New Motor Problem

[Inka’d02]

Hey Guys,

Here's a fun one for you. I just installed a rebuilt motor in my 02. I am running 9.5:1 compression pistons and dual 40mm Weber DCOE's on a e12 head, mechanical advance dizzy with petronix... and so on.

Now here is my problem:

Number 2 cylinder not firing, based on the fact that when I pull the #2 plug wire she idles just a ruff as when all wires are in..

Things I've checked: Compression 150-160 lbs in all cylinder

Good Spark on #2 plug when I pull it out and ground it to strut stud.

Plug has fuel residue on it so I think I'm getting fuel.

Any thoughts?

If you guys think its a carb. problem is there anyone in the CT area or can anyone recommend someone who is good at debugging side drafts.

Thanks,

Andrew

[Psymon]

Hey Guys,

Here's a fun one for you. I just installed a rebuilt motor in my 02. I am running 9.5:1 compression pistons and dual 40mm Weber DCOE's on a e12 head, mechanical advance dizzy with petronix... and so on.

Now here is my problem:

Number 2 cylinder not firing, based on the fact that when I pull the #2 plug wire she idles just a ruff as when all wires are in..

Things I've checked: Compression 150-160 lbs in all cylinder

Good Spark on #2 plug when I pull it out and ground it to strut stud.

Plug has fuel residue on it so I think I'm getting fuel.

Any thoughts?

If you guys think its a carb. problem is there anyone in the CT area or can anyone recommend someone who is good at debugging side drafts.

Thanks,

Andrew

Have you called Matt at SCR in plainville?

[Tommy]

Change the #2 plug anyway. It may not spark under compression.

Tommy

[Inka’d02]

Sorry, should of mention that. This is my second set of plugs. NGK platinum

[Tommy]

After second set the problem is still in the same cylinder?

[morfiya]

i would definetly say carb problem, carbs out of sync i just went threw the same thing i bought a carb syncronizer took a lot of patience, but now smooth sailing.

[Guest Anonymous]

Had a similar problem years ago on #4 and it was a leaky intake manifold gasket. Spray some carb cleaner around it to see if idle increases.

[Inka’d02]

Yes, thought it might be a bad wire but I switched two of the wires and the problem remained in #2. When I put the plugs original I put some anti seize on them (not a lot). do you think the residue could be interrupting the ground though the block? A long shot I know.

I don't want to run the motor too much because I don't want to was the new ring out.

[nbristow01]

Check the valve adjustment on cylinder 2. If they are too tight you can have this issue. Mainly the exhaust valve

[pkbinplano]

check for vacume leak on that cylinder. Intake, vacume ports, carb etc

[Tommy]

I would try with regular NKG BP6ES (or 7), still before messing with carbs. New fancy plugs don't work well in the old fashion m10. Then if it's still #2 that doesn't fire, open and clean the carbs, check the floats etc.

I don't believe in the anti-seize theory. Leaky manifold gasket, yes if possible?

Tommy

[Inka’d02]

Checked for leaks, none. When I put my hand over number 1,3,4 intake, the motor bogs down. When I put over over 2 no change in the way it runs. However I think its safe to say we have spark in that cylinder because if i disconnect the brake booster vacuum line (which draws off of #2) and spray starter fluid in I can get it to smooth out. I am basically bypassing the carburetor at that point.

I think I need to open up the carburetor. Any idea which components I should focus on?

[pkbinplano]

pull the brake booster hose from intake and put finger over port. Idle smooth out ? Check booster hose, check if check valve in line to booster installed correctly and WORKING. Booster blown and leaking ?? Feel free to call me 469 877 2650 Paul

[Scott Sislane]

are these new carbs?

[1453aalapapa]

swap the carbs. if it goes to 4, vi-ola!