Jump to content
mudchemist

Otto-Bot Racecar

31 posts / 7157 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Well, I have finally found a starting point for my racecar build. "Otto-Bot" came to mind as I looked in the rearview mirror of the truck and realized this thing is going to need one heck of a transformation to get to the track.

The plan is to build this car to run in VARA most likely as a C-Sedan. I found the caged shell locally. The shell is rough...but the cagework looked professional and thought out.

I am hoping for a 18 month process, but wouldn't be surprised if it went twice as long.

2012-11-09_09-51-54_348_zpsfb567cb0.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where's the "like" button?

(welcome to the fun, Mike) -KB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe you would want to configure the car for B sedan, not C production. Most vintage clubs follow the SCCA rules and BMW 2002's are considered B-Sedan in most vintage clubs. Still, within the B-sedan class you should have a great time, there are typically many 2002's that run in Vintage, so it will be nice to watch your project and cheer for you once you are on track.

There is great potential to be had from this little cars! Best wishes from another vintage racer!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

He's already added lightness.

;-)

think you are going to need to lower it a few feet and get bigger tires.....:-)

keep up the blog!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I believe you would want to configure the car for B sedan, not C production. Most vintage clubs follow the SCCA rules and BMW 2002's are considered B-Sedan in most vintage clubs. Still, within the B-sedan class you should have a great time, there are typically many 2002's that run in Vintage, so it will be nice to watch your project and cheer for you once you are on track.

There is great potential to be had from this little cars! Best wishes from another vintage racer!

ken-who posted above you two spots - plays a similar roll down here in vara as you do up there in the northwest. The class mike is building the car for already has several competitive 2002s racing in it. It is always fun to watch all of them run. ---- talked to Paul yesterday and he seems pretty anxious to get his hands dirty on you setup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, I have already let Ken know that his experience and advice will be most welcome. I have also looked over some other cars for good/bad ideas, and "sticky" points in the build. Of course the folks at Ireland are always good for advice.

The SCCA route just falls outside my interests. VARA C-Sedan and wherever else that fits.

Agreed...I need to lower it and add bigger tires. VARA restricts tire size so the monster truck option is out.

Anyway...I had to return the stand that I used to transport the car. Put the car up on cinder blocks and timber. That led to a day of re-acquainting myself with the MIG welder. Not the worst thing to do as I get ready to fill all those trim holes and the PO "seam-welding".

This stand took me about 4 hours to fabricate. Would have gone faster if someone knew where my brothers chop saw went. 4" cutting wheels are ridiculously slow, and dangerous in my hands.

I liked the previous stand as it had angled supports going to the front subframe mounts. This makes it very easy to tilt the car and load it onto the trailer with two people. The rear is connected to the subframe mount pickups. About $200 in steel and harbor freight castors.

1354409627529_zps4a030f50.jpg

1354494672276_zps000b0f28.jpg

1354494712462_zpsa3bfebf9.jpg

Next step will most likely relate to cleaning up the bodywork and fitting panels from the 1602 donor. I also have a few hours of planning and budget work to do to make sure I stay on track. No pun intended.

Edit: I had requests for measurements and outlined that in a separate thread. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/p,983124/#983124

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow...the blog lets me know how time flys. 3 months....parting out the 1602 and getting ready for baby. The former is something I might avoid forever. Latter gets to drive the car later :)

Finally got parts swapped over from the 1602 for the Ottobot and started cleaning/working on the suspension bits while I finish off my Colorado car in the garage.

Control arms and trailing arms welded up, painted and bushed. I might fab up the extra sets as I am jealous off all of you laying down those aerospace welds. I have weld envy...

Jigged

1362432669833_zps1e6737ef.jpg

Migged

1362432671835_zpsb9ed7195.jpg

1362432672093_zpscc0c0375.jpg

Need to make a run to Ireland soon for the front strut items and camber/toe adjusters for the rear. Would welcome a knowledgeable opinion from those who have tried the eccentric and posi-lock versions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Need to make a run to Ireland soon for the front strut items and camber/toe adjusters for the rear. Would welcome a knowledgeable opinion from those who have tried the eccentric and posi-lock versions.

On the adjustable rear camber kit, I'd suggest you get/install a version which adjusts with a single nut/bolt (the folks at IE will know).

Also: It's probably time to create an album in your gallery for baby photos...

-KB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heather asked why I was working late in the garage and I told her I was trying to get as much done on the car as possible before the baby arrives. She said "You will have time to work on it after the baby arrives." Having her support the project is reassuring. I'm lucky.

Shortened Struts:

Spent about 2 hours on the FAQ looking at how everyone else has done this...ST, Honda parts....forget it. Ireland is up the street, and I can either save a few bucks or get a few minutes one of Ireland guys on pickup. I opted for the latter.

So the goal is to make a normal strut look like the shortened strut. Like this...

1362892799247_zps2628a0b9.jpg

Cut the perch off to get easy access to the strut. Then cut off 3" from the top and 12 3/4" from the bottom. Use those scrap pieces to get the settings dialed in for the welder.

