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Royal Purple synthetic gear oil


Catman

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Is this SAE 75-90 gear oil safe in the stock 4 speed.I also want to add the Lucas syn gear oil additive.I am already using it in my LSD .It says safe in all hypoid type and LSD .It does not refer to itself as a Hypoid gear oil.Just gear oil.

This stuff is supposed to be good stuf

Catman

I did the things yesterday no one wanted to -

So I could do the things today no one else can afford.

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We only used Amzoil on the Popeyes Offshore Team I was on.As long as it will not lock up my rear end or tranny ,it has to at least meet the standards.Red Line has been around a long time.Never used the other.some of this is euro and being in american Iron for so long I have limited choices.Usually Amzoil -Castrol -Mobile1 as far as synthetics.This car has been in a garage under a cover sence 1992.Never had the oil changed in the diff.SO !!!!! anything that passes the standards and is accepted by BMW to work in that rear end or gear box should be safe.The book says ( Not a Hypoid gear oil - only branded SAE 80 gear oil ).

So back to the original question , not is Royal worth a crap , but is it safe based on the factory specified verses synthetic ?

Catman

I did the things yesterday no one wanted to -

So I could do the things today no one else can afford.

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I was hoping someome here had used it.It is my first time plus I'm addding some Lucas synthetic additive to it.So I guess that makes mine a test bed car.I thought sence it has been sitting in one spot for almost 15 years those shafts and bearings could use some TLC.One of our raceboat haulers was a International cab over with a 6v92 it sat in the IRS impound for 5 years before we got it and it was hard to shift.The IH mechanic told me that condensation forms on the bare spot on the shafts when they sit idle and that spot rusts.Making it rough between the gears where they slide.My little Getrag

( RAG ) is doing the same thing.I am going to slober it up.Mix some Royal P. with some Lucas and feel just how slick that stuf is.Lucas and Royal Purple have their names plastered all over racing these days.It's working for someone.

I did the things yesterday no one wanted to -

So I could do the things today no one else can afford.

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Thanks - the engineer I work with mentioned the same thing.I am hoping that this loosens this up some.I have rebuilt all of the shifter components.When I started on this project both isolator mounts had no rubber or metal bushing.Just a 1/4 20 bolt with a lock nut on each one - same thing on the strut.You could bang the sides of the tunnel with it looking for 1st.Now it feels like clicking a brand new Snapon ratchet thru every flick of the knob ( hand turned black walnut by the way) I have pictures and will post this soon.

I will mix the two oils as per directions and see what happens - I can drain it and put it in my hotrod if it fails.

Catman

I did the things yesterday no one wanted to -

So I could do the things today no one else can afford.

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The original specs of SAE 80 gear oil was classed as a GL-1 lube (On the street called straight mineral oil). That's what gear boxes of that vintage and back used. SAE 40 engine oil is a substitute and is slightly thicker at rated temp than SAE 80 gear oil. Two numbering systems were used so not to get confused at the shelf level.

Later more loading on the same sized gears came along and GL-4 lubes appeared which have some expteme pressure additives, but not the chlorine compounds that hypoid oils have (you can smell it from 20 ft away). Hypoid gearsets have a wiping action that in the early days, wore quickly and the chlorine compounds were developed to plate onto the gear faces. The wiping action wears off the film, but is quickly replaced.

Modern hypoid compounds may work in the trans that originally forbid hypoid lubes, but I'm not one to experiment and have to overhaul a gearbox just to be out in front of those who choose a GL-4 transmission/transaxle lube such as Amsoil's MTG or MTF or the redline product. Buy a PAO base synthetic, it's a Group IV lube, the cheap synthetics are Group III hydrocracked mineral oil (that can't be egally called synthetics in Europe). Do your homework first!

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Well thats why Im asking you guys.I am havING trouble filling in the blanks.I read the owners manual-and the specs page on the dvd.The bottle of Royal Burple and said maybe someone on the 02 site might know.So are you saying it is compliant or non compliant.The front of the container says I think GL-1 thu 4 ,its at home I'm at work. I have done everything but call Royal Purple .You sound like you know what your talking about.

Give me the straight poop - I can take it-yes or no.What da u say!

I did the things yesterday no one wanted to -

So I could do the things today no one else can afford.

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Thanks - I got it this tranny uses a much thinner lube in comparison to M22 or a top loader muscle car type tranny.I had a gear venders overdrive on my Dually it used Dexron.I saw in the owners manual these same results it was the Gl designations that were throwing me off.Thanks guys Im new here you will get to know me .I am a 58 year old Autocad designer for the largest Airbag manufacturer in the US.This is not my first car but it is my first 74' 2002 and Im not to proud to ask for help.Thanks for the imput.

Catman

I did the things yesterday no one wanted to -

So I could do the things today no one else can afford.

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