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mudchemist

Otto-Bot Racecar

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These are the front struts that came with the racer. I pulled them and installed the struts I built for the other car. I went back through the paperwork that came with the car and I am pretty sure it was originally put together as a drive and race style vehicle.

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So those are Tii struts and they did appear to have a degree of bend in them. The camber plates look like an earliar Ireland run but still worked. The coilover kit is Irelands, but you will notice the struts were NOT shortened. The perch was cut in half and rewelded onto the strut tube. I must admit that I am kind of wondering if we are all working too hard shortening the struts. Note that strut inside is full length, but I see no reason a spacer would not work.

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How about those calipers! Monsters. Single line variant off a 7 series. Stops the car great, and anything you happen to be towing. I did like how intimidating they were showing through the rims. Those extended studs are awesome as they allow 1/2" spacer with room to spare, but they are 1/2" x 20....for those of you that may not be aware, BMW's are metric. They matched the rear studs still on the car...so now with the new strut setup I have a SAE rear and a Metric front. (I bought black lugs for the front to help remember)

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I will be selling off this setup. Rotors and pads still have plenty of life, and the struts are still working hard.

 

Final pic of the night is the sway bar....which we believe is a early Ireland bar.  Same pillowblock setup but different blade. It worked. It is off the car now and a fresh Ireland special bar is in using the original mounting points. This will also be sold off.

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Good work and write-up, Mike (smart to differentiate between SAE and metric lug nuts .... just be sure to carry a spare of each). Those Tii struts should work well for someone here on the FAQ. -KB

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Probably had the car up and down 10X this last weekend. I was able to get the previously built struts onto the car with the single line volvo calipers (freshly rebuilt).

 

Pics below show those versus the 7 series calipers - picture doesn't do it much justice. They are a full 3 lbs lighter each.

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Also put in a pic to show where the spacer/washer goes to keep the calipers centered over the rotors. I ended up running 0.06" to get them centered. If you look in the pic closely you can see the shiny washer, and the punch pointing to the very limited clearence that necessitates that spacing.

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Also replaced the hub bearings and added the 90mm studs that will allow more than enough length for spacers. (Thanks to Toby for pointing at Turnermotorsports.com in another thread.) I probably should have called Ireland to see if they had these in stock....

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Also got got the reworked Bilsteins back on friday for the rear. These were rebuilt to Kens specification. Not my secret to give away, but they are very different than the sport cores I sent in and my initial inclination was these can't be right....but Ken explained it and I like the reasoning. The surface rust is notice that I do indeed have a budget and a core is a core.

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Also managed to get the last stub axle and bearing set replaced on the rear. That makes me feel a little better as the drivers side that I already replaced was pitted from the threads back to the spline. I can't believe the wheel didnt fall off on me when I took it out.

 

So this weekend....nut/bolt the car, reset the suspension, and maybe finish up a few less critical tasks before Willow the week after.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Just one more post tonight...because UPS ninja managed to sneak my new Hawk Pads up here without me knowing.

 

1) For those looking to fit these on the Volvo girling calipers it is part number HB204E.615 - there is another part number associated with those Volvos for the rear, which none of us use. I couldn't find that number in the formum when I was getting ready to order.

2) More importantly, just one sticker for $150? I may not be winning but somebody might take a picture of the other side of the car when the other guys are passing me.

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Looking good, Mike - see you at the Friday test day (we'll be shaking-down the new car). -KB

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I am running "period correct" drum brakes in the rear. Search the brake pads at Hawks site by selecting the donor car for your calipers. The reason I included the part number above is because the Volvo 240 shows two numbers without clear explanation that one set is for the rear.

 

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts-search

 

Be sure to edit your results in the field above so that others can stumble across that info later.

 

 

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What are you doing for rear brakes?  I need to find a Hawk part number for the VW rear disc conversion.

vw rear disk conversion pads are very common shape.  fsmi # D340.  used in audi/porsche/vw and the wilwood CPB calipers which i have in the rear of my car.

