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Bolts between diff and driveshaft....HELP!!!


Guest Anonymous
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Guest Anonymous

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URL: http://www.zeebuck.com/02bc/index.htm

WTF? I've swapped 02 driveshafts before, but the one in my 76 does NOT want to leave it's current home. I'm replacing it with a good used because the rear U joint is bad, but I can't for the life of me, undo the goddamned bolts between the rear flange, and the diff! I've smashed 3 knuckles, and cracked a Snap-On wrench, not too mention the old people who live next door no longer think I'm a nice young man! The expletives flying from my garage are a little bit nasty. I've been fighting with this thing for over an hour. Any ideas?

Al

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Guest Anonymous

I had to grind the nuts of some of the bolts that connect the cv to the diff flange as they must have been poor quality & were easily stripped.

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Guest Anonymous

...get the US$20 worth of MAPP gas torch in the plumbing

section of Home Depot. Has worked wonders for me. I've

learned to use heat since having reconstructive ligament

hand surgery as a result of using brute force (breaker bar/

control arm bolt won)...

Tim

'76 2002

'03 Golf

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Guest Anonymous

Not sure if you're trying to do this with the driveshaft in situ, but if so, you can yank the diff and pull the whole thing out the back. Not a major job, everything usually comes out pretty easily. I had to do this a while back when replacing the diff for the same reason. Once out of the car, everything went very quickly.

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Guest Anonymous

I used a propane torch to heat up some of the pieces. They are kind of a pain to get to. I have dremeled similar parts off before as well if they are really stubborn and don't want to come off....

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Guest Anonymous

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URL: http://www.zeebuck.com/02bc/index.htm

I soaked everything in liquid wrench before I even started, and I've been working at it forever, but they just won't budge. All the nuts still have factory paint seal on them, so I don't think they've been undone for 27 years! I'll try some heat on them tomorrow if they still won't budge. I figured they were just seized, but I guess I had some hope that I had forgotten about some unusual 02 thing, and that this would be easy once you guys reminded me what it was! Wishful thinking....

Thanx,

Al

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Guest Anonymous

I use a very long 17 mm wrench that I found at Sears. I usually scrunch myself up under the car and put one of my feet against a rear tire and pull sharply on the nut. The wrench is almost a foot long and provides plenty of torque.

You can get even more torque by taking a combination 17 mm wrench and cutting off the open end. Then slide it into a nice sturdy cheater bar. I use one of these occasionally on stubborn drive flange nuts. I use a 19mm on head bolts.

Of course my experience has been with my So.Cal. car and the junkyards. I probably do not know what rust is all about.

I do think that leverage is your answer ...

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Guest Anonymous

put a boxend wrench on the nuts holding the driveshaft bolts in place. turn the driveshaft until the wrench bumps up against the body of the car and then turn the driveshaft with a pipewrench. if you are worried about the body put a piece of wood in between the wrench and body. works every time.

hardest part is figuring out the correct way to turn the shaft to make the nuts come loose vs. tightening.

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Guest Anonymous

You can't use the torch in some areas of the car due to it's 'tendency' of discoloring paint or setting things on fire, but under the car in that area: flame on! Heat the piss out of those fasteners. Zap it with penetrating oil while it's hot...and you'll probably be able to turn them by hand when you're done.

works everytime on the boats...

-s

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