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M20 Triple weber build x2

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Thanks Joel and Kid, appreciate it.  Our second son is now here, rather than put on classical music for him, he gets to listen to LeMans.




Since I won't be running the E30 ECU it left me with 2 options for ignition


1) Use the 323i distributor  

2) Use some sort of distributorless ignition


Using the 323i Distributor had a couple downsides I couldn't get over. The wires would make everything look cluttered since they would be routed all the way over the engine. The cap would likely interfere with my manifold. No real tuning options if I want to fiddle around.


So I went option 2, in the form of a wasted-spark distributorless ignition setup. Rather than going with a Mega-jolt (would have to somehow affix a smaller 36-2 trigger wheel to the crank) or a Electromotive Xdi (not quite as versatile and rather spendy) I opted to go with a Megasquirt setup with the intention of running it only for ignition and a wide-band 02.  This'll give me a completely adjustable ignition curve, high-output coils, and the option of running additional data tracking from the MS box.




For wire routing with the wasted spark setup I wanted something that looked factory and not messy. Asked our ignition wire supplier to send me a set of disassembled 325i 8mm wires with longer, uncut, ends along with the HEI boots. I dremeled an opening on the other end of the loom and reversed the wire order (shrink wrap wire numbers were a nice bonus).




Mocked up on an extremely accurate engine bay reproduction .... if anybody else is running a wasted spark setup I have made these a repeatable part number with our supplier so just let me know (can also use the EDIS boots if needed).





-WhodWho-prepared Megasquirt

-Coil packs (MSD #8224)

-Spark plug wires (email for part number info)

-Trigger sensor (stock)

-Trigger wheel (stock)

-Innovate wideband 02 sensor

-GM DIS coil baseplate

-Base plate mounting plate (I'll need to fabricate something)

-Crimping tool (MSD #3503)










Edited by AceAndrew

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Congrats on the family addition andrew!


Thanks Marshall, have a good Christmas.  This'll be our second and last (barring any future accidents)!



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M20 Oil System

Since I'm doing a stroker engine with forged internals and other fancy bits I'll be running an oil cooler.  I think of it as good  insurance.  
Original Goal:
To run a remote oil filter in conjunction with an oil cooler.  

Issues and solutions:
-Remote filter mount so I didn't have to get cramped squeezing my arm  past the narrower '02 frame rail, suspension bits, and tubular headers  when I need to reach the oil filter. (solved by the remote filter bloc)
-Add more clearance between oiling system and the hot headers (solved by 90' Rotating Remote Filter Adapter)
-off-engine mounting provisions for the oil pressure and oil temp gauge senders (solved by the remote filter block)
-Use a thermostat for the oil cooler since this is a street car (solved by the thermostatic sandwich filter)

Running a 19 row Setrab oil cooler.  Canton Remote filter adapter and  mounting block, and an Earl's thermostatic sandwich filter.  Also  running the fancy braided fabric AN lines and fittings.

If anyone would like the parts list, just PM or email me.

Here's a rough layout I drew up to better illustrate what's going on.


Layed out


I'll try and mount the cooler behind the front passenger side headlight, similar to the #13 car, just on the other side.


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looks like same oil cooler i am running.  your location is where it was located in the car i bought with the S14.  problem with that location is there is no air flow.  some air gets to the front of the cooler (obstructed by the headlight) but it has nowhere to go behind the cooler. i opted for front and center in the grill where there is air flow and the elec fan can pull some air through the cooler when at low speed and fan is in use.  i also used the push lock hoses.  much easier to work with than braided hoses, but maybe not as pretty.... :)




each car is different, you may have some other design considerations that are forcing the sub-optimal location...just a thought.  you could also cut a hole in the nose behind the cooler to let the air outflow go to the wheel well, but your car may be too pretty for that!

Edited by mlytle

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So I'm moving at a snails pace right now but finished a couple more bits, namely the brake booster support area and the pedal box.


First up was the booster pivot lever, thanks to Marshall's encouragement I drew it up in solid-works and had them spit out on a cnc lathe.  Since the sleeve was much longer than the pedal sleeves, it took a little extra effort to press it in (TIP: make sure the ID of the pivot is very well cleaned prior to pressing in the sleeve, there was some persistent build up on mine that took some work with a cartridge roll to clean out).  When pressing in the sleeve try and use a material softer that aluminum, a wooden dowel worked perfect for me.
To contact the inner bearing race while not binding on the outer bearing ring while under tension I ended up having a bunch of specifically sized washers zapped out of stainless (searched up and down for an off-the-shelf washer to no avail).
Used the spacer washers on both ends of the bearings.  A tiny dab of grease on the washers helped them stick to the bearings, making easier to slide the bolt through the booster support and the pivot (replaced the nla outer washers with some big jobbies from Mcmaster-carr).
 I'm using an E12 brake master which meant I can run the E30/E21 brake fluid resivour directly on top of the master.  This should clean up the engine bay a bit more (guessing the fuel regulator will fit nicely in the stock fluid resivour went).  Mocked it all up for giggles along with a coupe of the brake hardlines.
Next up was the pedal box (courtesy of a fellow faq member [thanks again!]).  Box was powder coated black and I cad plated all the bits.
Used the billet sleeves on the pedals, this shows the spacing I used (one spacer washer between the major components).   We had 3 other boxes laying around the shop and for each one the overall length between the bolt support arm and the side of the pedal box.  I'm chalking it up to production tolerances.  Tightened the bolt up just until it started to bind the pedals, then backed off until the pedals moved freely.
Nearly all tidied up.
Mocked everything up together and then took them apart, covered them in saran wrap, and put them in boxes until I'm ready for the.
In other news, I'm doing the transmission rebuild this weekend with Rob @ Rids!  Quite fortunate to have him show me the ropes on this one.  I'll tae pictures, but there won't be a full tutorial on this one.