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I am very interested in how much you would want for the struts and sway bar if they are still available

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Reply sent. Anyone interested in those parts can send me an email through the boards. I need the garage space back so i would not mind getting some of these things cleared out. I have been tripping over those struts for 2 months.

I am back in the garage fixing the damage to the race car after a little incident coming out of turn 4 at willow. I'll post some pics of that soon.

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Took the car up to Willow Springs about a month ago with the intention of running with VARA for the weekend. After getting some help getting the brakes bled I took the car out for a test session and got about 4 laps in before losing control coming out of turn 4. There is no runout where I departed the racing surface and I went in reversed and sideways to collect a nice whack against the clipped portion of the hill.  Folded the trailing arm and popped me up onto the hill.

 

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I have a picture of the arm off the car that i need to post as well. The boxed area held up well. The fold is in the apex of the arms. Tom Cleve said that is where they usually fail. The CV axle snapped. The diff and fuel cell appear to have been fully spared. I was shocked that the shock (no pun) was straight. That custom valved Bilstein was pricey...happy it was straight!

 

Rocker took a big hit. It looks like the car is straight and the rear subframe came off easily during the teardown. I am going to get a new arm put together and then I will string line it for straightness. If that goes okay I will replace the rocker and put it back on the track. If its bent...well I have that chassis that started the whole thread.

 

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Thanks to those that helped out that day. I really appreciate the group effort getting it back on the trailer. 

 

Ken Blasko, Tom Cleve, Jeff Ireland, Scott Parsons, Mike McCarthy, the Track Safety crew...and unknown others that just came over to help a stranger. Great community.

 

One final thought...especially for those building their own cars...when I took that whack going sideways into the hill my head whipped to the left and cracked the B-Pillar pretty hard and rung my bell. My car does not have a containment seat and had not considered that until I tested the helmet. Well, lesson learned. Before this car goes back out there will be a seat with halo in it.

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Here is what the arm looks like off the car.

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Hope to have the new arm welded up tomorrow. No rush as I am waiting on the stub axle. (OEM...no use running billets when I only use them 1 weekend at a time!)

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New stub axle arrived and I managed to get the trailing arm reinstalled last weekend. It was nice to see the car back on the ground.

 

Tonight I dropped plumb lines from the subframe bolts and cross measured the car to find that it was within 2mm on both measurements. That was a pleasant surprise. So now I will troll through the forum for a good writeup on swapping out the rocker which is collapsed on the outside. If anyone knows of an especially good writeup with pictures, I would greatly appreciate an email link.

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The car is back on the ground and i am going through the bodywork slowly. Post pics of that later.

I am taking care of the issue of moving the calipers inward to clear my 13" wheels and maximize the pad swept area. I missed that....oops. Below is a pic of how much pad the girling brakes miss if you dont relocate the mounting holes in about a 1/4".

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In the end i "slotted" the hole inward using a dremel grinding bit for the rough cut and a 7/16" grinding bit on the drill to round it out. It took about an hour per caliper to carefully grind the slots.

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Below you will see the stock and modified mounting holes.

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I have test fit them up to the car and will backfill the old mounting hole space. Will post that later.

Now I am putting up pics and comments so that other can find this because this was a PITA. Self inflicted. I originally took the approach of welding the holes shut and redrilling the new ones myself on a decent drill press. The bits seemed to walk out of alignment which i sense was due to difference in the hardness of the cast and weld metals. I am sure a machinist would have worked straight through that. So i welded them shut and tried again with the same result. Now the mounting ears are looking rough and i am concerned about getting them to mount true. Off to the junkyard to find another set of single line girlings off a 91 or 92 240. For the first time ever, i was shocked to find all of the 240's have been plundered of their front and rear calipers. Never before. Got lucky and found an incoming 92 down the street at another yard where the 240's were also bare. So anyway...way too many hours of work. Not worth the effort for a weekend warrior. Pay someone else to do it. Who is grabbing these calipers. I troll these yards and have never seen that. Is there some spec Lemons thing i havnt heard about?

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Ouch good progress after the crunch!

 

Good luck getting back on track... heehee!

 

Cheers,

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