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Whats easiest way to remove rear subframe?


Guest Anonymous
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Guest Anonymous

Hi,

I've just installed my front subframe and motor/manual gearbox to another car that had an auto, i was hoping it wouldn't be the case, but the driveshaft isn't the same length. I also think that the diff ratio would be different, but i'm not too concerned about that right now, but i think i should just remove both the rear subfames and swap them over, what is the best way to do this?

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Guest Anonymous

aaah. Fun.

we did this a year or two ago, when i stuck my car sideways into a log in a motorkhana, which was firmly secured to the ground, and twisted the trailing arm and mounting tabs. It only really took a day or two to do. Actually, daddles did the best part of the work as i recall now, as I was competing on the Sunday before my uni exams began...

Of course, for all fine dtails, consult your friendly haynes etc... I seem to recall, the the first thing we did was to jack the bugger up, which was the trickiest bit. And dangerous. I seem to recall jacing the car off the subframe, as one does. Normally you stick your stands under the subframe though. The only remaining solid place we reasoned was the point where the rear diff hanger is mounted off, square channel a few inches either side. This is a really shitty place to supprot the car from, it must be said. It is a good deal higher than the diff, meaning bloody high jackstands, really close togesther. I seem to recall, the stands were on top of a pile of wide pieces of wood, like big flat bits of pine we had. Not healthy, but it got the job done. I honestly cannot rmember if we dropped the diff off, or if it came with the subframe. We kept one trailing arm, So i am guessing it came out witht the subframe, I can't remember. I think it did. Is bloody heavy, but it could have been lowewered on a trolley jack. Prolly was.

Anyhoo, if pulling the diff first to lighten every thing, do it before playing silly buggers with the stands, less time under there in that configuration the better. I am going to assume you are swapping the WHOLE rear end, trailing arms and all. pull the drums off, and remove handrake cables, withdraw the tube thing, and undo the clip things holding them to the trialing arm. Brake lines must be pulled. Undo above the subframe. Disconnect diff hanger if still there. then, pretty much all that remains is the two bigass bolts thru the rubber bushes at the ends. support the works with a jak, and undo them, lower jack. Oh yah, disconnect driveshaft is in there somewheres too :) I personally would drop the diff first too, so you can retain yours if you like,a nd it drops a fair whack o weight from your subframe. But meh, take it out with it if you,oike, and have better things to do witht he extra 4 hours or so...

Hope my ramblings make a little sense.

All the best with your exploits,

michael.

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Guest Anonymous

URL: http://www.lovingeveryminuteofit.com

Really easy, I did last year and the only problem I ran into was the e-brake cables.

Jack the car up, I supported mine at the rocker panel jack spots, jacking it up under the diff. Leave the lift there since you'll use it to lower the diff.

There are about 6 bolts holding it up. Two on the back of the diff and the ones on both sides, can't remember what they ar called. Also have to disconnect the shock and brake lines and e-brake cable. I think most of the main bolts are 17mm or 19mm and the brake lines are 14mm and 11mm. Also remember which way the springs go in there, you may want to mark them. And make sure you get them in place before lifting the sub-frame back up.

You probably have the driveshaft disconnected already but if not you'll have to unbolt the center bearing too.

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Guest Anonymous

Getting it out is easy. As noted in the other posts, support the car on the jacking points near the rear of the rockers, disconnect everything and drop it out with a floor jack. I've done this several times and the tricky part is getting it to line up to go back in. My main subframe bushings steel so that make it more difficult. Every time I put one in it seems to take lots of jockeying of the subframe to get it lined up on the long studs that protrude from the floor. Once those are lined up it's a simple task of getting it bolted up.

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