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Lee

Massive - Aluminum race gaz pedal on hinge, w/ bearing

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Primary goals were threefold

1. Getting rid of the teflon strips, which is why I used a bearing

2- The annoying problem of rubber pedals popping out. Racers know what I mean. ;-)

3. Easier heel and toe thanks to the extension

Leverage is not related to the pedal itself, but to the lever on the side of the pedal box.

I figured that was the goals of the pedal, but I was just curious as to if maybe it could provide daily driving with a little bit more manueverability and control I guess. My gas pedal linkage itself feels a bit sticky and I wish could be more smooth in general. I assume a lot has to do with the actual linkage itself, but every friction point that can be eliminated should help I am guessing. That is why I was curious about the aluminum bearings for the pedalbox as well.

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for those that have installed them...

has anyone run into the "pothole" issue? by that i mean that the holes drilled in the pedal are bigger than the width of the roller bearing. when the pedal is depressed, the bearing rolls into the "potholes" resulting in very interupted pedal feel. see below pic, you can see the bearing in a "pothole".

DSCN5013.jpg

also, if you are installing in carpeted car and raise the pedal up to clear it, the guide you bend on the back will be too high to allow the pedal to come back to idle. to fix you can adjust the linkage, or drill a few holes to lower the location of the guide.

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Aluminum is denser than wood and will resonate at a much lowere frequency. Also, the fins are sandwiched between the top and bottom wood plates. In regard of compression drivers, I like them too ;-) The JBL 2445mid compression drivers hidden behind the 2350 mid horn weights 30 something lbs...

DSCN0533.jpg

DSCN0534.jpg

wot, as a DIY audio fanatic and electronic guru, i would like to get some more details on your set-up...what kind of folded horn woofers is that ? i made myself a very long folded horn woofer from Bill Fitz plans...mated to a home made D class amp and Naim audio preamp and a Technics SL2000...gota love 70's stuff !! i also have a very old vintage 70's Pioneer tuner/amp that i love to death.

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fixed the pedal...

DSCN5018.jpg

and took for test drive. Lee's pedal mechanism works great! the attachment on bottom and the roller bearing make throttle application MUCH smoother than the stock pedal. this is a highly recommended mod!!! everyone needs one!

unfortunately I had to make a new pedal surface without holes in it as the holes in the original face are too big. the roller bearing has a smaller width than the holes in the pedal, so it falls into the holes as it rolls across the surface.

i would suggest next generation pedals either have no holes near where the roller goes, or use a hole diameter less than the bearing width so it doesn't fall into them.

i would also recommend the holes for the retainer bracked be drilled about an inch lower than they are. current location appears to work well for race car with no carpet, but as you raise the pedal to clear carpet, the bottom of the bracket prevents the pedal from returning to idle. adjusting the throttle linkage to accomodate the issue is the wrong solution. drilling a couple more holes for a lower bracket position is.

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I'll be installing my pedal soon, hope not to encounter similar problems. (note: I have seen pedal linkages with distinctly different shapes, will post photos if I still have them).

Q: Did Lee offer to fix / correct / refund ? He has a rep as a stand-up seller, yet modifications like required for your install suggest a product not ready for release. -KB

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i did not ask for, nor am concerned with replace/refund. it was not a big deal to make a new pedal surface. i appreciated the design thought he put into the "guts" of the mechanism and am happy to be an "early adoptor" of his stuff and provide input to improve it. he build it off one he did for his race car. just needs a few street car installs to test the application.

interesting the mention of different shaped throttle rods. i have several and they are all identical. if there are indeed different versions, then then pedal surface design would need to accomodate.

the 02 market is not a big one, but with a few tweeks, this could be a mod everyone should do. a version that does not have the extra wing on the top left and that is anodized black would be a great addition for the pure street folks who want a mechanism that works a ton better than the stock setup, yet looks more subdued.

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Well, I ran into some issues as well with my installation, the feel is far superior to the stock unit! Is a carpeted car as well!

my pedal is positioned in a way that the bearing is always in contact with the smooth face of the pedal and the L shape bracket prevents it from shifting towards the Swiss cheese holes. But I still need to figure out a way to let the pedal return to full idle, which might prompt me to different problems!

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drill new holes for the retainer bracket an inch lower than the existing holes, mount it there, and your idle return problem will dissappear.

look at where the holes in the lee pedal are vs where the bolt heads in my version are and you can see the location difference.

it appears like new holes cannot be utilized w/ the orig pedal surface as there is a hole about 1 inch lower( Im looking at the lower mount hole)......so a new surface would have to be used to reposition the retaining brkt....?,...hmmm

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Well, I ran into some issues as well with my installation, the feel is far superior to the stock unit! Is a carpeted car as well!

my pedal is positioned in a way that the bearing is always in contact with the smooth face of the pedal and the L shape bracket prevents it from shifting towards the Swiss cheese holes. But I still need to figure out a way to let the pedal return to full idle, which might prompt me to different problems!

any installed pics?....

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drill new holes for the retainer bracket an inch lower than the existing holes, mount it there, and your idle return problem will dissappear.

look at where the holes in the lee pedal are vs where the bolt heads in my version are and you can see the location difference.

it appears like new holes cannot be utilized w/ the orig pedal surface as there is a hole about 1 inch lower( Im looking at the lower mount hole)......so a new surface would have to be used to reposition the retaining brkt....?,...hmmm

the holes for the retainer bracket can be flexed around a bit. lee made it way longer than it needs to be. that allows for some movement. the pedal travel is actually only about half the retainer length. you can play with it a bit to see where it works. i also had to flip it 180deg so the "l" went the opposite way from the temp install thet the pedal came with.

had the car out driving more...lee's mechanical design is awesome.

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