some solex 32 32 questions

[aaron7302]

Have a 73 2002 with a solex two barrel with a water choke. Never worked with these carbs before, my 2002s always had the webers already on them. I've searched the archives and downloaded the basic tuning diagrams and some other useful info from the FAQ, great, so I understand what some things are. I'm in the process of some desmogification as well so I'm disconnecting some of the stuff -

Basically, I have questions about the electrics - there are three wires running to this carb:

-one is the idle solenoid. It was getting a 12V ignition lead. When I disconnected this, the car still ran normal. I didnt expect this, I thought it was supposed to cut out, so I guess this is not working? I'm assuming that since a properly tuned carb should not run-on, this is something I can just leave and forget if it is broke? Or will it come back to haunt...

- one wire is going to an electric heating element in addition to the water choke - what does this actually do? Is it a good thing? This was also getting a strait ignition 12V.

- one wire goes to something called an "electromagnetic starter valve" on the driver side of the carb. No clue and cant find info as to what that is - ? Do I need this device and what kind of power does it want - it seemed that it was linked into some of the smog stuff?

Lastly, there is the dashpot that attaches to the intake, is linked to a valve on the firewall. I thought this was smog related so I removed it, however, in reading up several of the tuning manuals mention making adjustments to this device, etc. In summary, is this thing needed and what will removing it do?.

Thanks in advance for the info!

[PatAllen]

i tuned my 32/32 on my automatic to fine limits, and eventualy switched to a weber 32/36....

sounds like your idle solenoid is stuck open...no real big deal.

the dash pot is a smog regulating device. you can actualy remove it completely. just make sure you readjust your idle once done because part of the carb mechanism rest against it, mostly when its not working well so the idle relies on the "wrong" dashpot.

the rectangle thing bolted to the side of the carb with a straight 12v is a heating element with a tiny valve in it, that supposedely helps for start-up. id say keep that one.

not sure about the electromagnetic valve. might post a picture ? i think its just one of the several variation of vacuum valves used on the smog system, there is some used to control dizzy advance/retard in regards to motor temp, one other for dashpot and one other for the egr valve. if you desmog you can remove this all.

fwiw, my experience on motor run on is caused by carbon accumulation into the combustion chamber that act like a sponge, it accumulate gas vapour that may come from drip from the carb (hence the reason of an idle cut-off solenoid), and burn by itself because of hot temp... carbon accumulation can be the fault of a improperly adjusted carb, a worn out motor and several other sources...but what to expect from a 40 year old car designed in the 60's...eh...

I never fixed motor run-on by messing up with ignition timing. There is several peoples that may recal on that, and i stick-up with my experience, logicaly the ignition is off when the motor runs-on, so for me its illogical that it would cause it. Sure enough if its not tuned properly and the motor runs too hot, then run-on is just a consequence of something else i would say.