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Posted

Hey Folks-

I am about 4000k miles into my rebuild (JUNE of this year) and what I thought may have been a front side slight oil drip (never really had to ad oil but to be safe on a road trip 1/4 liter) Other than the slight drip the rebuild runs great and I have had half a dozen 300plus mile road trips!

The SLight drip everytime I stop is making me fucking crazy/..

SO I am going to change the oil pan gasket again...I think I may have over torqued the bolts afraid of leak but may have squeezed the shit out of it.

My 2 questions are:

1. Should I use RTV sealant with the Gasket?

2. Is there a better Gasket? Can I order a super deluxe no drip overkill gasket?

I just ordered a (paper or cork)standard they couldn't tell .....from Bav Auto. The last one I ordered from Blunt was the same make. I think that a slight bit is blown and ends up on the front lower side of the timing cover.

Anyway with engine hoist I am going to do over

TIA KEVIN

70' 1600 Malaga

75' 2002 polaris 91-95

2000 328i 95k

2003 GMC Envoy-stolen and replaced

2010 GMC ACADIA

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 247k

SiteNamecopy.jpg

Posted

I got one from Bav Auto that is made of some crazy foam type a deal. Looks like it will work well!

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

Posted

My (thick) paper gasket used with Curil K2 sealant has worked well. Did you make sure the pan flange surfaces were flat and not dimpled from someone overtighening the bolts?

d8692733.jpg

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

Posted

I am looking at jgerocks picture of all those things holding the gasket in position.

Tech Tip for oil pan gasket installation. Use sewing thread to hold the gasket in position. You can then install the pan without removing the thread.

Cheers,

Carl

Posted

A little RTV on those front timing cover to block seams goes a long way...

also, make sure it's still snug- I've had them loosen on me to the point that

the bolts were falling out.

I'm pretty sure I would live with it, personally.... but that's me.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted
I am looking at jgerocks picture of all those things holding the gasket in position.

Tech Tip for oil pan gasket installation. Use sewing thread to hold the gasket in position. You can then install the pan without removing the thread.

Cheers,

Carl

I've received some funny responses about my "tool holder" oil pan. The tools were there to try and keep the gasket flat while the sealant was drying. I used tiny zip ties to keep it in place while starting the bolts, then cut and removed them. Great idea with the sewing thread!

f1b8276b.jpg

This method of installing the pan didn't work. I had to remove the oil pump pickup to get the pan in place. The engine was as high as it would go off the subframe.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

Posted

Thanks folks

I am going to look into the CURIL stuff I was going to use a small bead of rtv probably the grey stuff. I ordered new HEx bolts and washers just in case...I just don't want to do this again until the next rebuild.

I will keep an eye out for the dimples I did overtighten some or at least I think that might be it

Kevin

70' 1600 Malaga

75' 2002 polaris 91-95

2000 328i 95k

2003 GMC Envoy-stolen and replaced

2010 GMC ACADIA

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 247k

SiteNamecopy.jpg

Posted

I just used some RTV, the Toyota brand stuff, at the joints of the front cover, the other part was dry.

You may also want to de-dimple the oil pan. Sometimes the pan gets a bit deformed where the bolts go through. I think I used a ball pein hammer to flatten the inside and outside of the oil pan where the bolts go through.

Mathew Cervi came over and hung out and helped when I was doing this - something about the mother-in-law being in town......

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

Posted
Mathew Cervi came over and hung out and helped when I was doing this - something about the mother-in-law being in town......

Sounds like a story for der Bayerische.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

Posted

jgerock,

I learned the sewing thread trick 25 or more years ago, long before zip ties were invented.

Using zip ties is excellent, a great idea !! Use the zip ties to very easily & quickly put & hold the gasket in position for sealant drying, then place sewing thread through every hole to keep the gasket in proper position during installation.

Cheers,

Carl

Posted
25 or more years ago, long before zip ties were invented.

you're showing your age- zip ties are over 50!

(yes, I remember lacing tape, too...)

t

Cable ties were first invented by Thomas & Betts, an electrical company, in 1958 under the brand name Ty-Rap initially designed for airplane wire harnesses.

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted

hmmm .... didn't know zip ties were that old. I got a few years on 'em .

So I guess it would be more accurate to say that I didn't learn about & start using zip ties until 25 years or so ago. I reckon I had thought of 'em as something newfangled that could never replace my one true favorite fixit solution: baling wire.

Cheers,

Carl

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