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AceAndrew

M20 Triple weber build x2

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Curious.

-how do the IE CV joints compare to the ones lajolla independant has been selling for a while?

-any thoughts on having e21 CV joints made to mate with e21 diff conversions?

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Just tried posting but ... "unable to access network"  error popped up.

 

Andrew - the BMW boot kits I got from BLUNT in March 2012 included new flanges and end caps.

IMG_7296.jpg

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(edited)

Just tried posting but ... "unable to access network"  error popped up.

 

Andrew - the BMW boot kits I got from BLUNT in March 2012 included new flanges and end caps.

IMG_7296.jpg

 

Jim, I forgot to mention the OEM option, thanks for pointing it out. Those are oem boot kits available at your local dealer.  There are a handful left (less than 50) in Germany.  Not sure what the pricing was two years ago when you got them from Steve, but the price has been creeping up; currently list price is at $56 each.  Couldn't justify it when the nice Rein's are sitting at $12 each.

 

Curious.

-how do the IE CV joints compare to the ones lajolla independant has been selling for a while?

-any thoughts on having e21 CV joints made to mate with e21 diff conversions?

 

-Marshall, IE was selling the same ones for a bit (getting them from the same source).  They were ok, If you are curious to my quibbles, shoot me a quick email.  On the IE pieces, we have a more direct control over the manufacturing of the part rather than call a wholesaler and cross our fingers on quality and availability (something I'm trying to get away from more, given we aren't seeing many parts being reproduced by the traditional aftermarket once the existing stock is dried up).

 

-As for E21 CV's, two main reasons.  1)The market just isn't big enough. 2) Given it's not a critical piece and becomes redundant with the use of more cost effective and proven spacers there isn't much need.

Edited by AceAndrew

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Maybe you can cc me on your email response to Marshall- I have 4 CV joints purchased from LaJolla Independent and am getting ready to assemble the axles (my old ones from the 69 are beat).

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dont think i was subscribed to this anymore but now I am! Looking great Andrew.

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I don’t have much free time again, so this will be kind of jumbled together.  Cylinder head rebuild is finally done!  Working on another piston option that should be kind of neat (hint: involves Mahle Motorsport)!

Cylinder head rebuild (strangely this was spread out over a year-ish)

Goals: In line with everything else, going for a fun hot-rod 91octane street engine.  The idea was to port-match the exhaust ports while cleaning up both the intake and exhaust bowels.  

New parts list
-IE 284/272 dual-pattern new cam
-IE HD Rockers
-oem dual valve springs
-valve guides
-IE SS Intake Valves
-IE SS Exhaust Valves
-OEM Rocker Shafts
-Elring Upper Gasket Set
-rocker hardware+eccentrics
-OEM Oil sprayer bar
-OEM Spring retainers (top and bottom)
-OEM valve cover studs (with M30 acorn nuts) Intake Studs (with thin IE 11mm nuts)
-Allen-head exhaust studs w/ copper nuts
-Freeze plugs

Tools:
Die Grinders
6”mandrell
carbide bits
80 grit cartridge rolls
120 grit cartridge rolls
rubber hammer
Bearing, Seal, and Race Drivers Kit
wrenches/sockets

First thing was sending the head to the machinist to have the guides punched out, head checked for cracks and warping, and lastly cleaned!

Port matching the exhaust side

Pretty straight forward.  Painted the port with some trusty dykem lay-out fluid, 2)lined up a head gasket and scribed the ID with an exacto knife.

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Started with a pretty beefy carbide bit,  as long as I kept it lubed it made short work of the aluminum.

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Next I wanted to clean up the intake and exhaust bowels.  Mainly the casting ridges you can see here and the small edge immediately inside the short side of the port (you can feel it pretty easily when hooking your finger in there.

You can see how this was MUCH easier with the guide removed.  

Casting ridges
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First pass with the carbide bit

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Stepped it up to 80 grit cartridge rolls on the end of a 6” Mandrel

Ended up with a 120 grit and went ahead and polished the combustion chambers for good measure.

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Next step was sending the head back to the machinist with new guides and valves.  The machinist then did a nice 3-angle valve job, punched in the new guides, and resurfaced the head.

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Before dropping off at the machinist.

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After picking the head up from the machinist.

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From this point it was all basic reassembly work.

Valve Stem seals went back in using the little sleeves supplied in the upper gasket set to keep the valve edges from cutting into the seal.  Using the OEM stem-seal tool was kind of neat, didn’t know it existed..
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On to the new springs, retainers and collets.  Broke out the spring compressor.  Compressed spring/retainer right before slipping the collets in.

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Cam’s turn.

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Rockers and rocker shafts were next.  I could slide all of one bank on pretty quick.  Pushing in the second shaft however meant that I was going to reach a point where the cam would need to be rotated for the rocker to go on.  

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Made up a handy head stand from some aluminum around the shop (in hindsight I should have moved the dowels farther forward).

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Kind of neat but the M20’s rocker shafts are interchangeable from intake to exhaust while those found in the M10 and M30 are not.  Rotated the shafts and snapped the rocker retainer clips in place.

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Last major step, studs, oil sprayer bar, freeze plugs, cam seal/o-ring.

When installing the seals and or freezeplugs...
1) On the OD of the seal, run a thin layer of good gasket sealer (I like Dirko).
2) On the ID of the seal, run a smear of good synthetic wheel bearing grease.

