Jump to content
jgerock

2002ti wannabe project begins

1,075 posts / 198594 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Just visited Jim this weekend to pick up some BMW K75 cases from Marshall; the Riviera blue looks even more stunning in person than in pictures and the interior looks great also. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, ray_ said:

Good! What was the recent issue?

 

Cheers,

something to do with an extra gear in a transmisson and then a bunch of scope creep...;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
(edited)

I've posted lots on Instagram and Facebook, but not here lately.  Time for an update.

Drove the 69 to Vintage in Hot Springs.  Car performed very well except on the way back the carbs loaded up while sitting in heavy interstate 95 traffic.   The ANSA muffler was way too loud, even with the 5 speed upgrade.  The top seat belt anchor point continues to annoy me, along with the lack of retraction of the belts due to the rear seat bottom frame.  

 

Investigating the rough running of the engine, I removed both carburetors and found the (2) adjustment nuts for the accelerator pump arm were missing from the rear carb.  They must have fallen off since my trip to Pittsburgh in October 2018.  I  added the missing nuts, installed larger main jets (now 135), adjusted the float level in the front carb and synchronized the butterflies in both carbs with Marshall's assistance.  Before the synchronization, cylinder # 4 would not respond to any adjustment to the idle mixture screw. After doing all this, the car runs smoother and at a lower RPM than ever before.  Before re-installing the air cleaner, I swapped the "straight" aluminum air intake horns with another set that are more angular which I believe are the correct ones for a 2002ti.  These air horns allow a better fit to the rubber boots for the air cleaner.

 

I goofed up on the new transmission hanger bracket locations and had to re-drill another hole higher in the tunnel.  This made the original (2) holes not line up so I only used (1) hole per side and I added some metal strapping supports.  After some spirited driving, the entire transmission support bracket pivoted (twisted) towards the rear, effectively lowering the exhaust -  which caused the resonator to rattle on the sub-frame (again, again, again).

 

With Marshall's assistance, we made (2) new hanger brackets from thick steel and bolted them in place. That should fix the problem.

 

I pulled out the ANSA muffler and replaced it with my stock tii muffler.  Car is now much quieter.   The shaking engine (stock rubber mounts) caused the muffler to move enough and contact the spare tire well, so hose clamps were used to tighten the stock muffler hangers.

 

Now that the muffler is on, additional noises were revealed.   I removed the urethane diff hanger bushings and replaced them with stock BMW rubber bushings.   Some test drives confirmed the gear noise was diminished, but now I can hear something else.  I think my old speedometer is acting up (noisy), but fear there is a problem with the Getrag 245 transmission or TO bearing, since the noise disappears when I push the clutch in.

 

The headliner I installed continues to frustrate me.  Driving with the windows down has caused the sunroof insert liner to come loose (again) and hang down.  The spray glue I used to secure the foam to the roof failed and the rear of the headliner billows and puffs downward when I drive.  I recently ordered a new headliner from BLUNT and am working on new upper seat belt anchors for the B pillars.  To remedy the seat belt retraction issue, I need to source a later back seat bottom frame which is slightly narrower than the 69 one.

 

I plan on driving this car to Vintage at Saratoga Springs in July and might drive it to the CCA Oktoberfest in SC.

 

 

IMG_2516.JPG

IMG_2523.JPG

IMG_2492.JPG

IMG_E2530.JPG

IMG_2515.JPG

IMG_2588.JPG

IMG_2571.JPG

IMG_2673.JPG

Edited by jgerock
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few more pics.

 

The VDO oil pressure sender adapter leaked oil down the transmission bellhousing and onto the downpipe, causing a burnt oil smell on long trips.  I tightened all the fittings and wiped the oil  - hopefully this solves the leakage issue. 

 

Two pics showing the missing Solex 40PHH pump jet hardware and my replacements using another carb.

 

Last picture shows the rear carb butterfly synchronization screw.  Cylinder # 4 butterfly was not the same as # 3.

