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Help with starter/solenoid install on 1976 model


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I'm sure there is a post out there on this just can't find the complete info.

Newbie seeking install process for Bosch reman. starter (its the common lighter/smaller unit most replace OEM unit with). I don't have a service manual yet but have installed starter/solenoid on classic american iron.

Any shortcuts, or key items I need to make sure I don't forget that could result in creating larger problems.

Should be straightforward but just want to make sure I don't get myself into trouble, biting off more than I can handle.

Thanks

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disconnect the battery! .

if your in Calif.? with all the emission

control plumbing inplace ? your in for a lot

of stuff removal to clear the starter out from

under the intake manifold

if your car has all that nasty stuff removed

your biggest worry is getting wrenches to the two

starter bolts . . . get a bright light and look.........

then ask

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Not sure what you mean? Its a 1976 2002 (non Touring, Bauer or Turbo)

The model # of the starter you bought. If it's smaller than the original, it's possibly the SR71, or SR441X?

This thread may be helpful: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,343614/highlight,sr441x/

Scott

1976 2002 Custom Dk Blue w/ Pearl

1975 2002A Sahara (sold Feb 2008)

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Thanks Scott,

I need to confirm which model Bosch unit I have. I was trying to get an idea of how hard/big of a job it is to install the starter. I am ok with hooking up the electrical connections.

Say if the smog stuff is gone, is there a lot of stuff that has to come off to install it, hard to get to fasteners to remove/ install and torque? Special tools or adapted tools that make for easier install etc.

If it is a bear of a job, I would most likely let my local wrench install it. Need to drive the car on a fairly long roadtrip with a solenoid that is on the way out (engages/starts every third attempt).

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my first hobby/profession was electronics and I fried the solenoid on the new starter. As long as you keep ground & + wires with correct posts (which may be reverse of the stock unit) that will be ok.

I find the removal/install to be straight fwd. You need to have fairly thin arms to reach around the back side of the starter to hold a wrench in there. Further searches on here will give you more insight on the phyiscal install.

Scott

1976 2002 Custom Dk Blue w/ Pearl

1975 2002A Sahara (sold Feb 2008)

SiteNamecopy.jpg

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Thanks,

I think once I confirm which model I have, the link you provided will make for an easier hook-up of the leads.

If I use drive-up ramps on front wheels and possibly have someone assist me, should that make it easier to install the starter/two securing bolts or is it something that is best performed with the car on a lift?

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All of the above is assuming your car is not an automatic. If it is, let us know and we can provide a few additional tips you'll need to know. I didn't know these things with the first time I did a starter R & R on my automatic and it ended taking me about 3-4 hrs. Now it's a 1-1½ hr. job (I work a little slower than I used to).

Bob Napier

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Wow,

The response and free flowing knowledge is great and greatly appreciated.

Car is '76 4 spd with Weber 32/36 and Weber air cleaner and battery trunk mounted. Still need to confirm if CA smog car and smog stuff still installed

Starter is SR440x

Just to summarize my take away on key recommendations. Let me know if I missed anything.

17/13/ and 10mm wrenches

disconnect negative battery cable in trunk

spray existing starter mounting nuts with penetrating oil prior to dis-assembly

remove water hose from intake manifold as well as oil dip stick

water bottle and throttle linkage bracket (non-business end) and OEM starter support bracket that bolts to engine block

use (2) M10x1.5x80 grade 8.8 cap/allen head bolts and nylon lock nuts (since OE starter support bracket is not used now, should I use washers on the cap bolts to spread support load beyond bolt head footprint?)

use zip tie around nylon nuts or tape nut into box end wrench to aid in starting

secure spade connection from OE solenoid to bottom tab connector on new solenoid and more secure route is to use ring terminal instead of push on spade connector

I think I ready to dive in. Thanks again

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Sounds like you've got a good handle on what needs to be done (looks like we can nominate you for membership in the anal-retentive DIY '02 repair group).

You'll also want to move the large black vacuum line that goes to the front end of the brake booster out of your way. The plastic elbow that goes into the booster is just a force-fit. Carefully wiggle it out, and you can then rotate the hose out of your way. I loosen the clamp on the head end of the water hose before disconnecting the intake manifold end. That way you can immediately rotate the hose up to minimize coolant loss and mess.

Come back and tell how much easier the job was than what you anticipated.

Bob Napier

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