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Thanks David and Marshall,  In much dirtier and much more interesting news this last Saturday was spent with Rob at his shop.

Little preview before I can put together a more thorough post....



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I love this thread....


thanks for sharing it.



look at those Libre wheels on that Z....so cool.

Edited by jrkoupe

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Thanks guys!  Things have been moving at a snail’s pace.  A couple months ago I took over my mother-in-law’s mortgage and moved our family in after she lost her job.  Upside is that I now have a place to work on the car and the kids get a back yard to play in.



The car hasn’t been driven in a couple months; I managed to tap the front end bad enough to warrant a nose replacement.  This led to being a good time to start stripping the car for M20 mock up prior to bodywork/paint. 



Still doing projects and collecting parts.


Recently picked up a NOS 6-fuse cover, these little guys are hard to find!




Working on a set of axles, Jeff has contracted an OEM CV-joint manufacturer to make us new 2002 CV’s.  The prototypes are done and approved.  The first batches are almost ready.



Edited by AceAndrew

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The car hasn’t been driven in a couple months; I managed to tap the front end bad enough to warrant a nose replacement. This led to being a good time to start stripping the car for M20 mock up prior to bodywork/paint.

Not to distract too much from the main topic here, but where do you plan on sourcing a new nose? Mine is crunched too from a PO and would like to replace someday soon, depending on cost. I figure with the engine out, it's easiest to do. Dealership wants over 1k and no returns if something is wrong with it!

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Leit,  I know this is a while ago but I found a good nose from a local guy down in San Diego a couple months back. 


Hopefully I'll have some good updates over the next couple days....


BMW 2002 Rear Axle Rebuild

With the new production CV’s finally ready to go I broke down and rebuilt an old grimy set of axles for the 2002.  Below I just covered the basics.


x4 New IE CV joints

x4 New Rein boot kits

Zinc-plated hardware (caps, u-washers)


x1,000 Disposable Gloves

x1,000,000 shop towels

Exacto knife

Flathead screw driver

Philips screw driver

High-temp Paint

Rubber hammer

Circlip pliers

What I started with:





1)   First step was slitting the boots, taking them off, and cleaning some of the grease off.

**If you want to get a rough estimate as to the condition of your existing axles prior to disassembly take an axle, put one end on the ground and place the palm of your hand on the other end.  Pivot the top CV with your palm, if it feels chunky like a bag of marbles this is not a good sign.

2)  Removed the back plates gently with a flathead screw drivers, do it slow or you’ll screw them up.

3)  Clear off the grease around the retaining circlip and remove it.  Once removed you will be able to separate the CV from the axle.  Most (but not all) 2002 axles used a bell washer behind the CV (see Toby’s note http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/61560-cv-joint-washer-gone/).  Contrary to what I saw mentioned elsewhere, this washer is NOT specifically sized to the axle/cv.  If your axles have it, then reuse it.  If not, then don’t use it.

At this point pull off the inner cap from the CV face, again take care to not damage it.

4)  With everything disassembled I cleaned/plated/painted all the bits to be used on the reassembly.  From the old axles this means the shaft, the cv caps, the bell washers, and the circlips.



New/refreshed laid out for reassembly.



After cleaning I laid everything out for reassembly.  Note that the reason that I reused the old CV-caps is that new boot kits no longer include them and I haven’t yet found a suitable replacement.

5) Assembly order (with minimizing mess-making in mind).  

  1. Slip new boots/clamps loosely onto the shaft

  2. Pack the inner side of the CV with grease and tap on the inner cap completely (use a couple old bolts to help line up the holes).

  3. Using a rubber hammer gently tap the CV onto the shaft (don’t forget the bell washer if it’s the side where it came off of).

  4. Once the CV is fully seated, reinstall the circlip, pack the backside with grease and tap the rear cover back on.

    *This maybe obvious but be sure there is no play between the splines of the CV and shaft.  If you have play, then something is going on with your shaft and you shouldn’t use it.



  1. Put a bit more grease around the inner cap and then slide the boot over.  Snug the boot clamps down (take care to not don’t over-tighten or block an axle nut hole with the clamp’s worm mechanism).

  2. Repeat 4 more times!

**During assembly a good trick is to use a very thin smear of Dirko (or your preferred brand) gasket sealer on the sealing surfaces to prevent grease leaks (rear cap, front cap face, boot mating surfaces).

All ready to go:



Edited by AceAndrew

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