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I worked as a service writer than manager for BMW for approx 10 years but have been out of the picture for a long time. My question is weather a 1976 2002 with no a/c, no sunroof, possibly no wheels, body damage (all done by yard, boo!), no title, and manual trans. (now sitting in r/f seat with drive shaft), is worth $300. I was on the search for some 1986 VW Cabriolet parts when I spotted it stacked on top of other cars next to the crusher. Looked at it briefly in bewilderment because I just don't see these now that I've been living in NW Montana for the last 9 years. As with most MT cars this vehicle is basically rust free and it looks to be 100% stock. I know the engine is not locked up, and the car is fairly complete otherwise, but it needs a lot of everything. The title doesn't concern me too much. The dent behind r/f door large but shallow to the point a lot of it would just pop out. R/f edge of door and rear fender edge of r/f fender are bent in slightly but enough they do not allow door to open. Hood had small dent at emblem area. Possibly worst damage is r/f fender front corner at signal. This kills me because it was done the day after I originally found it. Any opinions would be appreciated.

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Guest Anonymous

do what ya gotta do but dont let this one get crushed, rust free o2s are rarer than hens teeth and need to be preserved, give me a call for a talk, curious what the build date is?

Dave Miller 530 678 3505

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Worth it. Save her! Throw some steel wheels on it for now to roll it out, and many of us have stuff to help you out when/if you get it. Steel wheels, 4 speed transmissions, driveshafts, m10 engines, body panels and interiors are all laying around in our spare parts bins from upgrades to our cars and parts cars. That's better than a parts car! Show us the shock towers, however. Otherwise looks like a good start!

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Thanks for all the input. Going this am to check her out again and possibly pay for her. Things I didn't check out of excitement was mileage, not that it matters much, and weather they already poked a hole in the fuel tank or oil pan to drain it.

I found a 1986 325ES on CS here for $500 that's missing front bumper, fenders, and tail lights. The only reason to consider buying it would be for 2002 parts and I would of course try and get it for less. Clutch is said to be shot. Has aftermarket wheels and OEM Recaro style seats. I'm thinking the wheels should work if not too crazy big. Would the seats swap with little modification? What if any other parts would be beneficial toward a 2002 if any?

http://kalispell.craigslist.org/cto/3262063409.html

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The E30 looks like it has aftermarket rims, and there are no pictures of the interior. $500 seems like a lot for a not running car with a bad clutch and missing parts. I'd bid him a lot less for it, if he really needs it gone.

You could get it and part the rest of it out and possibly make a profit- But I don't believe a lot of 325es parts are going to be compatible with your 2002 unless you want to get into a really involved drivetrain swap.

An E21 320is 1981-83 is the best donor for a 2002, it has parts such as an M10 engine, 5 speed transmission, 3.91LSD differential, bigger drum brakes, Recaro seats, and different styles of rims that will go onto a 2002. This is a list of the things I know are compatible- I know people have managed to retrofit a whole interior into a 2002 from one before.

(Since there are already parts missing, and if you like those wheels, you could try to get just the seats and wheels from the guy for cheap?)

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shock towers are good. You can use either 13" E21 wheels or 14" from an E30 to get it back on its feet. I suspect that blue paint will even buff out pretty well (not the dents, though).

Grab it! If you decide you don't want it, someone from the NE or MW will want a nice, rust-free shell.

mike

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Went and made it mine this morning. Will try and bring it home tomorrow. Found all four OEM rims. Also found air cleaner top laying in the dirt about 40' away. David, gut is navy blue like you guessed, not black like I thought. Rear seat has black aftermarket cover on it, with poor lighting, dash being black, partial color blindness, and a weak mind it looked black. Rockers, towers, and spare tire area all rust free. Looks like carb may have been swapped with a weber.

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Wow! Mine has spent 36 years in a garage and I could only wish that it were as rust-free as this car appears to be. As Mike said, if a restoration doesn't happen, someone will want that shell!

Terrific find! Terrific save!

Regards,

Steve

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That's a damn straight body on that car, dear goodness. The shock towers and spare tire well look immaculate- an honest original 2002. Looks like someone was mid-clutch change and gave up for some reason, I spy with my little eye a shifter platform, transmission mount, shift fork, downpipe and throw out bearing in the trunk. They even gave you a new header to downpipe gasket! :)

Looks like it's still got smog equipment on it- Apparently Montana does not require smog or emissions testing, so once you put a transmission in remove all that crap!! (looks like it still even has the catalyst thingy)

It also looks like it has an aftermarket ignition box, but I could be wrong-that little black box by the distributor. Also it looks to have a new or rebuilt alternator recently due to the modern Bosch tag on it.