IMG_2677.JPG

IMG_1752.JPG

IMG_1753.JPG

IMG_1744.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BMW doesn’t say it this way, but I think that M3 engine is just two M10s welded together somehow.  4.0 liters....I mean...that’s not a coincidence!

 

Great pics.  

 

I guess the blue car is going through “post-build sorting”.  Certainly putting that many miles on it will reveal (or in some cases cause) weaknesses, I suppose.  

 

Always enjoy seeing that car in person - I looked forward to it that second evening!

 

Scott

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Attended the Vintage at Saratoga (NY) event the weekend of July 13.  Total of 887 miles (all solo).   7.5 hours each way.  It was very nice to catch up with the Northeastern folks that I've missed seeing at the Vintage NC events for the last few years.  Driving from Northern Virginia to Saratoga Springs makes me appreciate all those folks who have made the trek down to the NC/SC events.  Saratoga Springs is about 166 miles NORTH of NYC.   

 

When I pulled into the museum parking area for the show Saturday morning, little did I know that ANOTHER Riviera blue/tan interior 2002 (a 72) would be parked right beside me!   It was great to talk with the "other" Riviera owner (Joe Dolgetta).  He had just retrieved the car from his cousin who owns a body shop.  His 72 looked fantastic, with super straight bodywork, Euroweave wheels, leather interior and M10 with dual Weber DCOE carbs.

 

I had zero issues with the 69 until my return trip.   The speedometer needle bounced around until the car warmed up and then the window regulator spring ejected into the bottom of the door at my last gas stop.

 

IMG_3005.JPG

IMG_3006.JPG

IMG_3007.JPG

IMG_3008.JPG

IMG_3009.JPG

IMG_3010.JPG

IMG_3011.JPG

IMG_3012.JPG

IMG_3032.JPG

IMG_3035.JPG

IMG_3064.JPG

IMG_3065.JPG

IMG_3066.JPG

IMG_3075.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After the Saratoga event, I pulled the driver's side door panel (again) to investigate the regulator and also figure out why the window was so difficult to wind up.

I replaced the regulator with another good used one from my 73tii, then replaced both front and rear guides.  While doing this, I decided to replace the glass "guide" metal piece that can rust and fail on certain cars.  The left guide failed on my 73tii in 2017, so I purchased (2) left and (2) right side guides (BMW #'s ending in 181 left and 182 right )from BLUNT [these may be NLA now].  Thanks to Daron Ball for the spare window guide pieces that I was missing.   

 

After a few days messing with the window, I finally have it able to roll up and down pretty smoothly, except it starts binding from 1/2 to the full down position.  I've also noticed the window can be pulled upward another 1/8-1/4" by hand after the regulator is in the full up position (and the window stops are below max height).  It seems the window regulator itself is at max travel.

 

I know there are some technical tips here on the FAQ about adjusting windows, but sometimes you have to dive in and mess around to get the best results.

 

1) The vent window can be moved a little using the upper (3) mounting bolts and the bottom (2) locating bracket bolts.

 

2) The rear vertical window guide can be moved in and out using the (2) lower bracket bolts and forward/backward via the top single mounting bolt.

 

3) The front roller guide attaches to the window glass metal piece with (2) bolts. There is a little room for adjustment. I've seen both white and green colored nylon guide pieces.  The rollers can bind up over time and should be cleaned and lubricated to allow them to roll freely along the vent window lower frame.  There is a separate metal piece that limits the upward travel of this guide. It contacts the metal tab welded into the door next to the vent window.

 

4) The rear guide attaches to the window with (2) thru bolts and companion metal bracket with capture nuts and rubber sleeve.  A separate metal piece that limits the upward travel of this guide uses the same (2) thru bolts.

 

5) Cleaning the old, dried out grease and applying fresh grease makes a big difference in how the window rolls up and down.

 

 

 

Wing window.JPG

Door window 1.JPG

Front window 2.JPG

IMG_E3157.JPG

IMG_E3158.JPG

IMG_E3159.JPG

IMG_E3160.JPG

IMG_E3162.JPG

IMG_E3163.JPG

IMG_E3164.JPG

IMG_3106.JPG

IMG_E3165.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.