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farmorejustin

automatic issues... engine or tranny

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hey everyone. i hope one of you guys can help me, but somehow i feel this isn't common. see if you've ever heard of this. I spoke to Bob about this over email, but he hadn't heard of this.

So I rebuilt my 32/36 dgav just a few weeks ago (and thought it wasn't working, but it turns out I a wire came loose under the fuse box!!), replaced my spark plugs and wires, replaced my points, condenser, rotor and cap checked timing, dwell and valves, and was getting to do my idle mixture, but my engine won't stop idling all over the place.

I turn the speed screw down to about 800 and it will drop anywhere from 500 all the way up to 1000 in Park and Neutral. I turned the mixture screw up and down, but it will just drop even farther and not even out.

I read in the manual the tranny will surge if there isn't enough fluid, but the fluid is 3/4 up to the limit mark (not over)

The reason I think it's my transmission is because ever since I bought it, shifting into selector gears will jolt the car abruptly (much like letting out the clutch too fast on a manual, violently shaking the occupants). Shifting while cruising in drive and 2nd is smooth and perfect between 1 & 2 (& 3), but getting into Drive, Reverse, or 1st gives that shake. Reverse is not quite as bad as Drive though. In gear, the idle is still variable, though lower rpm.

I'm thinking it possibly could be something wrong with torque converter or clutch inside? I don't know anything about these, but maybe you guys do? They're NLA, but someone here have one maybe?

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Sounds like vacume leak to me invest in a can of carb cleaner and spray.around the base of the carb also check.for leaks.around the brake booster air leaks wil always cause irractic idle.

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on my stick shift '69--idle all over the place--and the problem turned out to be a hole in the dizzy's vacuum advance unit. To check, pull off the vacuum advance hose at the carb end (make sure the hose isn't cracked or broken) and suck on the hose. You should feel resistance, and with the cap off, see the point plate move. If there's no resistance, then the vacuum advance unit is shot.

If that checks out, use carb cleaner spray or an unlit propane torch to find a loose gasket or other vacuum leak.

cheers

mike

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Well I did already use starting fluid to check for manifold/carb base leaks and resolved those and now I just remembered everything was working fine until I rebuilt the carb :( Now I think I did a good job rebuilding it, but now I don't think so since it's been such a headache since.

Wrong place to ask, but anybody have any Solex's or 32/36s for sale cheapish? I don't have the stock air cleaner though, so I'd need one of those if a Solex....

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the clunk engagement into 1st or reverse is a worn clutch pack

with escessive clearances inside - rebuild time

but double check inspect the condition of your

driveshaft guibo !

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Solex--the vacuum secondary capsule is NLA, and the chokes never did work properly after a few years' wear. That's why people went to using the Weber.

I have several old Solexes and can probably come up with an air cleaner, but if it were me, I'd keep messing with the Weber. Whatever you did can't be that bad...and didja check the dizzy's vacuum advance?

cheers

mike

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Hmm...did not know that about the Solex's...thanks for cluing me in. I'll just rebuild again I guess....I will look around for new throttle and choke plates... any recommended sources, mike? I shined a light over the barrels (without the choke plates) and saw a peek of it with the throttle plates closed...normal wear I suppose...

Thank you c.d. for letting me know about that clutch. I haven't the slightest idea how automagics work, but I'll live with it now until I ship it off to be rebuilt somwhere (where? Bob probably knows...)

I'll keep messing with it, but thank you everyone for the responses.

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There are a couple right at the carb base--one on the carb itself and one in the manifold. If they're not in use, make sure they'e plugged firmly. There's another on the #4 intake runner that should be plugged.

Also, make sure the hose that supplies vacuum to the brake booster isn't leaking. They are pretty rugged hoses, but especially the short one between the manifold and the check valve can crack with age and because it's always bent. If it's bad, replace with the hose from an E21 320; it's moulded with a bend in it so there's no stress.

And make real sure the idle jets and their passages are squeaky clean. The jets themselves are so small it doesn't take much to plug one up.

cheers

mike

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