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rocker panel sanity check needed


///mChris

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All,

I took off my rocker panel trim and found 4 quarter size rust spots. I need to decide what to do to fix them. I have a tig welder so can do all the welding myself. I need a sanity check to help keep me from falling off the deep end. It really bothers me that I can't jack up the car without the doors not shutting right. I'd really like to add bracing.

option 1. cut 4x8" sheet and fix effected area (cost pennies)

option 2. Since there is probably more rust inside that I can't see, replace entire rocker ($100). Of course you have to remove part of the rear fender, which requires a patch panel to fix.($50) Since I'm in there I may as well do the cabrio rocker bracing ($20).

option 3. Since I replace the drivers side, I may as well do the passenger side bracing, $100+50+20.

All said and done if I go nuts the sheet metal is only $350 or so..

Since I am painting.. Does it make sense to do this all now?

post-615-13667646151629_thumb.jpg

post-615-13667646152597_thumb.jpg

1968 BMW 1600 US VIN 1560713

manufactured on October 2nd, 1967

http://mybmw1600-2.blogspot.com/

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Chris,

I think you answered your own question. Sounds like you really want the bracing to stiffen the car, so that's pulling both rockers no matter what. And you know that where there is visible rust there is more you can't see. And you are painting the car (unclear if whole car), and the last thing you want to see is rust bubbles appearing 6 months after you had it painted. I think you see where I am going. You have the ability to do the work and the cost is reasonable. So do it right the first time--you'll be happy you did!

Of course if you just put in a full cage it would eliminate your issue with body flex, but that is another post..... :)

Best, Fred '74tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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How does the floor connect to the rockers? It looks like the rockers for a 2002 are made of two halves. I can see the seam made up of the two lips on the bottom of the car, but can't tell how the floor attaches. Does it have a lip that is folded up and welded to the lip of the rocker?

Ian

Ian
'76 M2

'02 325iT

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A word of warning: It will easily lead to insane amount of work which is not worth it just for extra bracing. You need to determine how much rust there really is. If you can get rid of it with just couple of patches - do it.

Fitting new rockers, even oem, is some serious work. Patch panel to rear quater will be even harder. Quality of patch panels is always crap. Welding the seam while keeping the side straight - well you may be skilled enough for that since you have tig and all... Then protecting all the welds against rust is not that easy - result may be even more prone to rust.

Then again, if there is more rust it's the only way to go. Maybe looking in with a cheap endoscope would help the decision...?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-USB-MINI-Inspection-Camera-Home-Endoscope-Borescope-/330590073311#vi-content

Tommy

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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Good call with the mini- camera.

I've replaced an outer rocker, and it's not THAT bad. The rear quarter

is easy IF you can leave the factory bends and just replace the rocker part.

If it's nasty inside, do it. It's a shit- ton of work, but compared to blocking

primer, it's a lot more fun. And faster. Pleasantly, you don't have to

go too nuts with finish, as you'll chip- guard it.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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My car has some rust at both rockers, but an inspection with a borescope (through the rust hole) shows the inside is clean. I also suggest checking that out before creating a bunch of extra work for yourself. The time and effort can go somewhere else in the car. If you end up needing rockers I have a set in LA.

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Hi Chris - Yes I did the boroscope thing too. Drilled a 1.5" hole in the extension of the rocker panel, on the horizontal section, 5" from the extreme rear, accessible when you remove the rear seat and the side panel. Hole allows really good access for rust proofing too.

Mal

71 2002(late 6 Fuse)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have an endoscope from that I got on ebay to use as a borescope. I'll have to put it in and see what I see. A couple of things that I do know. Both of my rear oem jack points seem to have caved in. The doors are move so much that you can't open or close the doors when on a lift.

There is an access hole on the inside sill of the car. I'll take a look.

1968 BMW 1600 US VIN 1560713

manufactured on October 2nd, 1967

http://mybmw1600-2.blogspot.com/

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