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Chem dipping carbs for rebuild. What can and can't I do?


Guest Anonymous
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Guest Anonymous

I think i'm coming to the coclusion that I won't be able to get my DCOE's to idle below 2000, so I might have to go with the DCOM's that I got. I need to clean them up for a rebuild (he said I could put them on in the state they were in.....yeah right), and I don't want to have to take the spindle and butterflies out to do it. I was wondering if I left those in when I dipped the body in carb cleaner, would the cleaner mess up anything like the bearings or grease that is in them? Or is the only choice to take out the spindle?

I just don't want to take out the spindle because I think that is what caused the problem in my DCOE's

Thanks,

Bryan

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Guest Anonymous

when you reassembled your DCOE butterflies, did you get 'em back in the correct way? It's hard to tell, but the edges of the butterfly are slightly beveled (at least they are on downdraft Webers and Solexs, so I presume on sidedrafts too). If you get 'em in backwards they'll still fit but won't close properly and will eventually wear grooves in the carb throat.

If you wash out what little lubricant there is on the throttle butterflies, you can always re-lube with a little white grease.

Cheers

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

Why do you want to dip them? to soften up deposits, to get in areas that you can't get in easily? etc.

If you leave the carb(s) soaking in a chem dip to soften up the deposits, you run a higher chance of etching something you don't want etched.

If you are cleaning where you cant access, what makes you think that whatever is now swollen up in those passages is gonna come out anyway?

The best way that I have found for cleaning a carb especially if you are in the process of rebuilding it, is to use spray carb cleaner in a can. I put my carb in one of those plastic shoe boxes along w/a small glass bowel to hold carb cleaner for my toothbrush/q-tips. The little red straws fit into damn near all the holes and do a good job. and if you have to take a break, you can put the lid on the box to keep extra junk from getting in your carb bits. The plastic seems to hold up pretty well, at least mine hasn't gotten soft etc.

ps don't blame you for not wanting to take the butterfly assembly apart. It's usually not the cause of any greif unless the body is worn and you can clean it from the outside and inside, so why mess with it?

Good luck with it,

Britt

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Guest Anonymous

What do you mean by etched?? Also, you bought DCOM's right?? Have you put them on yet? Did you buy a DCOM rebuild kit for them or did you use a DCOE? I'm thinking of just transfering over from my DCOE's what I can.

Also, what are those vent tube things on the DCOM's that run horrizontal? Not too sure what to do about those. Just leave them or hook em up to something or what.

Thanks,

Bryan

red73

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Guest Anonymous

I'm running Dual Dellorto 40 DHLA's currently.

Did a recent rebuild on them.

By etched, I mean, if you leave your parts in the tank too long it will eat them. some parts faster than others, but had a friend (we'll call him bonehead) that left a carb conviently for a year in the gallon of cleaner, cleaned most of the carb to goo.

I'd definatly get the right rebuild kit for the carb/s that your gonna use. You may end up with a few extra washers etc, but at least you won't be left wanting any.

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