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jgerock

2002ti wannabe project begins

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Thumbs up!

Ordered some shifter support bushings, alternator bushings and shift tower mounts from AKG Motorsport on-line Sunday March 3rd. Package received today via Priority mail!

Thumbs down!

Sent another e-mail to Turner Motorsport tonight asking about an update on the Schrick cam and valve springs (ordered B4 Thanksgiving). Totally unimpressed by this whole transaction. Makes me want to put a stock cam in the car.

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I think I'd have just dumped the Schrick and just gone with a new billet or regrind cam by now. They're a whole lot cheaper for one, and Delta Camshafts had my regrind done in a week. Granted I'm right up the road from them, but still...

I guess the Turner guys are too busy with their race cars to sell parts. At least they are winning races. ;)

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Got a call from Jason at TMS (Turner). Schrick cam finally shipped from Germany - should have my parts in a few weeks. A waiting list was kept until the 292 cams were actually made in 1 batch. Guess we could have been told that at time of order placement.

Cleaned up and painted a few parts last weekend including the brake vertical linkage, (2) front suspension pipes and the tii brake booster.

The fit of the vertical fork at the pedal is kind of sloppy so I'll get some nylon washers before final assembly.

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Inside the booster, two replaceable parts I have not seen before are this filter

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And this damper

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Here is a comparison between my old and new dampers

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Clean out the inside of the booster tube before inserting these two pieces, (green filter, then grey damper) then the cap snaps back on prior to the rubber protective boot.

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I painted the booster with self-etching primer then some Rust-tough black enamel (spray paint).

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Here is what it looks like on the master cylinder side

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Next up was removing the (2) tii air filter tabs from my scrap body piece courtesy of Jason Gipson (Polaris 74tii)

The front tab has (4) spot welds + a tack weld at the top

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The rear tab uses (3) tack welds

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I took some measurements, marked the outline of both parts on the scrap piece, then cut the tack welds with my Dremel tool.

For the front piece, I was able to scrape the rubberized undercoating off the rear, exposing the (4) spot welds. Center punch and drill all the way thru the sections.

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After cutting the top tack weld, and slightly bending the tab for more Dremel clearance, I used a chisel to remove the tab from the body section.

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After cleaning up the tabs a bit, I attached them to the ti air cleaner and positioned it on the '69 fenderwell based on the measurements from the other piece and my 73tii. Nothing welded yet - I'm just holding it in place for these pics.

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Looks like I have about 1.5" clearance from the inner cowl to the air cleaner. Maybe someone else with a ti can confirm this.

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Booster looks great. There is/was someone who supplied a repro booster sticker. I got one at some point in a package of underwood stickers.

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did you notice if the fork on the back of the booster is removable?

It did not look to be easily removable. It looks like the fork is tack welded to the shaft. I'm going to add some nylon washers at both fork ends to take up the slack.

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Booster looks great. There is/was someone who supplied a repro booster sticker. I got one at some point in a package of under hood stickers.

Thanks Kris - unfortunately, the master cylinder side was rusty and pitted. At least I know it came from a working car and the inside wasn't filled with fluid.

I think I have one of those rectangular ATE stickers from a set I purchased a few years ago from Carl at LaJolla Independent.

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Wow Jim. Looks fantastic. The Ti brackets are key I think.

I found the same parts when I worked on a tii booster I bought and installed.

As for the stickers - search e-bay. I think I found a set on there once, and that's why I have one on my booster.

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After waiting almost 4 months, I received my Schrick cam and springs from Turner Motorsports today. In the end, Chris and Jason of TMS were helpful, but c'mon - 4 months for a camshaft?

BTW: Turner got some E36 Schrick cams that were supposedly machined wrong - would hate to be in that situation. Jason also told me that getting cams for newer 3-series engines are tough (very long lead times).

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Yesterday I decided to finally do something with the old heater box blower motor from the 69. I removed it from the box top, cleaned it up, then tested it with a spare battery. It is dead.

Orientation when dropping out the motor

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Here is the style of motor I have after some cleaning

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Close up of the Bosch stampings

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The fan set screw uses a 2mm Allen wrench

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Since that one did not work, I decided to pull out my crusty other box and test that motor - it works fine!

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Same assembly after some major cleaning and painting of the fan.

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I used CRC electronic parts cleaner, CRC brake cleaner and a small brush to get the grime off. I tried removing the fan blade, but it would not come off so I just scrubbed the blades with a Scotch-brite pad, then used my Dremel tool with S/S wire brush to knock off some of the rust. Self-etching primer and Eastwood's Alumablast paint were sprayed on followed by some alloy wheel clear coat spray.

I'll certainly re-test it before putting it back into the 69 box top.

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Jim, I have an early style heater box with an unbroken valve mount, if you want it. What size it your 69's valve?

Thanks Clay.. I may take you up on that HB (it uses the small valve). See next entry from today

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