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Posted

I've had start trouble the last few times I've tried to start the ti. also have a squeeking alternator. I know I still have good voltage though since the volt meter shows 14 V when the car is running.

so, i tested the starter. lights on, everytihng ok. tried to crank the starter, it turns over once and stops. lights go out. try to crank it again and the whole system is DEAD. no lights, no volts, NOTHING. Battery is only 1 yr old, the wires and ends to the alternator were recently replaced and the ground strap is good. the wire to the starter from the battery is in very good condition.

so, i think perhaps a short in the starter circuit, maybe the solenoid is bad?

going to pull and swap in the starter and alternator from the other 02 and see if that helps things.

for now, i've got the car on a charger. the swap should not be too bad, certianly not as bad as it was on the e21.

thoughts on the issue?

Jon

Posted

If your volt meter is showing +14V, there is no reason to pull your alt. Check voltage at your battery with the motor not running and key off. Should be +12.6V for a fully charged lead acid battery. If it is not, then have it load tested at your local parts store (they will do this at no charge). It could also be that your starter is FUBAR.

Chris B.

'73 ex-Malaga

Posted

Battery. I had almost the same problem. I would go out and turn the key and CLICK, then nothing. Got worse and worse. My battery failed. It was 2 years old, took it back to Costco and got it replace no charge.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

Posted

+1 for battery, but check both posts, the grounds, the block- to- body ground

and the strap from the solenoid into the starter.

It's really easy with the voltmeter...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted

you need a volt meter so you can stop guessing

get some readings

12.5 + with everything off

13.5 ...14 at 4,000 rpm

no less than 11.5 during starter motor cranking

Jon - sounds like your starter ist FUBAR

-=DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CHARGER AND BATTERY

WHILE REMOVING THE STARTER MOTOR!!=-

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

Posted

Jon -

Along with the other common grounding points, check the voltage regulator screws that secure it to the fenderwell. I believe the VR needs to be grounded to the body to work properly. If the starter is indeed toast (might just be the solenoid), then now is the perfect time to upgrade to the S14 starter.

pics4122010001.jpg

If you get frustrated, please let me know and I'll gladly take the ti off your hands.

DSC_0541.jpg

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

Posted

I'll double check the regulator connections, but i'm fairly sure its the starter that is cooked. all the voltage settings are good when it is running (14V) and stopped (12.5V).

I actually already priced the M3 upgrade from Blunt but as funds are a bit tight right now I'll swap in a spare 02 starter for the time being. I think the squeek form the alt might be a bearing dying, I'm hoping its not the water pump, which is not leaking and seems to be cooling ok.

Jim, thanks for the offer to take over the work...but i think you'll be waiting a LOONNGGG time. my boys are already interested and they are only 4 and 5.

CD - the battery will probably come out for the starter work, just so I have some more elbow room in there.

thanks all for the advice,

Jon

Posted

Ok, well i dropped in a sparenstarter, which i tested before putting it in. It was actually on the other 02 so i know it is ok. After install, i decide to give it a try. Batteryball charged, 12.5 volts, headlights steady.

Turn the key: thud. Nothing. Battery dead. Again.

So, i am going to go down the massive ignition fault somewhere in the system. Too tired to look further now, it will have to wait until tomorrow.

Jon

Posted

Try a different battery. Really. Quick and easy.

Because a short that can >kill< a battery instantly has to

be drawing through wires a LOT bigger than the

2002's primary battery wires. They'd turn red, then

the battery would start to boil.

But a weak cell, internal or external connection can do

it without fuss.

If it's not the battery, you're out a lot less time than swapping

a starter took you.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted

The ignition circuit has nothing to do with the starter circuit (vis-a-vis, spinning the motor when starting). Since you have swapped in a known good starter, there is likely a problem upstream (in the wires between the starter and the battery, and the battery itself. You will need to look at the ground side of the circuit, too

Chris B.

'73 ex-Malaga

Posted

thanks for the responses.

if the negative side of the starter curcuit was grounding then wouldn't the starter spin all the time since it is switched on the negative?

the thing is, everyting is ok when the car is in "run", it only fails when i click over to "start".

I'll swap in another battery, and check all the cables and lines again but I inspected everyting during the starter swap and everthing looked good and solid.

Jon

Posted

Trust me. It's a battery. Swap em and call it good, I JUST had this happen to my 2002 everything is great until I turned the key to start. Take your battery back and have it replaced, it's under warranty.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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