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How to remove front strut gland nut?


sbarton

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I got the bilstein tool to remove the front struts, but that seems to be designed for gland nuts with slots. Mine has 2 holes in it instead of the slots.

I tried using a pipe wrench to get it off, but no luck. Is there a correct tool?

Any ideas? Do I have to compress the strut to relieve some tension or something?

2012-01-19_19-43-58_945.jpg

-Scott

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1974 BMW 2002tii M42 swap 24 Hours of LeMons/Chumpcar, 1991 BMW 318is 24 Hours of LeMons/ChumpCar

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a large vise an a large pipe wrench, try a breaker bar on the wrench if needed.

Don

Don

1973 Sahara # too long ago, purchased in 1978 sold in 1984

1973 Chamonix # 2589243 Katrina Victim, formerly in the good sawzall hands of Baikal.2002 and gone to heaven.

1973 Inka # 2587591 purchased from Mike McCurdy, Dec 2007

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Pipe wrench should work especially since you have the spring off already. Hit it with some PB Blaster, and try again in a hour. Remember lefty-loosey, so turn counter clockwise as viewed from the top.

When you replace the cartridge, you hold it still with an allen wrench fitted into the top. Go ahead and invest in some new rubber cups, top and bottom, so that it doesn't squeeeeeeeeeek each time you turn the wheel. Voice of experience.......failed to do so the first time I replaced cartridges, ca 1978.

Cheers,

Michael

73 tii.

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If you have a large Crecent wrench, do Eurotrash's hose pliers trick to it.

And put a few wraps of tape around the shock before you try anything-

you don't really want to damage the sealing surface.

I've also found that penetrating oil AND some judicious whacks with

a soft- metal (copper) faced hammer helps a lot- breaks the

corrosion loose in the threads, sometimes.

The problem with a pipe wrench is that it squeezes the gland threads in onto the

strut threads, and might make it bind more. The up- side is that if you

work your way around, it can also break corrosion and galling loose.

Keep at it- it'll come off eventually.

Worst case, you can use a chisel at an angle- that almost always works,

but sometimes the nut doesn't survive the process...

hth

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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MAPP gas - light torch to warm it (JUST THE NUT!)- slightly hotter

than you can touch, combined with a penetrating oil,

and bang on top of the nut a few times to break the

rusty thread grip, and get a good tight grip.............

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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I was taught to use three forces to loosen bolts and in this order:

1. Heat (you have to determine from warm to cherry red)

2. Chemical - PB Blaster

3. Impact - a whack or several whacks

Then turn all done in a fairly close time frame, one right after the other.

And what was it Archimedes said about a long lever?

Now, that flies in the face of soaking things for an extended time in penetrant. But is seems to work.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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Pipe wrench, may need some leverage....

Shock%252520tool.JPG

  • Like 1

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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MAPP gas - light torch to warm it (JUST THE NUT!)- slightly hotter

than you can touch, combined with a penetrating oil,

and bang on top of the nut a few times to break the

rusty thread grip, and get a good tight grip.............

I followed c.d.'s prescription...worked like a charm. Be careful when you put the strut tube in the vice, it is crushable. Don't ask.

1974 polaris A 4281992 (total resto with 5-spd conversion)

1976 jadegrun 2744974 (sold then killed by the new owner, grrrr!)

1976 sahara A 2392532 (sold)

1971 nevada 2571108(RIP)

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Guest Anonymous

Be careful with the heating, wouldn't want to blow your insert or catch the oil that it sits in on fire.

In other words, dont cherry it, just get it smoking.

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Got the gland nut off. That was fun! :( Soaked with PB Blaster, heated with torch, hit it with Freeze Off, then big pipe wrench and lots of swearing. Easy... ;)

So no that that is off, how do you remove the strut from the housing? It wiggles back and fortt a little, but there is zero movement up and down. I put the strut top back on and was yanking up on it, but no movement.

Thanks.

-Scott

Duct Tape Motorsports - Sponsored by www.BMW2002.com

facebook.com/DuctTapeMotorsports - Like us on Facebook!

MyTrackSchedule.com - Your key to more track events!

1974 BMW 2002tii M42 swap 24 Hours of LeMons/Chumpcar, 1991 BMW 318is 24 Hours of LeMons/ChumpCar

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clamp the strut housing in a vise, have a fat kid stand on it,

and then you yank and jerk really hard to break it free.

If you can grip the very top with channel lock plyers and twist

the insert (not the shinny tube part) it might break free.

Do Not Crush or dent the housing tube if you clamp it.

look at your new strut insert for Ref.

It just fits tight at the bottom - which is why you'll smear

anti-seize on the new insert before inserting it.

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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  • 1 year later...

Took ring nut off and removed the strut. I noticed strut made by KYB. Did BMW use KYB struts in 02's in 1976?

Secondly, looking inside strut housing, noticed flat washer with flat rubber ring laying at the bottom of the housing. Should I leave them in or must remove? Of course it did not fall out when held housing upside down.

Thanks,

Buckeye

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

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