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update on lynx/45dcoe work with pics and more questions...


Guest Anonymous
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Guest Anonymous

I know some of you are currently doing the same thing I am. It's hard to find any info about the specifics so I figure I'll post my personal experience so far.

Started off with an old beat up 76. Broken exhaust manifold, many MANY other problems. Stripped spark plug hole, missing/broken smog equip, lots of grime and missing bolts/nuts, just to name a few of the problems.

First I pulled everything I was going to replace/work on and I painted the engine bay flat black. I looked at a bunch of pics online and the flat black engine bays looked the cleanest in my opinion, so I covered up the red paint which was chiping away and showing the stock blue. Also while I had everything out I tried to do a quick clean up job because there was a lot of oil/grime. Also re-wraped all the wires and redid a lot of electrical stuff.

enginepost.jpg

Got a used stock exhaust manifold, painted it flat black to match engine bay with high temp engine paint.

exhaustmani.jpg

Next problem was getting the coolant routed around the stock intake manifold because I'll be using a lynx (original manifold/carb were trash so I opted for an upgrade :). I got some copper pipe and a "s" bent hose to run the coolant from the water pump back under the manifold to the heater. Also I replaced the stock water neck with one from a 320, to get rid of the rear water pipe on the stock neck.

Bolted on the new manifold... which took some doing. To get the bottem bolts on I had to slide the manifold out on the studs, and put the bolts on. Then slowly tighten them all evenly as I pushed the manifold back onto the studs, all to keep the bolts binding with the manifold.

motor6_9_03.jpg

Now I got a few questions... first off when I put my fuel pump back on I noticed a spring that I packed with the pump. I have no idea where this goes though. It's about 2 inches long, fairly light weight spring, and is thicker on one end. The thick end can actually fit over the fuel pump rod, but it doesnt seem to fit into the fuel pump/head juction. (note this is not the main return spring in the fuel pump, but something lighter and longer.)

Next question has already been answered in my post below, but I want to make sure. On this last pic there is a blue arrow in the bottem right, it points to some kind of tube coming out of the main engine block. It's my understanding this is a coolant tube and needs to be pluged. True?

motora6_9_03.jpg

Next step is to re-wire the starter/alt area. Then put the alt back in. Next the dizzy and that side of the electrical, then got to get the carb on, run the rest of the coolant/fuel lines, and get it running!

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Guest Anonymous

It's for the water choke on the Solex or Weber downdraft carb. So... If you're nor needing it, yes, plug it.

Kevin

Seattle

1973 2002

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