Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

ISRGC Claims Another E30


ClayW

Recommended Posts

The previous owner told me that he installed a new starter less than a thousand miles before selling me the car. As it turns out, that new starter was of particularly low quality. I've put maybe 2000 miles on the car since buying it and the solenoid has been sticking more often than not. Don't get me wrong; it's a great security feature to have to tap the solenoid with a metal rod to get it to start, but I'll take my chances with the old "just turn the key" method.

So after reading that it's apparently easier to buy a new car than swap the starter on an E30, I set to work with mild trepidation. Honestly, it wasn't that difficult; I just removed the airbox, unfastened the heater core lines and set to work on loosening the bolts. I used a long extension with an electric impact.

Once I got the starter out, I took it apart and confirmed that the solenoid was sticky and un-lubricated. I probably could have polished the cylinder and lubed it up, but I had a good, used Bosch starter waiting to replace it. I'll take "good and used" over "new, cheap and unreliable". There's some good fatherly advice in that paragraph.

Given the awkward contortions required to tighten the male Torx-head starter bolts, I saw two options:

1. Obtain, raise and train a chimpanzee to hold the Torx socket in place while I tighten the 16mm nut on the other side, or

2. Replace the bolts with regular hex-head bolts.

Much to my chagrin and my wife's approval, I went with Option 2.

0413131618b_zps243caec8.jpg

Bolts in place:

0413131620_zpsfde98dd1.jpg

Starter bolted in:

0413131634_zps2e74848f.jpg

Ignoring my own advice from literally minutes previous, I swapped out the radiator with a new, cheaper unit that I had sitting around. In my defense, the old one was leaking and a radiator is a lot easier to swap out than a starter.

0413131832a_zpsfb6ce57c.jpg

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I needed a roof rack for hauling lumber, furniture and the occasional coffin, so I scoured the garage for parts. I bought a set of "Quick-N-Easy" roof rack feet and found a stick of 1" tube section steel in my garage. I've used the Quick-N-Easy roof rack feet before with success, so I knew that I'd be able to make them work for the E30.

 

I took some measurements and got to cutting and drilling.

 

M42010_zpsb0dfd5d5.jpg

 

M42012_zpsdda0696c.jpg

 

I had some hardware laying around for the connections. Those are CV joint bolts for a 2002.

 

M42013_zpsc72346df.jpg

 

Test fitting:

 

M42016_zpsae331245.jpg

 

Painted:

 

M42018_zps2b8944d0.jpg

 

I'll probably paint the feet black at some point. I also need to figure out a basket or some slats or something. For now, it'll hold lumber or a couch.

 

M42020_zps2180c7da.jpg

 

M42021_zpscc0342c1.jpg

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
A month ago, the seals blew out on the E30's power steering rack. I tried adding more fluid and even some transmission leak sealer, in the fleeting hopes that the mechanical angels would smile upon me and bathe my E30 in rays of leak-stopping grace. But alas, th clouds opened up and the message was delivered from on high (or at least from my wife); "Go forth and fix it yourself."
 
So I called Blunt.
 
E30SteeringRackSwap001_zps89b08b9d.jpg
 
Armed with a new Z3 power steering rack, a new steering U-joint, a bag full of random hardware and a vague concept of how this project would turn out, I set out to remove the forearm exercise machine that was my non-functional steering rack. 
 
E30SteeringRackSwap003_zps4a1511da.jpg
 
...and out:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap007_zps22fa958c.jpg
 
As you can see, leaving the motor in requires one to bend the lower tabs down to remove the rack. Reinstallation requires hammering them back up.
 
Obligatory comparison shot:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap010_zpsa75efc6f.jpg
 
Removal of the Z3 tie rods requires a 32mm wrench, which is the same size as the fan clutch nut. I used a bicycle head wrench
 
E30SteeringRackSwap011_zps7c77a792.jpg
 
Bare rack:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap014_zps6dfd4085.jpg
 
Since the mounts for the Z3 rack are a little shorter than the stock E30's, I needed these spacers from E30tech.com. These mount on top of the rack.
 
E30SteeringRackSwap015_zpsfe0a3798.jpg
 
With the E30 tie rods installed and the boots zip-tied on, the new rack was ready to go in.
 
E30SteeringRackSwap021_zps916fab35.jpg
 
I installed the new U-joint and bolted it up:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap030_zps1da67b1d.jpg
 
The new E36 high pressure hose was easy to install, but I ran into a problem with the low pressure return hose. As it turns out, the Z3 rack's hydraulic line attachment points are in a different place than they are on the E30 rack. The low pressure return hose wouldn't fit. So, I had to make a run to the scrapyard to salvage a banjo bolt fitting from an early E30. I found some power steering line at the local Autozone.
 
E30SteeringRackSwap025_zps1643adc0.jpg
 
All installed (looks like I need to make a new ground wire):
 
E30SteeringRackSwap035_zps459142da.jpg
 
Since my E30 came with an airbag, I had to grind out a bit of the firewall to allow for the slightly different angle of the steering column. There is a plate that bolts to the firewall that holds a boot, through which the steering shaft exits. First, I removed the lower steering column shaft.
 
