E-Brake cables and rear brake replacement

[MAD02]

Im going to be replacing the e-brake cables, rear wheel cylinders and the brake shoes this weekend. Ive never done this job before so I was seeking knowledge from those of you who have done this in the past.

Most importantly, would I need any special tools for the job? And will I need to remove the exhaust system to get at the e-brake cables? I will be using my BMW blue manual, and I do have a pressure bleeder so I will be using that for the brakes.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[Napes]

If I rember correctly there are some excellent tips and procedure outlines in the Forum Search. Just enter something like: emergency AND brake AND cable AND replacement.

The "AND" seems to be one of the querky little keys to using our search function.

Same search for wheel cylinders and shoes should lead to a wealth of info.

Bob Napier

[Beck180]

I did the hand brake lines recently. I had to remove the brake handle to reach the new cables as I def the threw.

Not sure if there is a special tool for removing and installing the spring in the drum brakes, but that thing is a bitch to reinstall. If you find a tool, let me know.

[ahlem]

This is one of those jobs that isn't too bad if the brake cables aren't rusted solid in the tubing. I have found a small vice grips with light pressure to work very well on the brake shoe springs. You don't want to distort them. If you can be very careful not to get any grease on your interior, it's good to put some into the e-brake tubes. I did this project on a 1984 318i once with rusted cables. I finally modified a slide hammer to match the threads on the cable ends and with a year's supply of penetrating oil over the course of a couple days was able to work them out.

[BillWilliams]

There are two springs and they both have there difficulties.

The smaller upper spring does not have that much tension but it is suppose to go behind the brake shoes. You can put one end in the hole and use the hook tool that comes with a pic. Put the hook pic through the hole, use a pair of small vise grips to move the spring onto the hook and pull it through the hole to secure it.

Now that big spring on the bottom has three connection points. The two ends of the spring that go in the holes and the top of the spring that gets pushed behind that keeper thing. Getting any two of the three is easy.

Getting the third point is the witch. Choose your poison. There are many ways folks go about securing that third point. Three to four hands is a good thing on this one.

[Mike Self]

1. The cable will come out of its tube either easily or will be well and truly stuck. I had one of each on my '69, and the stuck one turned out to be the plastic sheathing over the steel cable. It came loose and cracked,then bunched up inside the tube. I used a comealong attached to the cable at one end and a sturdy fence post at the other--and actually dragged the car backwards several inches (wife's foot on the hydraulic brakes, car in gear) before the cable snapped. Then I had to cut the tube to get it out. If I had access to a lift, I would have used heat to soften/melt the plastic.

BTW, if you've run out of adjustment at the e-brake handle end, you can insert a short length of 1/4 inch pipe under the adjuster nuts and gain more adjustment. The cables will stretch as much as an inch over the years.

2. You'll have to remove the e-brake handle to track the cables over the positioning sheaves, so be VERY mindful of where all the pieces go before removing. All the pieces will go flying all over the place when the pushbutton release spring lets go, and then you'll have to figure out how it goes back together. Make a sketch. It also helps to have an extra pair of hands to hold all the handle pieces in place as you replace it back on its pivoting pin...

Have fun.

mike

[742002]

I find it easier to assemble as much as possible outside of the backing plate. The springs are much easier to put in that way, then you pick of the whole thing, attached the e-brake cable and slide it all in place.

Of course I have gone to rear disks now just to get away from the damn things :/

Tyrel

[nbcbird]

Just a quick sidenote. If anyone needs to replace the handbrake internals, (spring, ratchet plate, etc. you might want to check out parts for a VW bug). I bought a repair kit for under $20, while BMW wants about $100 for the ratchet plate alone (at least for a '71).

[jstrick2002]

On 8/24/2011 at 11:04 PM, Napes said:

emergency AND brake AND cable AND replacement.