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Noob needs help! 69 2002 cold start procedure


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Aloha all,

Just for fair warning, I am a noob. I know just enough to get myself in trouble. I recently acquired a 1969 2002, and its definitely going to be a long journey to get her back to the original glory.

That being said I have a question that I've searched for here but can't find a step by step answer for. How do I start this thing?

Specifically in the morning, after its been sitting all night its super fickle. It has a manual choke, I can provide pics if they're needed.

Here's the starting history, I had it sitting at a friends house this past week, just got it this weekend, at his place it would sit all day, I would come over in the afternoon to work on it and just turn the key, started every time no problem, been sitting for days and starts right up. I got it running well enough to bring to my place and bring it home. The next morning (5:30 am) I go to start it up and she won't turn over, can't figure it out. I come home that night and figure out that it has a manual choke, I put the choke on full, pump the gas 2-3 times, turn the key and it starts right up, open up the choke and she idles fine. Drive it around all day, make multiple stops, starts up w/ just a turn of the key all day no problem.

The next two mornings, I try to follow the same procedure, full choke2-3 pumps of fuel, turn key. Sometimes it starts n then bogs out, then won't start, then turns over, bogs out again,half choke works one day, not the next...I can't seem to nail down the starting procedures, or what the problem is, I'm pretty sure its a noob mistake, but I can't figure it out....

Thanks in advance. And many more questions to come. [/b]

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no cranking

or

no starting (engine firing)

are two different animals with different causes

you describe both conditions

no cranking = battery, wiring at battery and starter,

bad ground cables and connections, bad starter motor

no start (firing ) = fuel pump almost dead - bad diaphram

cloged strainer in fuel tank, dirty carb jets, bad carb float setting,

really old spark plugs, old dirty distributor points, bad wiring at the

coil or distributor

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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A lot of things can cause a carb car to have difficult cold start ups. All my carb cars have been a bit nasty on cold mornings rough idle etc. So I'm used to it!

That means you probably have an old worn or dirty carburetor that needs some tuning. Things pointed out on the previous post are most likely culprits.

If you are flooding the engine because of too much pump action, depress the accel pedal fully while you crank it and that should start it up.

The smell of the fumes say a lot about the mixture too.

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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Sorry for the confusion, She cranks every time. Doesn't start every time.

New development this morning. I get it started and drive about a half mile, and it dies. I get it started again, drive about a mile and a half, and it dies again. Turn around and drive home no problem, I've been told that means the fuel pump is going, (which would be a new personal record, every car I've ever owned has had the fuel pump go within the first month of me having it.)

Any thoughts?

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well then ........

clogged gas tank strainer

porous cloth covered gas hoses sucking air

replace all rubber gas hoses anyway now

fuel pump - almost dead

carb float needle - float level setting

junque in float bowl, dirty jets

ignition points dirty, pitted, not adjusted properly

bad wiring to coil-distributor, balist resistor =if the porcelin

resistor has a crack running through it? replace it yesterday

low gas level in tank - see tank gauge/fuel pick up strainer

clogged

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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depending on outside temperature, you may not need to pull out completely the choke. when i had a 32/36 with manual choke, on warm days i had to pull it out only 1/2 more than that it would partialy flood and was harder to start than no choke at all.

hth

2006 530xi, 1974 2002 Automatic summer DD
1985 XR4TI, 22psi ±300hp
1986 yota pick-up, 2006 Smart FT diesel

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Where would one locate this Porcelin resistor to check for said crack?

Sorry, like I said, Im a noob.

Any other "check/replace this so you dont die while driving" suggestions?

I have a couple other things that make me scratch my head, I'll post photos tonight when I get home.

Mahaloz

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Any other "check/replace this so you dont die while driving" suggestions?Mahaloz

That made me laugh! Well brakes, steering and suspension if you don't want to die!

Now seriously you can star by doing a tune up on your car change spark plugs, filters, points, condenser, wires (if needed) etc and see how it reacts.

Once you know your car is fine tune wise you can start to troubleshoot the carburetor first use some carb cleaner on it it could be filthy that should be part of your tune up. Then you might have to take it apart and check all the things stated on the posts above.

Let us know how that goes! If its any help my carb E21 has en electric choke but for start ups its almost completely closed and it progressively opens up.

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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