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Already to go!  

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After thinking long and hard about it I made the call to switch to throttle bodies instead of carbs.  My dcoe manifold wasn’t panning out and the more measurements I took the more I realized that carbs just wouldn’t work without compromising somewhere.

Went ahead and picked up a Racehead 40mm ITB setup.

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With the ITB’s in hand I wanted to at least replicate the look of an old Alpina setup (red stacks, grey valve cover).  Sent the parts of to Nick at Rodini up in Fremont for powdercoating.  

Once the bits were back from powdercoating I mocked up the new setup ….

IrelandEngineeringM20final_zps2eacb429.j

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Awesome direction change. Will this be a performance upgrade over the carbs? Its been said that the cost to go ITB's is fairly high with small gains. I am wondering if this is true. This is going to sound sweet.

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In a general matter, ITB´s will provide performance gains over a single throttle body, as well as quicker response. As all else, how much difference is dependent on how good the current system is in regard to how good it could be. A high-output engine will benefit more from ITB´s than a stock engine. So a stock M20 might gain 10 hp over the stock "medusa-style" intake. A race-modded M20 might gain 30 hp, because the intake was the limiting factor. Although, the medusa-style intake is regarded to be pretty good, so there is not a lot of performance gains to be had. Now, ITB´s over DCOE carbs, that is a different animal completely. It is the difference between 50 year old technology and the latest technology. You might not get a lot more power up top, but a flatter curve, better fuel economy, better cold starts are just some of the bentfits. 

 

This is a great build, I really enjoy following it. 

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Thanks Vince, Rust, and Joe.  I'll hopefully keep this thing moving along ..... sllloooowwwlllyyy.

 

Vince, 

Rust did a good job covering most of it.  In the end though, I actually rather have the carbs.  One or two ponies sacrificed in the name of analog goodness is well worth it in my opinion.  The problem was there was just no good way to have them go in without compromising something I didn't want to compromise.  IF I wanted newer tech, I would have bought a newer car.  These will hopefully be a good middle ground though.

 

The decision was also made much easier by Jeff picking up a new shop car for us to tinker with.  Apparently Jeremy helped put it together some 15 years ago.  I'm thinking some tall stacks through the hood would be fun ( a la gasser).

 

IMG_21892_zps949bc1eb.jpg

 

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The first and only time I visited your Shop that car was almost complete. Cool it has made its way back to Ireland. The down draft Weber carbs work for me. I am consuming as much info as my Old brain will let me for my future build. I have a m20b23 from a 323i and I am considering that as my base power plant. Since my BMW knowledge is limited at this point I am not sure about a short stroke engine and how it would work. I like the Idea of a 323 crank, larger pistons, big cam and webers. This worked great on my Porsche. 2.4 case - larger pistons and 906 cams with IDF carbs. What a sound that made.

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For the steering box assembly, Does anyone know the orientation of the joint flange relative to TDC of the worm gear shaft? Pictures I have seet have the bolts parallel to the sub frame when the steering box is TDC.

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Great read and great thread, Andrew! Also was nice talking to you on the phone the other day. My build will be NOTHING as legit as yours. Good luck

 

*thumbs up*

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Alright, stuff has been happening!

 

Top of the list is pistons. As you will recall I did go through all the work on making nice offset dish pistons with Ross, but I always felt a bit off about it.

 

I want an engine that will be able to run 200k and that just wont happen with traditional forged pistons. I also wanted something that had the same piston to bore clearance as stock (eliminating piston slap and oil blow-by on startup) but not be brittle like a cast or 4032 alloy.

 

Fortunately last year Jeff sent me to SEMA and I got to talk to the guys at MahleMotorsport. They had this neat new forging alloy called M142 that offered just the balance I wanted. They've been using it on the Z06 engines for a bit and on a number of other high-performance apps.

 

Fast forward through the development period and we ended up with a very tidy piston! Slipper skirts, cnc'd offset dish, graphal coated skirts, phosphate coated, no pin encroachment on the oil ring, powerpack rings, etc.

 

They are speced for 84mm stroke, 85mm bore, 10:1 comp. 

 

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Right now I've got the block at the machinist to double check things before offering them publicly.

 

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Fiddling around with the itb's I've found the Nuke fuel rail won't clear the linkage when running the Type 3 injectors. I have the option of using Type 2's (and the nuke rail) or the type 3's (and the stock rail).

 

http://s142.photobucket.com/user/turbonium240/media/personal%20pics/IMG_2908_zps1plmr2du.jpg.html'>IMG_2908_zps1plmr2du.jpg[/url]

 

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Next up, seeing that the drivetrain is FINALLY almost finished I've started breaking down the car! The engine will be mocked up and new holes cut prior to starting the serious body work.

 

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Thankfully for the paint, Ayed at Kings Autobody has offered his expertise! One less headache. This is what I'm shooting for when finished. Colorado Orange, clean and simple.

 

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I've set a deadline to have the car finished by next year's Monterey Historics (BMW will be the featured mark, and the week following the BMWCCA will have it's OCTOBERFEST there). Should be quite the time.

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Looking great man! I too have on the move with my tii again. My deadline is November to run it in a cannonball style rally. Got a really long way to go still

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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