Restoring knee trim (or any other plastic or rubber parts)

[felix_666]

A quick guide to restoring the knee high trim. The same principals can be applied to any other bits of rubber or plastic - (plastic tends to need more attention)

Stock - some pieces are scratched, while some have that permanent watermark look.

I started with 600 grit wet/dry (use soapy water) on areas that were bad, then moved to 800, 1200, 1500. You could go further (2000 etc) but with rubber there isn't much point.

Then i used my dremel and some grey (or red if you prefer) cutting compund with a felt tip. If you have stone marks you could sand them out first and then buff it, but this will be a lot of work/time. I think the metal is stainless and it comes up pretty good, even with small pitting/stone marks.

Spray/rub in some plastic/rubber restorer and you're done.

The same principals can be used to polish the aluminium trim. If anyone is interested I can post up my findings on how to make aluminium look like this (does require a great deal more effort):

[Koblenz]

Are you using a clear coat?

[felix_666]

On the rubber? No, not needed, your product of choice will sort that out.

On the stainless? No, unnecessary again.

[Koblenz]

Sorry. I was referring to the aluminum trim.

[felix_666]

Not yet, I'm thinking I'll get it re-anodised as I've got a new set of waist trim coming, being pedantic, I don't want a miss match.

I spoke with some paint shops and they reckon you either leave it like it is and keep buffing it every now and then, or anodise it like original.

They don't recommend spraying it with a clear coat (such as the clear aluminium wheel stuff) as it needs something to bite to. I finished sanding the piece with 2000 grit, which is too smooth for any paint I know of. Yet you read of people who seemingly having success with this method, however, I would be really annoyed if the clear coat started peeling or something as this work is incredibly time consuming, hence why you pay a lot for people to do it.