Jump to content
sking

What to do next...

11 posts / 863 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a little money kicking around...actually not much at all, but I think it's enough to start working on my 02. Here is a synopsis of the bad that needs attention. My budget $2000.00.

The red car:

Great driver, 94000 miles, but i see a puff of smoke once in a while. It happens on the highway throttling down in 4th gear at 4500 rpm. So basically, if I stay away from those conditions, no puffs. Fuel filter cloggs and prevents starting about every 700 miles or so. Change the filter, and she's good to go. Car came with new spare Nos tank, suspicious....maybe grime is from old tank deteriorating?

Never checked compression.

Front suspension bangs extremely hard on the smallest of bumps (front left). The right is not as bad.

The doors don't shut completely. It sees like they get half way locked in, then I can push them in more, but it doesn't catch. The latch seems to be in the right position though. Also, the bottom corners of the doors stick out more than the top, very odd.

Wish list:

Suspension / chassis mods to get a nice lowered stance and reduce body roll and increase stability

Engine mods to boost HP, really want dual webers

Non-flare turbo air dam (can't find one, but have seen them on here)

Open to all suggestions of what to spend where.....

Thanks all!

Shenton

Red car suspension:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FIX BEFORE YOU MODIFY. Modifications will only complicate things, not help them.

The burning oil is the valve seals. It will only get worse in time. Take some of the money and have the head reconditioned, including valve guides with new seals, new valves with a good valve job, valve springs, and while you are in there regrind your cam to 292 duration or similar. Fix this. Replace timing chain, guides, and gaskets while you are in there as preventive maintenance.

The door problem is likely the little plastic bit that attaches to the door... cheap easy worthwhile fix. Fix this also.

The banging front is probably the bushings... replace all of them. do the rear also. Polyurethane is a nice upgrade but makes the ride a bit harsher; pick and choose where to put rubber and where to put polyurethane. No point in upgrading shocks and springs on worn bushings.

Start with this, and install a wide band fuel reader in the exhaust and tune your carb to be spot on... with the new cam and a good ignition (take 150 bucks and buy a pertronix!) the perfect fueling will wake the motor up.

Clean out the tank. Disconnect it and drain it; bet you there is rust in there. Replace the lines while you are at it. all of them if you can. With the tank off clean out the rust and fill it with some kind of rust inhibitor and a ton of sheet metal screws. Shake them all around to help break off the rust and grime from the tank. repeat until clean.

FIX THE PROBLEMS, THEN MODIFY.

as far as suspension goes, you should still have a bit left in your budget for some shocks and springs. Bilstein HD's are nice for the street with a minor drop. Anti Sway bars are an EXTREMELY good investment as well. Don't try to build a track car for the street... build a STREET car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that! Exactly the type of advice I was looking for!

Forgot one thing....

Sometimes when I have 1 or 2 people in the car I hear a very high pitch squel / squeek that intermittently winds up with increasing speed in 1st and 2nd gear. I feel like its louder when I am accelerating through those gears out of a corner.

This sound is so light and and almost unnoticeable, it almost sound like a star trek laser gun sound effect..... Or a car from the jetsons with its high pitch putter motor! I know it sounds stupid, but that's the only way I can describe it.

Any thoughts on this one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to say... is it present in 3rd and 4th? or just 1st and 2nd.

The additional weight being a factor makes me think something to do with the driveline... possibly a worn bearing? 1st and 2nd makes me think that as you accelerate the compression of the rear shocks changing the angle of driveshaft to the diff is making the squeel....

OR possibly the engine fan contacting the radiator, although I'm not sure how the additional weight would make this happen more often.

Either way, you SERIOUSLY have to get under the car and replace all the bushings and give it a general cleanup. Once under there you will find more things wrong for sure, and the best advice I can give is to fix everything under the car before you start doing other work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks,

I've heard it in 3rd, but i think it's relative to the amount pressure put on the rear suspension.

For instance, the harder I take off from stand still in 1st, or how hard i lay it down in second from rolling speeds, the louder it is. When shifting from 3rd to 4th, I guess it doesn't happen because the rear is not under as much pressure as a stand still or rolling start.

I'm definitely going to take your advice and replace all the bushings etc...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks,

I've heard it in 3rd, but i think it's relative to the amount pressure put on the rear suspension.

