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Gas Gauge


Guest Anonymous
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Guest Anonymous

For a while my Gas Gauge would get stuck, pinned at full, if I knocked the gauge a few times usually it would fall down to where its supposed to be but lately no luck. Im guessing its a loose connection, or, its the gauge (which i have a replacement for in the case it is).

Do I need to take off the whole damn dash to get to the connection on the gas gauge?

on a limb, do you think it could be the sender's ground thats getting it stuck up high? (I moved it today so I thought that that might be it).

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Guest Anonymous

URL: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=jumpy+gauges+bmw+2002&btnG=Google+Search

Check your grounds. ;p

The instrument panel comes out quite easily. You should add a pigtail ground wire to the back of the panel. There's a writeup on it here somewhere. The same bad grounds at the instrument panel can affect the temperature gauge.

Do a search for jumpy gauges and see what comes up. Or look at the link. Google is your friend. ;p

Also check the sender ground at the tank. And all others for that matter. Battery, wiring harness, etc.

Cheers,

Ray

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Guest Anonymous

have already checked grounds at gauge and sender, the fuse and the sender itself. Temp gauge is rock steady. Next step: swap out the gas gauge and see what happens. Any other suggestions for things I might have overlooked?

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

I did pull the sender and carefully ran the float up and down its resistance wires with the sender hooked up to an ohmeter. It worked just fine--no blips or jumps on the ohmeter. Guess I'll try one, then the other...

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

I put a clock in my tii and surprise, no power. The trace on the gauge PCB that supplies power for the clock had made itself into a fuse and melted. There's probably a loose connection on your gauge cluster somewhere.

With some effort, I was able to find the AMP connector socket that is used in the big round connector. Too bad I didn't write the part number down.... AMP will give you free samples if you say you're an engineer trying something out. It requires a special crimping tool, but I bet there's an electronics shop on WPAFB somewhere that can make it work for you. Those sockets are generally designed to be connected once or only a few times. After 30+ years, that limitation has been exceeded. I guess the engineers didn't reckon with people keeping these old cars alive so long.

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