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Lee

Massive - Aluminum race gaz pedal on hinge, w/ bearing

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BTW be assured that everyone from this GB will receive within 4 or 5 weeks a replacement delrin bushing machined with fine tolerances to replace the actual aluminum hinge supplied in the kit. I found the aluminum system was fine for a racecar but also that I could also improve on it. ;-) That bushing will be produced after I have finished with another long term project. I am making improved reproductions of vintage 2397 JBL horns for medium frequencies. I am currently having some aluminum fins (to go inside the wood horns) machined, after a two month battle against adversity... ;-) All the wood work is CNC machined too.

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Original 2397 JBL horn

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are those all our bushings holding the horn apart in the first pic Lee? :-)

nice work!

Don't worry. The aluminum spacers are unrelated to 2002 kits. They belong to the adapters for Recaro seats into e30 cars. 3mm aluminum spacers.

Lee

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got mine in mail today. can't wait to install!

I still have three units here that are paid for and cannot be shipped due to the postal strike ;-) Plus a last one for JrKoupe who missed the forums thread updates ;-)

Here are a few tips for the install.

1. The thin bracket on the back must be folded at 90°. It is the retainer to keep the pedal from tilting toard the driver (just as with a stock pedal). Play should be around 1mm. if you need more, then fit small washers between the bracket and the pedal.

2- The bearing shall fit snuggly over the 8mm pedal rod. After fing the ideal position, you may ant to put a little tab of goo on the rod to keep the bearing from changing location if it is loose.

3- The bolts at the base can have the domed head toward the front if you need more angular movement.

4- You slightly file/slot the last layer of aluminum strip if you need more angular movement.

5- Carpeted cars may want the pedal extended fully upward (slotted holes). Racecars may want it fully down. Have fun and modify whatever you need. Let us know what you did... ;-)

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Leaving for Mid-Ohio on tuesday am..... I hope i get mine on Monday!!!!

Bob

They left the same day. They should arrive on Monday.

Little follow-up to the project pictured above. Aluminum fins on mids horns. I picked the fins today and mocked one half horn.

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JBL_fins_2.jpg

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Damn Lee,

That is very impressive. I do love the sound of a good compression horn but I have been quite happy with the focal tioxid (tc90tdx and the 120) tweeters in a number of my ghetto designs... While they do not have the range of the horns they certainly extend the frequency range over standard fare and are very life like.

Any concerns with resonance of the aluminum fins?

KC

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Aluminum is denser than wood and will resonate at a much lowere frequency. Also, the fins are sandwiched between the top and bottom wood plates. In regard of compression drivers, I like them too ;-) The JBL 2445mid compression drivers hidden behind the 2350 mid horn weights 30 something lbs...

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WOW!!

That is quite the rig!

If I'm not mistaken that is a sl-1100, very cool. I sold mine a few years back... still miss it since it had a very nice SME arm. Since then I've been using a modified 1200mk2 with a variety of preamp designs off of the net.

Are you exclusively using the 2496 as a crossover, or are you running passives? I bought one a few years back but never used it outside of my car setup. Now that it is torn apart I've been thinking about putting the original power supply back in and using it with my small setup in my computer room.

KC

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Yup. You have good eyes. Mid 1970s Technic SL1100a. This turntable is heavier than the SL1200mk2 and even less prone to feedbacks.

I run the front system with the DCX 2496 (top left), and run a few subs off a CX3400 (bottom right).

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Lee,

thank for the quality products you make, i was in on the initial group buy of the Gaz pedal and thought i would relate some first impressions.

Item arrived earlier in the week, very fast shipping i must say, appearance of pedal is great and has a quality "feel" to it.

Prior to install i cleaned and made sure the pedal area was clean and free of any pebbles and such that end

up in that area. There was some excess padding that i cut away and made sure the factory stand offs were easily accessable.

Currently i do not have a pedal at all and had covered the two stand offs. i cleaned the shaft were the bearing fits on and was able to slide on the bearing. i used some emry cloth to clean any burs and such. Bearing went on tight and slid it on with about 1/8 of shaft sticking out.

The pedal retaining arm was installed and positioned it all the way in to the inside position and tightened it down and bent it up to a 90 degree angle. next the bottom hinge was positioned for carpet set up, with pedal all the way up, per instructions.

The top bolt of the retaining arm was removed and the arm slid over to the left, the lower bolt was slightly tight, pedal was then installed around bearing and shaft and positioned on the two stand offs. the retaining arm

was moved into position around shaft and tightened.

Pedal was binding on the retaining arm and noticed that the clearance around top right of pedal was gonna be close. A washer was added to the lower retaining arm and that took care of the binding.

The pedal was pushed to floor and returned with no issues, tried and a few times and all seemed ok.

Engine started and noticed idle was too high. Pedal was secured but was already opening throttle. Continued to rev engine and all else seemed ok.

Raised car and adjusted the linkage(as shown in pic in previous post) so idle was normal. Basically just loosed bolt that clamped linkage and allowed it to free up pedal arm. Once freed up linkage moved and new idle position was found, secured linkage bolt. Started car and Idle was now normal, rev a few times and pedal returned fine.

Test Drive; 1st gear was fine, second also, going to third was notching and fourth was NOT, the pedal was stuck in the carpet, uppper right corner on the trani tunnel, and i had to kill the engine and reach down pull pedal out of carpet. For a second there i thought i was in a run away toyota!

I am gonna have to make some clearance by shaving off the upper right 4 holes and try again.

The bearing was left on the arm, not a bad feel, i could get used to just that but will try triming for now.

Hope this helps!

Frank

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Primary goals were threefold

1. Getting rid of the teflon strips, which is why I used a bearing

2- The annoying problem of rubber pedals popping out. Racers know what I mean. ;-)

3. Easier heel and toe thanks to the extension

Leverage is not related to the pedal itself, but to the lever on the side of the pedal box.

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