1362810501742_zps54030518.jpg

The Ireland perch is the unique portion of this kit as it functions as the perch and the coupler to put the strut pieces back together. "Slide" the 3" strut piece into the smaller diameter side of the perch. Seat it and put the threaded sleeve over the top and the strut gland nut. I tightened the gland nut to set the strut piece square in the perch with tension. (The threaded portion is square and pulls it into alignment).

1362811216037_zps788e743a.jpg

1362972162805_zps50cbb48f.jpg

Carefully remove the gland nut and sleeve exposing the squared strut piece and perch. Tack the small strut piece to the perch in 3 spots and check square. If its good, finish up your welds.

Slip the larger diameter of the perch over the lower strut tube. Use the strut insert with gland nut to square it to make sure the tube pieces are square. If so tack it in place with the insert in place. Remove insert and finish up the welds. This was one step I really liked about the Ireland kit...I had no need to fiddle with a copper tube to catch slag in the inside of the strut because there was no exposure to the welding. (BTW...if you are welding strut pieces together and need to protect from slag, just go get a piece of copper sheet flashing, roll it and slip it inside. It will try to unroll and snug against the inner diameter.)

1362891357900_zps0081a9b6.jpg

1363069898835_zps560f7fe2.jpg

That's that. Done. Ugly welds...no concerns about their strength. I'll paint them up and move on to the rear subframe.

Thanks for the time to explain it Jeremy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Adjustable rear subframe:

Thanks for the opinion Ken...eccentric version going on the car. Now that I have put this together I can see how much a PITA it would be to fiddle with the posi-lock design in tight space. This also rules out the car running under DS in VARA.

So the goal with the kit is to allow positive camber adjustment by raising the inner control arm, and adjusting toe by sliding the outer arm towards the front or rear of the car. Lowered racecars have too much negative camber...and benefit from toe adjustment.

The kit uses the existing control arm pickups, although they have to be modified. Starting with the inner arm pickup closest to the differential, we cut away some of the mounting tab turning a hole into a slot. Cut from the top. Use the Ireland slotted pieces as a template to determine how much to remove. It is not necessary to grind the bottom of the slot as you will never lower the arms further on a lowered car.

1363059653728_zps0b0653fe.jpg

SLOTS POINT UP!

1363059827903_zpsf67a28fd.jpg

The camber plates have a shoulder that allows them to rest on the tabs. Square these up and tack them in place. Do the same to the other side making sure the two camber plates are square to eachother.

1362972161765_zps5cfd0887.jpg

The toe plates go on the outer arm pickups. The slots on these are supposed to be aligned horizontally. Center the plates over the mounting hole and use a marker to highlight where to cut away. You will need to remove material past the hole to have full adjustability. Note in the pics I have the subframe turned upward to work on the piece.

1363063356742_zps8fbcebd8.jpg

Make sure everything is square and tack into place.

I used a 3"x3" metal tube to make sure the plate were square to eachother and in alignment with the previous bolting locations. I also like using vice-grips to hold in place rather than magnetic squares.

1363065235185_zps993a48f1.jpg

1363064854347_zpsdd63e96a.jpg

Before finishing up the welds I put the boxed arms onto the subframe to make sure everything fits. Bolts insert from the inside of the control arm...think about the subframe on the car and having to get a control arm off and you'll understand. Do it wrong and you get to drop the whole subrame later to get a arm off.

1363066669561_zps48fa6fdd.jpg

One of the arms shrunk a bit when I boxed it and it made for a snug fit. I might reposition the toe plates slightly to make the fit work a bit easier. I'll finish up the welds later this week and get it painted. I'll add a few more pictures later to show how everything looks when complete as I had trouble understanding the other posts I found. That way we will have yet another piece of info lost in the depths of the FAQ.

Once again, thanks to Jeremy for walking me though the process when I picked up the plates.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So thats where this went after the site change. Happy to report the project is almost done.....not the car, the project. I found a racer and grabbed it. Didn't save as much time as I wanted as it was full of goofiness, but still ahead of finishing the other car. I will get some pics up on that car and maybe get serious about letting go of the other racer collection soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok...first shot at pics since Steve updated the site.

 

So this is the Rubber Ducky Racer. While handing over cash at Ireland for the shorter Bilsteins on the other build, Jeremy showed me pics of this car for sale. I brought it back 3 days later from Bakersfield. With the new daughter in the house, I really feel like I bought time with her, which was money well spent.

 

post-41150-0-56671800-1394938491_thumb.j

 

The motor had been worked on...Ken and Tom opened it up and sure enough there were some big pistons. I'll have to dig those pics out to show everyone and example of "systematic error" by pointing out the excellent consistency with which all 4 pistons hit the head. I was happy to pay Ken, once again for time with my daughter, to go through the car a bit.

 

post-41150-0-09152200-1394938511_thumb.j

 

Ever seen a 3 quart Accusump? What kind of failure are we gearing up for here? Accusump is already out and one of Ken's trapdoor pans went in to keep the motor oiled in the turns. Anyone want to buy a 3 quart Accusump? The MSD box is a great example of where not to mount electronics. Lots of vibration in the floor pans and that happens to be right above the rumbling 3" exhaust. I still need to move that up to the firewall. "My Spark Disapeared"...thats what Ken said MSD stood for...ha ha.

post-41150-0-92917400-1394938528_thumb.j

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.