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Stevenc22

1976 - Removing Emissions Equipment

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Okay im current redoing the studs on the exhaust manifold and now have just decided to remove all emissions equipment, switch to a tii manifold and go from there. I'm in Texas so I don't have to worry about passing emissions.

In the diagram below. I'm going to remove all mechanical items with the red line on it.

27yyd95.jpg

The block off plate sold by this site, its that to block off where the EGR value connects to the intake manifold?

What do I do with the red electromagnetic vacuum lines? Plug them? If so where, on the value or after it meets the control valve?

Any wiring I need to do?

By the way I have search the forum and there are lots of half information, and no real full step by step which surprised me.

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Best way to solve the problem is, in addition to the tii exhaust manifold, replace the Solex carb with a Weber 32/36 or 38/38 (I prefer the 38), and replace the vacuum advance/retard distributor with a mechanical advance distributor and electronic ignition. Ireland Engineering makes a nice one, ready to go, very reasonable price; and easier than trying to locate a vintage tii distributor. Your dwell will always be perfectly set, which is nearly impossible with points.

I did all this with my CA '76 (now located in Seattle). It runs very very well. I did all the work myself, except for the distributor installation. I had a local pro do that. He also did a wide band tune on the Weber, and dialed it in perfectly.

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Can the egr gas filter be removed with the intake manifold in place???

Yes. When I removed mine, I was removing my intake manifold at the same time (having it ported to fit the weber 38/38). I didn't think I could access the intake manifold nuts on the underside with the egr thing in place.

Remove your alternator, and slide it out the front. It can be a bitch.

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Im running a new weber 32/36. I would like to stick to the vacuum distributer for now since its pretty much brand new.

Any thoughts on how I should plumb the new vacuum setup would be helpful. Do I need the control box still? What should I cap?

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Can the egr gas filter be removed with the intake manifold in place???

Yes. When I removed mine, I was removing my intake manifold at the same time (having it ported to fit the weber 38/38). I didn't think I could access the intake manifold nuts on the underside with the egr thing in place.

Remove your alternator, and slide it out the front. It can be a bitch.

I was afraid you were going to say that :)

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manifold (there are two in your diagram) make VERY sure you plug the ports thoroughly--you don't want 'em to leak. If they do, you'll have a very bad idle and worse, a lean running cylinder that will eventually burn through your head gasket. I learned this the hard way--a plug that looked airtight wasn't.

You'll also discover that the electrical wiring for all that emissions stuff is a separate harness from the car's main wiring harness, so once it's all unplugged, it comes right out intact--no cutting or taping necessary.

Don't throw the stuff away, though. Some poor soul in California might need it to pass emissions there.

cheers

mike

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With the emissions equipment removed, how do i run the vacuum lines? Do i need to rewire the black electromagnetic valve at all? Are the white and red electromagnetic valves just completely capped now?

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When I disconnected the EGR valve on my '74, I took off all the vacuum lines. Then I ran a hose from intake mainfold (right below the carb) to the vacuum retard on the distributor. I then put rubber caps on all the other vacuum ports on the intake mainfold and two on the Weber. The electromagnetic valves and control valve are no longer needed.

I believe the blocking plate goes on the manifold where the EGR valve use to connected. I have not removed my EGR valve yet but the valve itself should be closed.

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You can remove the smog harness and associated parts completely, but cut open the harness and remove the resistor wire that feeds the coil voltage. Run it from fuse #12 under the fuse box back over to the coil positive, and you're golden on the electric part of the surgery.

That'll let you get rid of all this unnecessary underhood clutter. IMG_1229.jpg

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If you can....it is also a Good time to put the battery in the trunk. Really cleans up the engine bay.

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If you have a distributor with just a vacuum advance and a weber, you will want to find the port on the weber that only draws vacuum when you depress the throttle. In other words, a metered vacuum (the intake manifold vacuum ports have a constant vacuum). If you use any other, then the distributor will have a constant advance.

Truthfully though, the vacuum advance doesn't do too much in terms of overall performance, but will make a difference in partial throttle operation (helps with light throttle fuel milage especially).

Plug all the other vacuum lines and you are golden. You will probably have to adjust the ignition timing (while you have the dist. loose, advance it a few degrees from stock and enjoy the additional power!) and possibly even fiddle with the carb a bit to get everything back to perfect.

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The 76 has a distributer with a advance and a retard. Do I leave the retard unhooked on the distributer?

Where do I run the advance to? We have a few candidates. The vacuum on the manifold under the carb?.

Plug all other vacuum nipples including the one on the fuel return?

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The 76 has a distributer with a advance and a retard. Do I leave the retard unhooked on the distributer?

Where do I run the advance to? We have a few candidates. The vacuum on the manifold under the carb?.

Plug all other vacuum nipples including the one on the fuel return?

Someone correct me if im wrong, but leave the retard disconnected. Connect the vacuum advance to the port ON THE CARB. Then plug all other vacuum lines.

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