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Posted

I previously posted about my roof rack that I pieced together for around $100. It worked well, but the wood was getting weathered and I decided to do something about the fact that it really did sit just a little too high.

Before:

IMG00135-20110305-1710.jpg

After:

100_9494.jpg

100_9497.jpg

100_9493.jpg

100_9492.jpg

100_9490.jpg

Grand total for the roof rack: About $120

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Posted

Lowering the platform really seems to have helped. Looks great. Love the finish on the wood slats... nice job Clay!

Aaron

Walter: You want a toe? I can get you a toe, believe me. There are ways, Dude. You don't wanna know about it, believe me. I'll get you a toe by this afternoon--with nail polish...

Posted

Does look better lower. However, now the 4 bolts are taking the weight more so than the gutter.

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

Posted

Looks good!

Now get some tubing and cut it to length for the four bolts. hammer, or use a vice, to flatten the ends, drill some holes to make a low rail. Mondo rigidity.

Then maybe bend a small aluminum sheet for a front wind deflector too..???

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

Posted

The gutter is still taking the weight, what has changed is that the bolts now susend the rack rather than simply keep it in place. It shoul be fine. Steel likes tension and other things will break before the bolts do.

Good work clay. How many coats and to what grit is the finish? My doors have either 3 or 4 coats and were sanded to 220 and after two years still look pretty new. They face south and get plenty of rain, so I think this round should last you quite a while.

Just be glad the rack didn't have to go on a boat. You would need between 8 and 12 coats then. Not a fun job doing a 4" toe rail on a 47' boat...

J Swift
Global Formula Racing (Oregon State University)

1972 Opel GT "Mae"

Posted

It was 3-4 coats with a foam brush with 100-180 grit in between. the varnish tended to want to "puddle" on the underside, which needed to be sanded down after drying. Some evidence of that is still visible.

If I did it again, I'd brush the varnish on while the boards were hung vertically.

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

Guest Anonymous
Posted

Yep, vertical is the trick to keep the drips at bay if the pieces are small enough. However, if the piece doesn't really have a 'sacrificial' or hidden edge where the drips would be allowed to collect, thinning the varnish and doing many very thin coats will also prevent drips. Thinning also has the advantage of producing a more durable finish, because varnish is able to cure more evenly.

Hmmmm... aluminum air deflector, eh? That could be pretty cool Jason. You have to elaborate on your round-rod idea, though. I am just not able to picture whatever it is you are describing.

Clay, now we just have to see a photo of a bunch of leather and plaid suitcases tied down to the roof rack... Maybe a picknick basket too!

Posted
looks great. are u just going for looks or is this functional as well? wondering how u'd keep things from sliding off the side...

Both. I wanted a roof rack that would look close to the period and also allow me to transport lumber, luggage or whatever. Maybe most important of all, I wanted to not spend a ton of money.

Nothing will go on this roof rack without being strapped down, though!

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

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