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Alternative to hard line to clutch master?


Cameron
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I put in a new clutch slave and master earlier this week and I had a hell of a time trying to get the hard line that runs from the brake fluid reservior to the clutch master because the new and not so plyable grommet. I ended up re-using the old grommet and still had a really hard time getting in into the master. I was wondering if anyone has devised a possible alternative to using the stock hard line. It obviously doesn't hold any sort of pressure so the line needs to only be able to stand up to the brake fluid. I imagine a regular rubber line would swell up way too much, would it be possible to use a metal fitting into the grommet on the master and then a braided rubber fuel line all the way to the reservior?

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I have sucessfully used the BMW blue fabric covered line usually used from the resorvir to the brake m/c. At the clutch m/c I use the same plastic elblow as used at the brake m/c. The important thing is to make sure once all fitted use a "cable' clamp to keep the fabric line from jiggling arround, putting undo pressure on the elbow.

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I had no idea there was such a thing as brake assembly grease... I was very wary of trying to use any sort of lube because I don't know what does or doesn't have any petroleum based lubricants in it. Yes, I do know how well dry goes... I'm going to try the soft line and plastic elbow suggested by the other poster, just because it will be much easier in the future to remove it for whatever other work I do in that area without having to worry about where my brake assembly lube has gone off to.

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I use braided stainless on my Triumphs. Suppose it would work on the BMW as well- just haven't crossed that bridge yet. On my TR8 race car, there is two lines. One down to the slave and then one back from the bleeder position back to the reservoir. The second one has a bleeder in the end of it and is tucked in near the reservoir. When I need to bleed the clutch, I crack the bleeder, remove the reservoir cap, stick the end of the line into the reservoir, hop in the car and pump away until no more bubbles.

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I use braided stainless on my Triumphs. Suppose it would work on the BMW as well- just haven't crossed that bridge yet. On my TR8 race car, there is two lines. One down to the slave and then one back from the bleeder position back to the reservoir. The second one has a bleeder in the end of it and is tucked in near the reservoir. When I need to bleed the clutch, I crack the bleeder, remove the reservoir cap, stick the end of the line into the reservoir, hop in the car and pump away until no more bubbles.

That's clever.

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