For instance, the harder I take off from stand still in 1st, or how hard i lay it down in second from rolling speeds, the louder it is. When shifting from 3rd to 4th, I guess it doesn't happen because the rear is not under as much pressure as a stand still or rolling start.

I'm definitely going to take your advice and replace all the bushings etc...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, the big bumpers are certainly hideous and from personal experience I can tell you the small chrome bumpers are actually functional as well. My take on it is:

- no bumpers: this is just stupid. It looks bad and it's asking for trouble... the front clip and rear are expensive to fix, don't do this.

- "tucked" bumpers: this still looks terrible but now is barely functional too, in fact you basically just built a way to punch the car harder. Don't do this.

- conversion to chrome bumpers: looks awesome, less weight, basically restores your car to how BMW designed it, and is functional. If you're patient you will find the full set of bumpers used soon enough for pretty cheap, there are a lot of them out there. Those front brackets make life easier too, I got to see them in person, good stuff. The rear is quite easy as others have told you.

- or just leave it all alone and save money. Personally the big bumpers would drive me nuts but if they don't bother you, good! If it ain't broke don't fix it : )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Front suspension bangs extremely hard on the smallest of bumps (front left). The right is not as bad.

If you have Bilsteins, take them out, turn them upside down, and

compress them a few times.

The water will bleed out, and the banging will subside. For a while...

Then you'll get to do it again.

Fatal flaw in an otherwise neat idea, I think.

And then get your gas tank boiled out or changed.

Then do a mechanical check on your motor- the oil at 4500 is

darned near normal operation, IF the compression's even and

leakdown is good. Yes, you could change the valve stem seals,

but I'd only do it if there was another reason to pull the head.

5- speed's always high on my list, as is that 3.91 LSD. I think it's

probably one of the best 'bang for the buck' mods you can do

for general drivability and fun.

Then a 38/38- yes, sidedrafts are sexy, but for go without cam and

exhaust, the 38/38 is a big kick in the pants for drivability.

I don't think it's all that much faster (neither are sidedrafts) but

its F U N !

that's probably most of your budget.

Oh, and spend the $2.29 on the little rubber pads that go on the tips of the door latches.

That'll solve your door closing issues. The twist is a sign that your doors were

replaced in the 90's- BMW made a BILLION of them, and they were all

warped. There's a procedure to straighten them, but it's cut- and- weld.

hth

t

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The center carrier bearing on the drive shaft has a dust cover. Its a circular piece of metal that looks like a big washer. The shaft itself passes though the middle of it.

Its on the side facing the engine and is press fit into the front of the metal cylinder that holds the bearing. I once had the dust cover come loose from its press fit. It remained in place, but under certain conditions would move just a bit and would rub the driveshaft. It made a sound like I think you are describing. I solved it by pushing it back into correct allignment and then using a chisel and hammer to make a small indent

on either side of the metal ring it fit into. That restored the press fit and it stopped singing to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Front suspension bangs extremely hard on the smallest of bumps (front left). The right is not as bad.

If you have Bilsteins, take them out, turn them upside down, and

compress them a few times.

The water will bleed out, and the banging will subside. For a while...

Then you'll get to do it again.

Fatal flaw in an otherwise neat idea, I think.

And then get your gas tank boiled out or changed.

Then do a mechanical check on your motor- the oil at 4500 is

darned near normal operation, IF the compression's even and

leakdown is good. Yes, you could change the valve stem seals,

but I'd only do it if there was another reason to pull the head.

5- speed's always high on my list, as is that 3.91 LSD. I think it's

probably one of the best 'bang for the buck' mods you can do

for general drivability and fun.

Then a 38/38- yes, sidedrafts are sexy, but for go without cam and

exhaust, the 38/38 is a big kick in the pants for drivability.

I don't think it's all that much faster (neither are sidedrafts) but

its F U N !

that's probably most of your budget.

Oh, and spend the $2.29 on the little rubber pads that go on the tips of the door latches.

That'll solve your door closing issues. The twist is a sign that your doors were

replaced in the 90's- BMW made a BILLION of them, and they were all

warped. There's a procedure to straighten them, but it's cut- and- weld.

hth

t

I'm w/T,

Get the 38/38. If you need one lmk. You WILL feel a huge difference, that is well worth it.

Get under your car w/a light and have a good look see. Then get an idea of what looks bad/good/needs replaced.

Get someone who can help you tune the car up so you get it running right. It's so much better to get a car running right vs. spending a boat load and not getting the results you are after.

Enjoy!

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.