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Reinforcing cracked subframe near steering box


ROBONE20

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Just like the title says, I got a hairline crack on the motor mount near the steering box on my front subframe. I know it needs to be welded to reinforce it somehow with either a gusset or plate but does anyone got some photos or documentation of what they've done on theirs. Also what size plate do I need to have fabricated? If someone can tell me the type of material and thickness etc it would be great? Does the plate need to be wrapped around it slightly? I plan on having it completely rebuilt while I'm at it. Here's an example of what I'm talking about, but I don't want to pay that kind of money, since my cousin can weld for free.

http://coupeking.com/product_main.php?product_id=343&image_id=1128489211

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well you've got the answer -

have your cousin study the photos, and

he'll do just fine.

YOU DO NEED (both of you)

to look closely at how the steering box and motor

mount fit to that arm before fabricating your reinforcement plates,

and welding. There is very little clearance so you

don't want your plates to bulky.

link here is good-=> http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,306188/highlight,front+sub+frame+reinforcement/

1128489163.jpg

and of course other folks here have posted photos

of their subframe reinforcement - " search " is yer friend

02frontsubframeparts1.jpg

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Here is another way, I never claimed to be a welder. 1/4" L shaped steel welded in the corners of the existing bracket/mount.

Just need to stay clear of where the nut and washer go for the stud for the motor mount.

Motormountreinforcement9.jpg

Motormountreinforcement.jpg

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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This is very important. Coupe king says doublers are welded in and then sandblasted. It is a total waste of time to repair this without having clean metal. Do not arc weld. A 120v mig may do the job depending on ratings. Most 120 v migs are designed for sheet metal....Do it right the first time.

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Two things, my guy welded a bar into the corner of the engine mount up the side when I had the subframe rebuilt. Also CD, I have that "heat shield" in a box in my garage with parts the PO gave me. He had a header installed so I guess that never made it back in. Problem??? Been like that for the entire 8 years I have owned it

75 2002: weber, ANSA, lowered, 14" wheels, new engine, new suspension, rust free & square.

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A photo. Boxed in mount.

The mount undergoes cyclic loading, i.e. tension, compression from engine rocking. Hence the fatigue crack.

post-66-13667635266425_thumb.jpg

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Also CD, I have that "heat shield" in a box

in my garage with parts the PO gave me.

He had a header installed so I guess that

never made it back in. Problem??? Been like

that for the entire 8 years I have owned it......?

yer slow cooking yer nice new Blue Idler Bearings.

Serve with fava beans and Chianti.

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Good thread and interesting approaches to the same fix.

While helping Marshall remove his front end, we noticed the small area below the left side engine mount that can trap dirt, sand, moil, etc. Has anyone drilled a hole to let things drain out from that area?

If that area is completely boxed in, then I would think that would increase the chances of rusting.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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