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Posted

The dry ice on the interior gunk worked well for me except on the tunnel at the very back, not sure why. Most places did chip off pretty easy like others report but there were some areas that remained stubborn. And yes, I'm sure the dry ice made contact. I broke it up so it would take shape to the surface and I made sure it was pressed firmly to the surface.

I am left with a thin layer of the goo over some areas. It doesn't really scrape away. The ice doesn't seem to harden it further. I tried a sanding disk and that of course melted it and spread it around.

Anyone use anything before to get up just a thin layer? Paint stripper? Acetone?

'72 Atlantik (RIP)

'02 E46 xiT with MT!

'67 Beetle

'69 Westy

Posted

the dry ice came in a thick plastic bag, I broke it up and left it in the bag. I did not use a shop rag. It worked really well until I got to the very back of the tunnel underneath the backseat. And, it seemed pretty stubborn on the tunnel close to the stick shift as well. Those two areas seemed to be actually thinner than the material in other areas. Which made it more confusing....

'72 Atlantik (RIP)

'02 E46 xiT with MT!

'67 Beetle

'69 Westy

Posted

Lacquer thinner from the auto body supply place.

Messy as hell.

Wear a respirator.

It'll dissolve it... especially if you've already thinned it mechanically.

Lots of towels... soak them and let them sit on it.

Works for me when I'm cleaning up a patch to weld.

hth

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted

Just did this myself last week. Used some "Goo Gone" and a few stiff wire brushes. It will dissolve it but it has a really strong odor so make sure your ventilated. It took me a few rounds of apply solvent with brush, work it in with the wire brush, apply some more, wipe it down with paper towels. Kind of tedious but it worked well.

1976 2002 - sold off to a new home

1971 2002 project. Follow Me!- http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,362574/

it's not done right til I've done it twice

Guest Anonymous
Posted

Super Clean !!! A gallon at WAL 7 BUCKS

Goo Gone works good too 7 BUCKS A SPRAY BOTTLE

Posted

Think about it for a sec, the sound deading material is just petroleum based. Anything that dissolves that will work. I just used a heat gun(better than dry ice IMO, I've done both). I need a final once over with a solvent, but everything that's left can be cleaned off with a petroleum based cleaner.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Does the stuff really need to be scraped away?   Can sound-deadener go right on top?

 

I spot checked for rust clues did not see any.  

Some rust at the foot well that i got rid of.  

Posted

I believe in taking it up.  Rust happens around the plugs, under the dry old tar mats.  Water sits under them and rust happens.  Hard to know what is under it, unless it is out of the way.  

 

Your car, your call.  Photos would be helpful.  

 

If you do chip off the old material,  mineral spirits/scotch brite pads will remove the residue.

 

I would hate to have to remove the gooey new stuff.  That must be a mess.

   

Posted

I'll second Minty's response, these cars are all 40+ years old and one with no rust under the tar is going to be the exception IMHO. It's a dirty job but no to hard and you can remove 30 or 40# of old skool product fix what needs fixing and then upgrade your sound proofing you'll sleep better at night knowing the job was done right. 

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Posted

3M makes a solvent that is available off the shelf at auto parts stores and some hardware stores. It comes in 1 pt cans. It worked well on the clean-up after the dry ice on my '72. Kills a few brain cells, but for a worthwhile cause. 

Posted

Available off the shelf... as in, you do not need a prescription? ;) 

 

I don't have those cells to spare :wacko:

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There's no need for heavy duty fumes; although I am sure it works well.

Simply wet it with mineral spirits, then scrub with a scotch brite pad and it will come clean in a hurry.

Wipe that up with a rag and you are ready for final paint prep/cleaning.

008.thumb.JPG.1433af04895cc2644b26bed9d8a2a6ca.JPG

   

Posted

Mixed a few chunks of Dry Ice in some Everclear. Poured the slurry over the remaining area and then had a nice frosty drink with what was left. 

 

Talk about losing a few brain cells....

 

(Just Kidding)....

Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty and  springs an occasional leak.  Just like me. 

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