engine and drivetrain 1976 2002 Fuel Pump Install

[Guest Anonymous]

So i'm finally trying to convert my 02' back to the mechanical fuel pump (the PO had put in an electric pump). I'm doing this because I dont think that the electric pump is right for the engine and pumps too much gas (possibly?). Regardless, I bought a new mechanical fuel pump and as I tried to install it, I quickly realized that the car was missing some components that are needed for the pump to be installed, like the spacer and the push rod. Is there anything else needed that I may be missing?

So far, I know I need 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5.

Also, I was looking at the push rod on some websites and it looks like it is just a steel rod.

How is this supposed to secure the fuel pump? it looks like it has no groves to screw into the engine or to have a nut attached to it. Or is this just a generic picture that doesn't really show it well.

Sorry if these are stupid questions. I'm really new to 02s.

Some pictures of current set-up

What was being used to plug the hole where the pump goes

Electric Fuel Pump

Happy Halloween!!

[c.d.iesel]

# 3 is the special nylon spacer/washer that insulates the pump

mounting stud and nut from vibrations which will loosen the pump very

quickly if not installed

#4 is a solid wavy washer, or solid flat washer

#5 nut is a nyloc nut - also need to combat loosening vibrations

and you'll need a brass barbed fuel line 6mm-to-8mm reducer

because the 8x13mm supply hose will be to big for the new

mech pump hose fitting - which is smaller 6mm - you'll also need a

length of 6mm id fuel hose to the pump - there is a thread

here a few days a go where I showed the barbed reducer

[Free76]

The push rod doesn't secure the pump to the head. That is done by two studs that go in the outer holes where the pump mounts. The noted washers and nyloc nuts screw onto the stud and hold the pump in position.

The push rod just actuates the pump, kind of like a trigger on a water pistol.

[Napes]

You will also need the two studs that go where the PO had the bolts holding the block-off plate. If you go to someone like Blunt for all your parts he can check and get you the proper length studs.

The studs are:

P/N 07 12 9 908 135 M8 x 50 (1 req'd) AND,

P/N 07 12 9 908 137 M8 x 55 (1 req'd) (This longer one goes toward the rear of the engine. I'm not sure why one is a little longer)

Steve@BluntTech.com

Bob Napier

PS: Nice Jack-O-Lantern

[Mike Self]

for the later style fuel pump--that's the one that you can't dismantle (no screws around the edge holding the diaphragm in place.)

And you'll need the thick phenolic insulating spacer that goes between the pump and the cylinder head.

Drop Steve (Blunt) an e-mail, tell him whatcha currently have and he can supply the correct missing bits.

cheers

mike

[autobon7]

# 3 is the special nylon spacer/washer that insulates the pump

mounting stud and nut from vibrations which will loosen the pump very

quickly if not installed

#4 is a solid wavy washer, or solid flat washer

#5 nut is a nyloc nut - also need to combat loosening vibrations

and you'll need a brass barbed fuel line 6mm-to-8mm reducer

because the 8x13mm supply hose will be to big for the new

mech pump hose fitting - which is smaller 6mm - you'll also need a

length of 6mm id fuel hose to the pump - there is a thread

here a few days a go where I showed the barbed reducer

Thats your ride CD? I LOVE the engine bay as is is totally clean. Whoevers car this is I salute you.