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Skeptics report on jumping gas guage.


Napes
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A couple of weeks ago someone reported solving their fluctuaring gas guage needle by running a wire from the neg. post on the battery to one of the fuel pump studs, thus negating the need to pull the instrument cluster and run a ground from the back of the fuel guage.

I doubted this would work, but, as the poster had said, it's easier than pulling the cluster so I decided to try it. And, what'd you know - it worked. Jumping needle problem solved in my wife's '76.

Now maybe someone more electrically savy than I can explain to me why it worked. My OEM negative ground strap is relatively new and bolted to clean connections at both the block and the grounding tab by the brake fluid reservoir.

Bob Napier

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That would tell me that one of the rear grounds is bad. Try removing the wire you ran (Bat - to sender ground) and the original ground wire from the sender and running a short ground wire from the sender ground terminal to a nice clean ground in the trunk, like the tail light ground stud. If it works, the original ground at the back is a bad connection. If it doesn't work, the battery ground is probably bad and other gauges will start to act up. The wire you ran verifies that the ground on the cluster is good since that was not bypassed.

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Alternator is fairly new and the ground from the tank sender to the grounding point under the driver's side tail light is good. It's been checked and cleaned with 1000 grit sandpaper (both the connector and the landing point on the car body, though both were without any corrosion to begin with. Remember, the car has always been in the southern Arizona desert and is totally rust-free.)

Nothing else electrical on the car behaves any differently than when it left the factory, but I will try running a new wire from the sender to the ground in the trunk and see what that does. I pulled the connector off the sender end and it appears as shiny as when it was new.

Bob Napier

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