As for the seats, there's tons of navy blue seats around if you just look. Many people are upgrading to Recaros as you mentioned with that parts car earlier.

Really good start to your 02 journey! :) Looking forward to a project blog.

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Thanks for the kind words. Speedo shows a little over 60k but of course it could be 160k too! The find is half the fun.

The trans clutch will be the next thing to tackle. I'm told a repair shop went out of business and the car had been sitting in the leased shop. Land owner wanted everything gone when the shop disbanded and this salvage yard towed it away with no more interest in it then scrap $s. The clutch is still, or has been, bolted to the flywheel. The million dollar question is was it a clutch job or a internal trans problem? I guess I'll remove the clutch and if it's not at least 75% do it and then install the trans and see what happens. Short of disassembling the trans to see what it looks like or trying to spin it by hand and see if I can get it in to all it's gears I'm guessing it'll be a 50/50 shot. Just seems strange that if all it was in for was a clutch why they didn't finish the job and have a complete car again. The little research I've done makes the 4 speed out to be a pretty solid unit. I have read that the syncros for second gear can go.

One of the longer 10" straight brackets found in the trunk which has a single bolt hole in either end has one the eyes/holes torn. It can be seen in the trunk pic with a rubber grommet in the one end. I'm not sure what the part is for or if this sheds any light as to why the trans is out.

Now with the questions. Any good parts blow up or recommend shop manual for how the unit goes back together? Any quirks/items I should consider or no about when doing a clutch. I assume it would be disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and guibo? Any brands to stay away from or upgrades recommended? Maybe front and rear trans seals, rear engine seal, or slave cylinder (inside bell housing or out?)? Also shifter bushings or clutch master?

No emissions is not an issue in MT. I imagine I'll remove anything that's not necessary. If anyone has any insight as to what should be taken off, rerouted, or plugged of I'd appreciate this info as well. Also are the items removed valuable to someone in an emission state or are they trash?

Good eye on the details Collinster. I also picked up on the alternator sticker. The ignition box is a Crane or something so it and the carb so far are not oem.

Still has coolant in the radiator and oil on the dipstick.

Is there any reason a guy couldn't attempt to start the engine with the trans out? I know the exhaust is off and it's loose due to no rear support.

I need to let everyone know this will be a slow project without much more happening other than clean up and diag. probably till next year as a result of future weather, lack or shop space, and lack of that nasty green stuff along with too many other projects (ie. 1956 Alumacraft runabout, '48 dodge coe, '67 jeep wagoneer, '72 Honda CL350, and '86 VW Cabriolet) And my pesky job that takes up way too much play time. Thank the good Lord for an understanding wife!

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As for the carburetor, it was a very common upgrade for 2002 owners to put a weber 32/36 on there in place of the SOLEX 32/32- Yours (looking down the barrel from the picture I can see) still looks like the Solex. I could be wrong, it could be a Weber with the adapter or something. Why's it so bent?

When I picked up a new transmission for my 74, I spun it with a drill via the pilot bearing rod (I forget what it's called) at the end of the input shaft through all of the gears and listened for strange noises/made sure the output shaft spun in every gear, then I drained the oil and looked at the magnetic drain plug. This is a normal amount of filings.

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Emissions components are mostly trash, but don't toss them in the neighbor's pool yet- some people in Cali can use them (76s still have to pass smog there)

Replace the pilot bearing along with the stuff you mentioned when you do the clutch

.(Maybe front and rear trans seals, rear engine seal, or slave cylinder (inside bell housing or out?)? Also shifter bushings or clutch master? )

I started my engine with everything off of it to make sure it would run, but supported it so it would not smash the radiator. You might not want to do the same, it shook like a rabid dog with Alzheimers.

The slave cylinder is outside the transmission, it pushes and clips in to the side of the bell housing with the clutch fork sticking out. I put mine in with the transmission in the car already and wire holding the clutch fork on, tied around something. That took hours to align, but I was a 17 year old working on the garage floor on my back with a Harbor Freight transmission jack. The nice thing with the transmission is that once you're in you're in, just put the rest of the bolts in. It's an easy job on the 2002. :)

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