2002ti wannabe project begins

[jgerock]

Another milestone reached today with much assistance from Marshall.

We hauled the spare, low-buck subframe from his yard to my house, then I power washed it along with the 69 hood. Of course I had to move a bunch of stuff in the garage so we could actually work on the car (including the tii).

While I did some scrubbing, Marshall attacked the front end, removing the brake hoses (they looked brand new) along with the bottom sub frame bolts.

Both the '69 (left) and other Frankenstein sub assemblies. Let's see if anyone here will notice something we did not until we were trying to install Franky in the car.

"Franky" all installed (after he was "fixed")

We then disassembled the subframe from the '69.

I will continue taking these apart this week or during the weekend when I get more time.

[M3M3]

LOL..."franky" came about when, after looking at the giant pile of 02 parts we were about to take to a metal recycler, we realized that if we could put something else under oscar, Jim could start work on building up a really nice front suspension with the dry original parts. so we sorted through the pile and assembled a basic front suspension using random parts from at least three different cars (probably more). both front and rear "franky's" will hold the car off the ground nicely through the bodywork process, then be surplussed.....

[Collinster742002]

I'm glad to see some progress on the car. Nice!

[jgerock]

Front subframe from the '69 after some parts were removed. Steering box and idler arm pulled today. Still have to get those idler arm and strut arm bushings out.

Looks like I need to fix a crack at the steering box mount

Steering box action is smooth

Another "late model" part someone installed

Here is the ground strap at the coupler

[M3M3]

re: crack...well needed to reinforce the engine mount anyway!

[kris]

How long do you think it will take to have it back on the road?

[jgerock]

How long do you think it will take to have it back on the road?

Hmm. Since I don't have enough $$ to get the bodywork done, I really don't have a timeline. It took me about 10 years to finish the VW, but that was mainly due to getting married and moving several times.

What about your car?

[kris]

How long do you think it will take to have it back on the road?

Hmm. Since I don't have enough $$ to get the bodywork done, I really don't have a timeline. It took me about 10 years to finish the VW, but that was mainly due to getting married and moving several times.

What about your car?

The goal is to drive it to the Vintage. We'll see

[jgerock]

The goal is to drive it to the Vintage. We'll see

Don't rush on our account.

[jgerock]

Ordered a Schrick 292 camshaft and Schrick single valve springs from Turner Motorsport in late November. Expected 3-4 weeks for delivery, but now it will be around January 11th for them to ship due to the cam. Was hoping for Christmas arrival. I am being patient with engine parts...

[jgerock]

Snow flurries outside!

Since my wife had to work at her store, I decided to do some piddling in the garage.

Removed the springs from the '69 front strut assemblies. Couldn't remove the strut insert nut even after heating it. Will require someone to stand on the strut while I wrench on the nut.

Removed the front tie bar (locating/strut bars) from the wishbone arms.

Was able to remove (1) of the (2) steering arms from the ball joints. The other one is soaking in Liquid Wrench.

Then turned my attention to the idler arm bushings. Marshall helped me press the old ones out of the subframe last weekend, but they are the early type with chrome metal inserts top and bottom. The new ones look like all you have to do is remove the blue plastic sleeve and press them into the old chrome inserts. I'm not installing them until after I get the subframe powder coated.

Here is the metal insert in the idler arm tube

Comparison between the (2) bushings (blue one is new type)

New part bag

After pushing the blue sleeve off the black bushing, it appears the new bushings will press into the old chrome sleeves.

According to Penskeparts.com, there are (2) different part numbers, but both say they are for (2/62-7/77 applications)

32 21 111 5116 (.17 lbs.) <<< this is the new one I have

32 21 247 5055 (.33 lbs.)

Anyone here know about the other part number?

Merry Christmas folks...

Jim

[ray_]

Realoem sez:

Part 32212475055 (Rubber Mounting) was found on the following vehicles:

114: Details on 114

114 1602 Sedan, USA

114 2002 Sedan, USA

114 1600 Sedan, Europe

114 1600ti Sedan, Europe

114 1602 Sedan, Europe

114 2002 Sedan, Europe

114 2002ti Sedan, Europe

NK: Details on NK

NK 2000 Sedan, USA

NK 1600 Sedan, Europe

NK 1800 Sedan, Europe

NK 1800ti Sedan, Europe

NK 1800tiSA Sedan, Europe

NK 2000 Sedan, Europe

NK 2000C Coupe, Europe

NK 2000CS Coupe, Europe

NK 2000ti Sedan, Europe

NK 2000tii Sedan, Europe

NK 2000tilux Sedan, Europe

Part 32211115116 (Rubber Mounting) was found on the following vehicles:

114: Details on 114

114 1602 Sedan, USA

114 2002 Sedan, USA

114 2002tii Sedan, USA

114 1502 Sedan, Europe

114 1600 Convertible, Europe

114 1600 Sedan, Europe

114 1600ti Sedan, Europe

114 1602 Sedan, Europe

114 1602 Touring, Europe

114 1802 Sedan, Europe

114 1802 Touring, Europe

114 2000 Touring, Europe

114 2000tii Touring, Europe

114 2002 Convertible, Europe

114 2002 Sedan, Europe

114 2002 Touring, Europe

114 2002ti Sedan, Europe

114 2002tii Touring, Europe

114 2002tii Sedan, Europe

114 2002turbo Sedan, Europe

NK: Details on NK

NK 2000 Sedan, USA

NK 1500 Sedan, Europe

NK 1600 Sedan, Europe

NK 1800 Sedan, Europe

NK 1800ti Sedan, Europe

NK 1800tiSA Sedan, Europe

NK 2000 Sedan, Europe

NK 2000C Coupe, Europe

NK 2000CS Coupe, Europe

NK 2000ti Sedan, Europe

NK 2000tii Sedan, Europe

NK 2000tilux Sedan, Europe

So, there!

Cheers,

[jgerock]

Without a differential on the temporary subframe, the rear portion was dipping downward and the (2) big bushings were stressed (rear camber excessive too).

Borrowed a hollow diff housing from Marshall, swapped the rear cover from my old '73 diff along with the bracket from the '69 then shoved it in the car.

Much better now.

Hollow on left - old chewed up spider gear 73 on right

Hollow on left - 69 diff on right

Can't go anywhere but at least the subframe is more secure

Also got this new rear tail panel from BLUNT a few weeks ago

[jgerock]

Pulled the rear cover from the diff that was in the 69.

Rear cover was from early 1972 - which matches the "2" stamped in the housing.

Gears look pretty good

K9 stamping on the ring gear means it is the Klingelnberg style 3.64:1

This spider gear tooth is the only one I'm really worried about.

Then pulled the steering arm from the 1974 steering box using my ball joint puller tool (Advance Automotive). I marked the arm and housing with respect to the groove on the shaft.

[jgerock]

Received a nice heavy package this week containing my rebuilt 121 cylinder head pulled from a 72tii engine.

Here is how it looked after I bought the engine. Yes, this is the birdseed engine.

Had Korman Autoworks in Greensboro, NC do the work after constant question and answer sessions with Ray Korman and shop guy Jim. I was very pleased with how this turned out - but was nervous about such a major engine component.

New valve guides, stem seals, valve seat/valve grinding and replacement of some studs were definitely needed along with resurfacing of the head itself. All of the old valves and seats were re-used.

Since I am going to install a Schrick 292 cam and valve springs, Ray had Jim slip the valves into their proper locations and bag up the new febi rocker arms and shafts.

Here is the head being re-worked by Jim during one of my several visits to Korman.