E30SteeringRackSwap036_zpsd8d50e95.jpg
 
Then I ground out the firewall and fabricated a new boot-holding plate. I bolted that in place and pulled the boot through with a length of string, like you would with a windshield gasket.
 
E30SteeringRackSwap024_zps0f267176.jpg
 
An importance step here is to loosen the big nut on the lower steering column shaft, break the sliding mechanism free and lubricate it so it slides easily. This will allow for easier reinstallation. 
 
I then stuck the lower steering column shaft through the boot and bolted it to the lower u-joint assembly:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap038_zps5864faa5.jpg
 
Then I attached the upper U-joint to the upper column and steering wheel:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap047_zpsc13bbc04.jpg
 
Then I tightened the big nut to secure the column:
 
E30SteeringRackSwap045_zps7badfaf6.jpg
 
With the nose still in the air, I filled the reservoir with ATF and started the car. After seeing no leaks, I set the car down and took it for a drive. It's amazing how tight the steering is now. The quicker ratio is certainly noticeable and I no longer have the clunk of a failing U-joint. All is well.

 

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I got a little tired of having my cell phone charger wiggle loose in the European-sized 12V outlet in the console, so I decided to install some US-sized outlets. The rear ashtray looked like a good place to put them, since no one gets to smoke in my car.
 
I started with a piece of 1" X 1/16" aluminum angle. I made some measurements, cut some 7/8" holes, ground, filed and cut until it looked like this.
 
Spare12V004_zps0faccab4.jpg
 
The notched out section fits into the cigarette-holder piece in the ashtray.
 
Next, I wired up the outlets and epoxied them into place. I got these from a 12V splitter that I bought for a few bucks. 
 
Spare12V008_zpse3876cec.jpg
 
After running power from the other outlet, I installed the unit. 
 
0624130907b_zps16cd5508.jpg
 
0624130907a_zps58b997c3.jpg
 
0624130908_zps8ebd5d42.jpg
 
Total project cost: Less than $10. I may add a USB port or two, but this will work for now. The little light in the ashtray works, too.

 

Edited by ClayW

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice.

 

i just bought one of the premade three outlet deals from auto parts store and mounted it to underdash panel.  ran power for it to the spare switched fuse next to fuse box in engine bay.  simple.  cheaper than yours... ;)

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Well, this sucks. I hit a poorly graded manhole in a construction zone. The oil pan is cracked and the weeks-old Z3 rack has a chunk taken out of it. The State of Maryland has a claims process for this kind of thing....we'll see how it goes.
 
0723131730a.jpg
 
0723131730.jpg
 
0724131955b.jpg

 

UPDATE: I just got word from the insurance company that they will be paying for the repairs and not totaling the car. All I had to do was convince them that I shut the car off before the oil drained out.

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
After convincing my insurance company that the E30 wasn't totaled, I set to work on replacing the oil pan. Thankfully, I had a spare pan on my spare motor, so I saved myself a trip to the salvage yard.

 

Cleaned up spare oil pan:

 

0810131619.jpg

 

After jacking the car up and securing it, I removed the flywheel cover and the forward motion limiter. There are four bolts that require an E10 female socket in addition to the four M8 bolts on the bottom. Apparently, the Bavarians didn't want this thing to fall off.

 

0810131651a.jpg

 

0810131651.jpg

 

One of the star bolts required a strange articulation of a few universal joints and a 3" extension.

 

0810131655.jpg

 

After removing that and as many oil pan bolts as I could reach, I unbolted the engine mounts and hoisted the engine ever so slightly.

 

 

0810131738.jpg

 

I also discovered this broken motor mount. To the spare parts bin!

 

*Side Note/Tip: Use discarded carpets and/or rugs for lay on when working on your car. They're a lot more comfortable than the concrete and you can just throw them away when they get too dirty. I just grab them when I see them after the neighbors' home renovations.

 

All jacked up with the oil pan and pump removed. You can either remove the oil pump and drop it into the pan to remove it, or you can drop the power steering rack. Since I'm waiting on a back-ordered rack, I chose to remove the pump.

 

0810131749.jpg

 

Cleaned up pan with a new gasket and the oil pump inside.

 

0810131831.jpg

 

I also took the opportunity to make a replacement grounding cable.

 

0810131707.jpg

 

0810131708.jpg

 

All bolted up. I'd apologize for the lack of cleanliness, but it's the underside of my car.

 

0810132104.jpg

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought and installed the LED trunk light kit from R3vlimited user mcskibadee1. Installation took all of three minutes and now I can see what's in the trunk. $18 well spent.

 

Before: Single lens with an incandescent bulb.

 

0812131904a.jpg

 

Install requires a pair of pliers and a flathead screwdriver to pop the light out.

 

0812131906.jpg

 

After: Two LED trunk lights. Much Brighter!

 

0812131908.jpg

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One more detail job: I previously built my own cheap digital voltmeter. It was a little bright and the finish wasn't quite right. So, I took it out and repainted the bezel in flat black. I also added a layer of transparent, self-adhesive red film to darken the display a little. I might go with one more layer, but it already looks a lot better.

 

Before:

 

0408130910_zps7190155f.jpg

 

After:

 

0813131721a.jpg

 

0813131721.jpg

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...