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Posted

in 6 weeks time i will be rebuilding a 72 02 my list of new parts as follows,

IE swaybar and spring kit with stage 2 springs and bilstein sport on all 4 corners, schrick 292 cam with full top end rebuild including billet rocker arms dual valve springs, weber 38/38, IE shorty header down pipe and stainless exhaust system. There are a lot more than those parts but mechanically that is the general gist of it, so i ask all knowledgable and great 2002 faqer's, what do you think? how much hp should i be getting and if anyone has the same setup any carb tuning tips?

Posted

Man, as far as hp and tuning, that's a pretty broad question. I would GUES in the 130hp range.

That suspension is going to be real stif.

John

Fresh squeezed horseshoes and hand grenades

1665778

 

Posted

haha i'm young so i don't particularly mind, i'm also putting in new forged pistons 10.5:1 forgot to mention that and a getrag 245/10 close ratio dogleg box

Posted
haha i'm young so i don't particularly mind

You're old Harv 8^o

(somone had to say it)

1974 polaris A 4281992 (total resto with 5-spd conversion)

1976 jadegrun 2744974 (sold then killed by the new owner, grrrr!)

1976 sahara A 2392532 (sold)

1971 nevada 2571108(RIP)

Posted

Just in op/ed. That will be a nice set up but the improvements to the valve train +breathing are mainly about being able to rev the engine. You should take all the necessary steps to make sure the engine won't grenade on you.

Subjective: For me moving the redline up 500 RPMs with no vibrations, shudders, belches, is much more satisfying then raw horsepower. The only thing that should change is the pitch of the motor.

Rick

Posted

If this car is going to see any street use DO NOT use billet rockers unless you know how to care for them properly. Dual valve spring might also be excessive in your situation.

There are some things that are not listed on the IE website that might be just what you're looking for (and don't know it!), sounds like it might be good to get Jeremy or Jeff Ireland's input.

Posted

yeah, I wouldn't bother with the billet rockers- the Ireland heavy duty

have held up surprisingly well at 7500 with a 315-ish cam...

and they're not a hell of a lot more than the stock rockers.

Valve springs are worth it, though, as every rocker problem I ever had

was a spring problem that broke a rocker. Duals? Who knows?

What you really want is something maybe 20% stiffer than stock for safety.

292 is a pretty mild cam, too- if'n you eventually plan for power, more would

be better.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted

Schrick makes some "HD" valve springs which are supposed to be stiffer than stock, but not quite as stiff as duals. The stiffer the spring the faster you'll wear out the cam/rockers.

10.5:1 is kinda high with out going EFI. If you do that make sure you can always get good quality premium gas. Maybe even mix a little higher octane fuel in with ever tank.

If you're spending money, put and aluminum flywheel on there. That will make a huge difference. If you can find a good used set of S14 rods, they're a lot lighter than the factory M10 rods. Converting to a single row timing chain will also reduce engine inertia and costs ~ $100 in parts. Get an oil pan baffle and crank scrapper too, about $80 for the pair from IE.

Even though it's not engine performance specifically, put an electric fan on. My mileage increase significantly after installing an e-fan and zender style airdam.

Damn it, I'm getting sucked in. Don't forget to go over your brakes and make sure everything is working well. If you can weld, consider the toe/camber subframe mod pieces. It'll save your rear tires and help with traction.

Posted

....." how much hp should i be getting ?"

depends on what your ignition is?

and how you set it?

and how you jet the 38/38?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

Posted

Also if you rebuild the top end just succumb and do the bottom end. I'm kicking myself for not doing it all on my motor when i had it apart. Other than that it looks like a fair build!

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

Posted

Consider upgrading the brakes.

Stock tii front struts and brake booster will give you some "whoa" along with your "go."

Limited slip? 3.64 is my favorite.

Ireland's Stage II springs are pretty low. I ran Stage Is and Bilstein HDs on my '74tii. Great compromise for street/performance.

If you're going to run a really stiff suspension setup, renew all suspension bushings and mounts while you're in there. The stiffness will beat the daylights out of already-worn parts.

In fact a better way to this is to replace the bushings and mounts FIRST and worry about the super-trick/bitchin'/sick/go-fast parts later.

That's what i think.

1973 2002tii - gone

Inka (aka "Orange Julius")

#2762756

1974 2002tii - gone

Polaris (aka "Mae West")

#2782824

1991 318is (aka) "O'Hara")

Brillantrot - High Visibility Daily Driver

BMW CCA #1974 (one of the 308)

deliawolfe@gmail.com

Posted

bills2002 i'm not harv or whoever you're thinking, i'm 19 and from Australia =) TobyB would you suggest i go to a 304 cam?? manimal 91 is lowest octane of gas here i put 98 in my motorbike so i might run 94/95 most of the time also i am putting in an aluminium flywheel, Delia will be putting a wilwood 15" big brake kit and rear disc kit on, already put urethane bushes on all round, I intend to use this as a weekend car but enter into some classic rally's and hill climbs, what would you guys recommend as a setup?

Posted
Schrick makes some "HD" valve springs which are supposed to be stiffer than stock, but not quite as stiff as duals. The stiffer the spring the faster you'll wear out the cam/rockers.

It's funny your wrote that as I just listed the IE heavy duty singles today. Jeff/Jeremy have been selling them for a while to those who call.

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-valvetrain/M10HDvlvs.html

Posted
bills2002 i'm not harv or whoever you're thinking, i'm 19 and from Australia =) TobyB would you suggest i go to a 304 cam?? manimal 91 is lowest octane of gas here i put 98 in my motorbike so i might run 94/95 most of the time also i am putting in an aluminium flywheel, Delia will be putting a wilwood 15" big brake kit and rear disc kit on, already put urethane bushes on all round, I intend to use this as a weekend car but enter into some classic rally's and hill climbs, what would you guys recommend as a setup?

Classic rally's(sic) and hillclimbs will require different vehicle dynamics on loose or uneven surfaces and the use of pesky things like suspension travel -as much supension travel as you've got. A stiff setup with too-big tires will put you off in the giggly weeds just as sure as the day is long.

Stiff works best on smooth, flat roads and highway off-ramps and racing tracks. If you're already running urethane bushings, HDs and stage I springs is adequate.

Not sure what you've decided for wheels/tires, but too big will rub more if the car is too low rather if too high. But too high is gonna look dorky.

Finish those changes and let us know "your" opinion.

1973 2002tii - gone

Inka (aka "Orange Julius")

#2762756

1974 2002tii - gone

Polaris (aka "Mae West")

#2782824

1991 318is (aka) "O'Hara")

Brillantrot - High Visibility Daily Driver

BMW CCA #1974 (one of the 308)

deliawolfe@gmail.com

Posted

have a set of 15 x 6" alpina replicas coming in the next shipment available, will be a while before i can develop my own opinion on what i think is good and what isn't unfortunately which is why i'm asking, also is a 304 duration too much for a street/performance car?

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