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rear brake drums -again

Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hello all,

Some of of you gave me some very useful information when I asked about a dragging rear brake on a 1967 1600-2 last week.

Yesterday, I took the wheel off, only to come to the conclusion that the wheel/drum is actually turning quite freely. So what is causing this particular wheel to heat up so much when driving the car ?

I'd love to get the brake drum off and see, but have no idea how to do that. The manual goes into great detail on how to remove the wheel, but then just says "remove the brake drum".

I'd love to get a how to on this particular step. So far, I've backed off the adjusters. All the pictures in the book seem to show the shoes on the backing plate with no axle nut on on the axle. Is the brake drum kept in place by the axle nut ? Do I need to take it off te remove the brake drum, or is there just a rather large hole in the middle of the drum fitting on the axle over the axle nut ?

I've been trying to lever the drum off with a crowbar, but that doesn't seem to do the trick (with the axle nut on), only bending the backing plate a bit.

So is there a trick to getting the drum off ?

Is there anything else back there that can be heating up the wheel ?

Thanks -again- in advance.



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Guest Anonymous

turns freely, it's time to get out that BFH and smack the drum a few times to let it know who is boss. There is probably a ridge inside the drum that is hanging up on the shoes. The good news is that this means there is probably enough brake pad on the shoes to still hang up.

For your brake overheating problem, don't discount terminally plugged rubber brake lines. When they age, they constrict and tend to act like one-way valves. If you don't know when the rubber lines were changed last, it's certainly time to replace the rear line (only one).


John N

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Guest Anonymous

The axle nut does not need to be removed to get the drum off, that big nut is used to retain the hub (w/ wheel studs) to the splined stub axle.

The rear drum is only held on by the wheel. When drums are stuck, it can be due to the center hole in the drum rusting tight to the hub. When you are trying to pull the drum, do you see any movement between the drum and hub? If it's stuck there, use a wire brush to clean around the parting line & then squirt it with a good penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil. Let it soak in + use a hammer to tap the drum/hub to free it up.

Even if the drum is rusted on the center hub, when the wheel is removed the drum does change position (in relation to the shoes). This could explain why the drum turns freely when the wheel is off + and could drag tight while the wheel is installed. Did you raise the wheel with the lugs still tight, and check to see if the brake drags then?

What J.N. said about brake hoses is good advice when investigating a dragging brake. You can get an idea if your hoses are restricted by checking the fluid flow when bleeding the rear wheel cylinders. The brake fluid should flow well out the bleeder, if you have one side just dribble with the bleeder open, it might be one of the two rear flex rubber hoses. (Live axle cars often have only one rear hose, but 02's w/ independent rear trailing arms use a flex rubber hose on each side.)

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