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32/36 Electric Choke dead?


rtheriaque

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Folks,

I've been having problems with my electric choke for quite some time. I disengaged it for the summer, but as it's getting colder now I need it again.

I've been through a few different install procedures, including an excellent YouTube video that's often referenced around here. I'm beginning to suspect that the electric choke itself has an issue.

I've verified that it at least "functions" and the wiring is correct. I've cleaned the connections, it's on switched 12V, and it heats up with the ignition on. It gets no power with the ignition off. So far, so good.

If I install it with any tension at all on the choke plates, however, the choke never opens. The video turns the choke counterclockwise to add tension to the plates.

The linkage moves freely and does not bind. I do see an adjustment screw on a cam on the linkage, but it's totally free and not in contact at all- is that part of my problem?

I'm an absolute idiot when it comes to these damn engineered fuel leaks, so any help is appreciated.

~Rob

'73 2002 Warmbold Rally Car Imitator

'89 325i Time Capsule

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Ugh... Forget that. I happened to have one in my stash and its operation is identical to the electric with a different heat source. I'd rather get the electric one working than mess with new water lines.

~Rob

'73 2002 Warmbold Rally Car Imitator

'89 325i Time Capsule

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When it heats up, it should turn. You can bench- test it

(carefully)

to see if that works.

I've had trouble with them grounding- they get ground through a tab

on the housing, maybe via a rivet (?) and that connection sometimes

doesn't make.

If it's getting hot but not turning, it's either bound up somehow or the

bimetallic strip's burnt up- and that seems pretty darned unlikely.

hth.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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