Jump to content
CharlestonFrech

Master/Slave Cylinder or Clutch Issue

10 posts / 3562 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

My car is a 1974 2002tii. Factory 4 spd. transmission. Driving today and found it very difficult to get the into a gear and once I could get it into gear to start off, after some grinding upon getting it into gear, it was very difficult to shift up through the gears. After pumping the clutch a few times it became much easier to shift and I went along without problem. Only to arrive at my first traffic light to find it once again very difficult to downshift, and once in neutral, found it very difficult to get back into 1st gear. at the next light, went to put in the clutch and found nearly NO clutch pressure upon pressing the pedal. Threw it in neutral and coasted into a gas station parking lot.

I can pump the clutch (20-30 times) and achieve a small amount of pressure but nothing is sustained.

I spoke to the guys over at Blunttech, which have been VERY helpful in the past with other issues on other cars and they believe it could be a master or slave cylinder, or possibly the clutch.

Can anyone shed some light on my situation or give me some tips on what/how I could check anything to try to diagnose the problem?

Thanks In Advance!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

There is air in the line from masrer to slave, or fluid leaking past the seals in the master. You can start by bleeding the line, but odds are you will replace the master cylinder. Might as well do the slave at the same time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 to what Bill said. I would definitely replace the master and slave together. Might want to check the flexible hose too. All pretty cheap but worth doing right.

I bet the fluid is as black as night too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1. Poke a pencil, wood coffee stirrer or popsicle stick down into the pedal bucket. If it comes up wet, your clutch M/C is leaking.

2. Crawl under the car and pull the boot back on the slave cylinder (where the pushrod emerges). If it's wet behind the boot, the slave cylinder is bad.

3. While you're under the car, check both the rigid feed line to the M/C and the flexible line that connects the M/C with the slave cyl to make sure neither are leaking.

As was said before, if one has gone bad, replacing it will make the other the weak link and it'll fail sooner. Do 'em both, especially if you don't know when they were last done.

cheers, and happy troubleshooting.

mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help guys!

So assuming the clutch master and slave cylinder is the problem, how much of an undertaking is it to do myself once I have the parts, or is this something that I should have a shop take care of for me?

I've looked in a Haynes Service Manual for Master and Slave Cylinder replacement and there is a section that walks you through the repair, just would like to get a better feel of difficulty and time involved.

Once again, thanks for the help so far!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

clutch M/C and slave cylinder replacement with a few tricks of the trade. Drop me an e-mail and I'll send you a copy.

mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.