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woohoo! got it started...


Guest Anonymous
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Guest Anonymous

And it runs NICE. I figured out my problem with the electric and finally got it to spark. After that I hooked it back up and 1 sec of cranking and this thing started right up into a VERY smooth idle. I dont have a throttle linkage on it yet so I hoped out and grabed the thorttle incase it started to die. I let it idle for 10-20 seconds and reved it a few times. After a little bog on the first shot it would accel and decel very smooth and with a very strong sound. After a few seconds of this it started to backfire out of the first barrel, so I jumped back in and shut it off. It's too dark to do any more work tonight, so I'm reading up on how to tune this webber tonight. Hopefully after a little more work tomorrow I can start putting the hood back on and getting this thing ready for it's first drive. :)

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Guest Anonymous

I didnt notice much fuel from my fuel leak (see post below), infact it was dry after I ran it some. Did the fuel burn off of the motor right away? Or did my fuel pump seals get relubed and start doing there job better?

Also I did have some coolant leak, but not that much. I'm gona leave it as is for now so I can tune the motor, then when I have new gaskets in hand I'll make the quick change.

I was hoping for a good sound, but damn! I hope the hood quites it down some cause as it is I wont even be able to drive it around my neighborhood ;).

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Guest Anonymous

I doubt that the fuel resealed itself. The gasket isn't a "swellable" type in the diaphram of the f.pump. also if it is leaking in the diaphram, it can/will get gas in your oil, and ruin your motor in no time (so fix it dammit :) ) The minor water leak can wait a little, but keep an eye on your temp and water level...

Congrats again, I know I still get a warm fuzzy when it actually works...

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Guest Anonymous

Do not try to tune this setup the way it is or you are going to get VERY frustrated. You must use NEW gaskets or you will have small leaks which means outside air will enter the manifold and lean things out. You must get new gaskets for your setup. If you need a set I will mail them out to you today if need be but please get some new gaskets! I was hoping you would not need to swap the gaskets (a real pain) but in your case you need to as you used the old ones.

Another thing to check once you have everything running is the vacuume that comes from the brake booster. Where the hose attaches to the booster (on the plastic elbow) there is a gasket there. Over time (30+ years is on yours I bet) those break apart and develop leaks. If you have a leak there, than once again air will enter your manifold and lean out cylinders 1 and 4 (the Lynx manifold keeps these 2 cyl together). Do a visual inspection of that gasket (I can give you the BMW part number if you need it) and replace it if needed. If you are unsure (and only for tuning purposes), I would block off the nipple going to the break booster (caution.. you now have weak brakes) tune the setup perfectly, and then connect the hose back to the booster and start driving. If you loose peformance/get leanness when you reconnect the booster hose, than you know that that gasket is bad. I believe that it costs $4 from the dealer so I would just replace it if it looks bad (my car actually did not have one as I suspect it broke/fell off when I changed to this manifold setup. The booster setup is supposed to be its own closed system and not to add air to the manifold. The manifold draws vacuume that pulls on the booster diaphram but if you have a leak in the system, the manifold will just be drawing outside air! By the way, to test your booster system, hold your foot on the brake, and then start the car. If the booster is working properly you will feel the brake pedal go further down. If it stays the same than the booster is not working properly. All air must enter the manifold via the carb as it needs to meter the correct amount of fuel for that air. No air must enter from anywhere else or else you will get leaness and a poorly running engine.

By the way, your noise issure has to do with the fact you are running the open velocity stacks (ram tubes) on your carb. Slap on an air filter and the sound will get controlled.

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Guest Anonymous

either you have bad gaskets (my opinion) or you have the timing advanced too much so that you are getting spark while the valve is still open (but you should get back firing out of both barrels). If you have a leak on your gaskets, you will get backfiring and it will sound like a machine gun as the overly lean condition will cause the combustion to pop instead of burn efficiently. You need to change those gaskets. As far as the booster gasket that I mentioned, that usually leans things at the cylinder such that when you pull off either cyl 1 or 4 spark plug wire, the engine will continue to run as when that plug wire was attached to the plug. I highly recommend that once you get things finallized, you start the car and 1 at a time remove the spark plug wire and see if the engine stumbles. Replace the wire and make sure the engine returns to normal. This will show you if every cylinder is working/contributing while your engine is running. After driving around for a couple of weeks I would then remove all the spark plugs and see that they tell you (burning lean, rich, perfect, etc).

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Guest Anonymous

gasket thing please. I'm gona order it today with my new manifold gaskets... Hopefully get them overnighted from phx and have them tomorrow.

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Guest Anonymous

Ok, here goes....

34 33 1 103 314 for the boosters up to '73 or so (and is what I think you have)

34 33 1 113 653 for the later boosters that are identicle to the 320i booster. You can ID this booster if you pull out the plastic elbow piece from the booster and it is just a smooth elbow that you pop in. On the earlier booster, you have to give it a quarter turn to remove the elbow.

I also believe you have the earlier type as your elbow is white and the later ones are black... I'm not sure if this is an exact science to name the booster by the color of the elbow but I think all the ones I have worked on fit this rule.

You can definitly know which booster you have if you look at the elbow and see how it mounts to the booster... either push in or turn it into the booster. Good luck. -Peter

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