and make sure it isn't warped; if it is, you can have it milled at a machine shop so it is flat again. A warped valve cover will leak even with a new gasket, and a PO may have been a bit too vigorous in tightening the holdown nuts.

Then gently tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern starting with the center two and working outward so it won't warp (again).

mike

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