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Orusty2

clutch master how to solo

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Put a new clutch master in tonight and figured i would share my method of holding the bolts if your doing this by yourself

Also will include basic instruction

Jack the front of the car up be safe use jackstands

Remove lines on clutch master loosen the nut on the front line carefully (closest to front of car)

Pull upward on rear metal line or plastic hose for late cars it will pop out of the rubber grommet

Pull carpet back from pedal box area there are teo 13mm bols that hold it to the pedal box and one 17mm nut holding it to the pedal

Remove the lower 13mm bolt using a 13mm socket and a long extension using a small vice grip clamp the extension to the brake pedal

Get under the car and loosen the lower nut with a13mm wrench - use safet glasses here or be prepared to rinse the 30 year old burning crud out of your eyes like i did

For the top bolt i couldnt get a wrench on the nut and had left most of my tools at work i used a pair of small needle nose vice grips on the nut they will rest against the. Cylinder preventing the nut from spinning and loosen the bolt from inside with a socket wrench

Remove the 17 mm nut on the pedal and pop the bolt out

Remove the clutch master

Now reverse and bleed

Hope this helps feel free to add anything to it

Photobucket

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Guest Anonymous

thnkn

lke

a

german

bravo!

sorry

keyboard

gotflooded

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If you continue your lonely streak, you can cut an access hole to bleed your clutch by yourself, too.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,269226/highlight,access+hole/

*I'm not sure I'd do this to my current car (maybe I'd just drill a hole and use a nice-looking hole-plug), but the `70 that I had was a rusty POS and I felt like taking a chance.

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before installing the new M/C, check to see if a socket will go on the nut without fouling the M/C body. If there's not enough clearance, grind a bit off the M/C casting (it's plenty thick, you only need a few mm) so you can use a socket wrench on the nut to tighten.

And if you're gonna keep the car for awhile, use stainless steel bolts and nuts so they'll come right off the next time you have to replace the M/C...and there will be a next time!

cheers

mike

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If you use stainless fasteners (I recommend against it. A) Many are not grade 8 strength!) and B) Make SURE you use plenty of anti-seize between the nut and bolt! Stainless has an infuriating habit of galling during installation and then requiring quite a bit of effort to cut / remove the stripped rock hard stainless bits away from one another.

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Speaking of stainless, Blunt has a great deal on a stainless line from the master to slave cylinder, i ordered the slave and the line from blunt along with a gaggle of other parts for the tii

For lonely bleeding (lol)i recommend pumping the pedal up and then wedging a baseball bat in between the pedal and drivers seat and the crack the bleeder

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