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For oz Tom-Roof removal pix and basic info:


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Hi Tom

Here you go: I've posted some of this stuff before but I figure there is always a new audience every few years, kind of like Disney movies and kids!

Note: pix are from different cars, different times and most are 6+years old.

Note: This post assumes basic familiarity with metal working tools, safety, and that the car is taken apart enough to do the work w/o damage.

This is all vintage SCR circa 2002 at our old shop:

Melt body solder (lead) from mig welded rear section at top of rear window opening. A low heat blue flame is needed. Don't melt the solder, just heat it up until you see it change hue, then it will scrape off in chunks cleanly rather than running all over the place.


Cut above the weld line:


ID the welds using some old 80-100 grit paper. Drill or grind all welds along driprail:


Don't go thru the support rail, just thru the outer skin:

Note: I use Wurth spot weld bits, 8mm size. No Rotabroach, Blair, etc. They are expensive, annoying to use, skip all over the place (meaning they good potential for injury) and just don't last.

The Wurth bits (or comparable non Wurth branded ones) are good. Use some cutting oil. A spare spray paint cap is a good handy small reservoir to dip into before each cut, you'll see that Dan is using an old paint cup that is cut down.

Lots of pressure but low speed works well for this, so it is necessary to have a good drill. The one shown is a Snap On, but any good brand will work well (Chicago Pneumatic, an old ARO, Sioux, etc.) as they still have lots of torque at low RPM. If you don't break a sweat after drilling about 6 welds, you're not pressing hard enough. Pressure and low speed will save drill bits and at $15 each, its worth it to develop technique.

You can also grind the welds with an 1/8" cutoff wheel, but that technique is best saved for another post or a Youtube tutorial.

Next, pop the weld remnants free and peel off the skin in small sections:


I like to use what KD sells as a "gasket scraper" to chisel the welds apart where the bit missed or I didn't drill enough. Use a light hammer to hit the chisel as what you're after is more of a sharp shock than brute force to separate the weld. The substructure is fairly weak and you don't want to distort it. My favorite hammer is my Snap-On BF 608 planishing hammer. Its customized with a longer better balanced handle than it comes with standard.

Also shown is the CP 9109-28 die grinder and some of the good SAIT discs (.045 and 1/8") discs I like to use for cutting (.045) or grinding (1/8")


Remove the skin:


Stay tuned, I have to get to work now, I will post some more later when I get home or if I take a break during the day.


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