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Need Help with Ground Controls + KMACS


Colin

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So I am trying to install my DIY Ground Control perches with Kmac adjusters.

My problem is trying to sort out how to make everything go together.

Using the spacers provided by KMAC, the bottom one seems to sit above the top of the ground control hat. This of course will mean that the hat is not secured properly and wobble around.

Am I missing something? Do I need to grind down the spacer so that it sits flush with the top of the hat?

Here's photos of what I have thus far. FYI these are the rabbit inserts.

I put the big washer provided by ground control on first, BELOW the hat then put the spacer on after.

This all seems to make the top of the insert, the threaded part, only stick out on the top side of the strut bearing about 1 inch and will not allow me to use the longer top spacer with it.

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The spring perch needs to be located by the washer and supported by the bearing - can't see how what you have will work at all. The joy of custom set-ups. You need some kind of washer with a shoulder that will sit on top of the hat, or a hat with a smaller ID to fit snug over the top of your insert.

HTH

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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The spring perch needs to be located by the washer and supported by the bearing - can't see how what you have will work at all. The joy of custom set-ups. You need some kind of washer with a shoulder that will sit on top of the hat, or a hat with a smaller ID to fit snug over the top of your insert.

HTH

What if I just milled down the spacer to sit flush at the top of the hat, then put a big washer on top of that?

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What if I just milled down the spacer to sit flush at the top of the hat, then put a big washer on top of that?

that should work, but remember you might need a spacer/adjust the one you have/washers etc, so the bolt clamps it all together properly.

[edit] - whatever you do make sure the spring hat clears the underside of the strut mount.

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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What if I just milled down the spacer to sit flush at the top of the hat, then put a big washer on top of that?

that should work, but remember you might need a spacer/adjust the one you have/washers etc, so the bolt clamps it all together properly.

[edit] - whatever you do make sure the spring hat clears the underside of the strut mount.

Ok, that is what I was saying. It looks to me like there are a couple of different ways that I could do it, but the bottom line is you don't want the hat rattling around, right?

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Ok, that is what I was saying. It looks to me like there are a couple of different ways that I could do it, but the bottom line is you don't want the hat rattling around, right?

yep and not to touch anything other than the strut bearing.

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Yes, thank you, but in my case it is not applicable as I am using shortened struts, rabbit inserts, and the ground control coilovers which changes things significantly. I am a big obsessive when it comes to research so I am not exaggerating when I say that I've read every single thread on KMACs!

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I honestly don't think using the GC's with the K-macs is a good idea. Look where the load will be distributed to. K-macs are'nt designed to take the load that way. They're also designed to work with the original diameter coil spring. The amount of articulation the K-macs allow are too limited and you may see the urethane release from the bearing.

IMHO, I would sell ogg the K-macs and run the GC caster/camber kit.

Proud member #113

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I honestly don't think using the GC's with the K-macs is a good idea. Look where the load will be distributed to. K-macs are'nt designed to take the load that way. They're also designed to work with the original diameter coil spring. The amount of articulation the K-macs allow are too limited and you may see the urethane release from the bearing.

IMHO, I would sell ogg the K-macs and run the GC caster/camber kit.

I see what you are saying, but isn't it true that with the original coil spring that the load ultimately is distributed to the same place, ie the bearing? It should be the same thing, in effect.

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I see what you are saying, but isn't it true that with the original coil spring that the load ultimately is distributed to the same place, ie the bearing? It should be the same thing, in effect.

that's how I see it too. What do you mean CJ, not quite following you, as surely all strut mounts rely on the load being placed on the bearing regardless of spring size, or am I missing something (which is more than likely)? At a glance the kmac bearing looks to be about the same size as stock.

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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I honestly don't think using the GC's with the K-macs is a good idea. Look where the load will be distributed to. K-macs are'nt designed to take the load that way. They're also designed to work with the original diameter coil spring. The amount of articulation the K-macs allow are too limited and you may see the urethane release from the bearing.

IMHO, I would sell ogg the K-macs and run the GC caster/camber kit.

I see what you are saying, but isn't it true that with the original coil spring that the load ultimately is distributed to the same place, ie the bearing? It should be the same thing, in effect.

Yes, It's true, but you have a stock rubber mount, with more deflection available and a full diameter spring seat in the event you have strut bearing failure. The little bit of urethane on the K-macs limit the amount of deflection available, thus increasing the chance of delaminating of the bearing.

Look how the GC plates distribute load. Off the bearing and onto the unibody. Also, with the K-Macs, you'll have to space down the strut just to clear the K-Mac hardware. This will take away suspension travel.

Proud member #113

The rides!

www.cardomain.com/ride/792851

www.cardomain.com/ride/792793

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Well I am further along with finding a nice way to bolt all of this together.

To CJ's points, you don't actually have to space anything down to clear the KMACs. I'm going to machine some spacers that should make it work out nicely.

Bolting it up, it all feels very strong. With the style of KMACS that I have, the urethane is well backed by the metal bells, so I can't imagine the urethane failing. We shall see in time, though.

My only issue is, with the rabbit inserts, you don't have much in the way of spare threads once you bolt everything together. I'll post pics after the weekend.

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