Wheel Bearing Assemble Fail--Do over

[dogmuddybuddy]

Ok folks please don't scold me I have read all the awesome old thread with pics for wheel bearing assembly.

Background:

Front Caliper seized up so I did new brakes rotor calipers lines in the front and in the process had to remove hub assembly. Per the FAQ, Haynes and shop manual I cleaned and repacked the bearings and paid special attention to tightening the nut and cotter pin with washer. (haynes says 20ftlbs folks here say 30ftlbs and I read all the threads on RCH* not too tight cook bearings too loose trash spindles)

PROBLEM:

Got it all back together bled the brakes...they are fucking awesome highish and firm pedal....however in my test drive (end of driveway and back) There is a galloping and grinding sound in the front end. So I rechecked the bearing nut and tigtened one RCH and loosed RCH ...no difference...nothing...same sound

DIAGNOSIS:

Clearly f'ed the bearings up(I'm thinking backwards somehow?) At any rate I purchased new bearings and seals and good grease and I am going to remove and repack the bearings. whole kits 40 smackers plus a 10 spot for good green grease

QUESTION:

Other than the above summary what else should I keep in mind and who has other experiences that I shouldkeep in mind?

Sorry about the super long post but I have been scolding often for content of posts

Thankyou all in advance

Kev

[c.d.iesel]

two methods of installing the bearing races:

hammer and mandrels in correct sizes

or threaded rod with different sized plates for pulling together

the race into the hub

both are valid but both require not cocking the race, and making sure the race bottoms out in the landing inside the hub - so when you 'adjust'

and drive, the races do not move - upsetting the 'adjustment'

I wont go into adjusting the bearing tension - because it's too lengthy,

and some one should show you in person. It's a life or death situation

not to be fuched with by guessing.

There is plenty in print - even at the public library.

Auto Mechanics 101 book

the $40 + $10 is your tuition fee for learning

[Guest Anonymous]

you're sure it's the bearings and not the brake pads making the noise?

And you did follow the instruction to torque the nut to 30 ft lbs and then back off until the washer moves freely? Then go for replacing the bearings again.

[ziff73]

Yeah, in that short of a drive way test, I'd wonder about the new calipers, too. They can make a couple funny noises when you first move them... Plus the tightening and backing off properly, as mentioned.

[JLENHAM]

Whenever I do brakes I always manage to bend the thin metal backer/shield/air diverter so that the disc contacts it. Makes an awful grinding, screeching wheel falling off noise. Might be worth checking.

You would think I would learn, but is the same everytime, lower lift, back out, hear screech, curse, pull back in, up on lift, bend plate back out...

[dogmuddybuddy]

Ok check backing plate

Mechanic buddy will supervise bearing reinstall

Double check caliper

Awesome thanks for the suggestions

[dogmuddybuddy]

Ok check backing plate

Mechanic buddy will supervise bearing reinstall

Double check caliper

Awesome thanks for the suggestions

[c.d.iesel]

+figure out how to delete your DOUBLE POSTING - CK.

[NickVyse]

You've possibly got the early style 1600 struts that have smaller inner bearings. Most vendors don't know they exist (NLA from BMW but available from Walloth and Nesch) and will have sold you a standard 02 bearing set and it's easy to not notice when installing (ask me how I know).

Don't drive any further without checking this as you can fuck up the spindle bearing face.

[dogmuddybuddy]

Ok check backing plate

Mechanic buddy will supervise bearing reinstall

Double check caliper

Awesome thanks for the suggestions

UPDATE:

Bearings were fine. We rechecked them and they were just right with tightness on hub. I should have a little more confidence in myself despite lack of experience..I guess. Turns out the Caliper was rubbing slightly on the backer plate. It also turns out the hardlines I had replaced to the caliper were slightly too short and had placed some pressure on the caliper that one was a little wet. I don't know if It had anything to do with causing the rub and groan but I got slightly longer hardlines put a slightly larger loop bend. All is well now.

Thanks for the help...the calipers seem big and don't leave much room on the backer plate and hub.

Thank you for helping me trouble shoot!

Kev

[JLENHAM]

Excellent, thanks for following up on the resolution, it helps us all learn.

[73colorado02]

Hey Nick what years where those early struts in 1600's? Thanks Dylan.

[NickVyse]

I have no idea except to say I've got the small ones on my 1600-2 built Oct '67. Before I came to change them I was under the impression there were only Tii and non-tii bearings, but you learn somehting every day (as did Jaymic, who refunded me).

[PeteinMissionViejo]

Second Nick's experience with the different bearings 1600/2002. Twenty years ago I did bearings and races on the front of my 68 1600. Got the bearings and races from local car parts store. Didn't realize the sizing was slightly off and when tightening the outer nut I stripped the threads on the stub axle. I had to take the whole strut off and go to Vasek Polak in the South Bay to have them run a die over the threads.

Pete

Mission Viejo