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Nose Panel Positioning Dimensions


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Hi, I am replacing the front nose panel on my 1972 2002. The car was hit in the front and as such I need to position the new panel precisely. Yes, I have seen all the factory and other dimensions but none of these go from an established point on the body to any points on the nose panel!

Does anyone have a dimension from the body to the nose? There are three holes in the top of the nose panel but I have no way of knowing if these are symetricly opposite. Note that for "squaring" up the front end, one needs to use two diagonal lines to equal points, when these lines become equal on the body-panel, then the shape is square. This technique is only useable if the points used are know symetric (same left verese right).

Anyway, if anyone has battled this before, I'd appreciate any numbers. (actually, with all of the 2002 front end accidents, one would think that BMW would have this available).

Thanks to all.

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not being a 'body man ' but I would say the alignment of the front

valance is done together with hanging the front frnders also at the same time.

Without the fenders you would not know the gap at the rear of the fender-to-front of doors - and that is determined by the front clip alignment.

The fenders are your gauge for nose alignment (?)

Measurements will differ from car to car. Your inner wheel house/strut

mounting should as the measurements below.

Others here can open their hoods and provide you with dimentions

from the three strut mounting holes to the holes formed along the top of the nose - just infront of the radiator for reference

02Bodymeasurementsfronthalf.jpg02Bodymeasurementsrearhalf.jpg

02fenderreplace.jpg

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I could be mistaken, but in the days of 2002 production I don't think the factory paid too much attention in perfect/consistent alignment of body panels from vehicle to vehicle. The critical factor in aligning the nose panel is the position of the fenders (particularly along the door seam) and I would concentrate on getting all the adjacent panels to fit without being too picky about measurements (hopefully your chassis/suspension points are straight). I'll bet there is probably up to 5mm difference between 2002 models if one decided to measure--the BMW factory tolerance for body panels wasn't that great

I was wriitng this before cd made his entry. Looks like we are in total agreement.--jp

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I don't think the factory paid too much attention in perfect/consistent alignment of body panels from vehicle to vehicle.

I think they did.

I think, though, as the dies aged and were replaced, there was a noticable

shift in how the cars went together.

If you look at the way they're assembled, there's a lot of adjustment

to let the front fenders be adjusted to the shell and the hood.

Which I would add to the fenders, grilles, and doors:

don't fit a nose without also fitting the hood to the doors, then

the nose to the hood.

The nose is really designed to be put on dead last- it'll let you get

good door seams, fender alignment and so forth, and then

you get to conform the nose to what you need.

It's pretty well thought- out once you start assembling it in factory order.

It really sucks when you're trying to fit a replacement fender without

moving anything else.

What I've found,

t

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Hi, I am replacing the front nose panel on my 1972 2002. The car was hit in the front and as such I need to position the new panel precisely. Yes, I have seen all the factory and other dimensions but none of these go from an established point on the body to any points on the nose panel!

This is old school.

It's much less about numbers and more about how it fits.

Since no one has come up with a numerical reference point, the easiest place to begin is at the "B" pillar -- it doesn't adjust. :)

If the door gap is good at the "B" pillar, and it's good where the door meets the front fender, go a ahead and tack the nose panel in place and test fit the hood. If the hood can be adjusted in such a way that it clears the windshield wipers and bolts into the hinges fairly straight, you're good to complete the welding.

...after you remove the hood.

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  • 9 years later...

Here you go.  Taken from the RealOEM.com site.

 

Front axle support/wishbone 
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No. Description Supp. Qty  From   Up To  Part Number Price   Notes
01 Hex bolt M16X1,5X186 2     07119914873 $13.59    
02 Self-locking hex nut M14X1,5 4     07129922470     ENDED
02 Self-locking hex nut M14X1,5 ZNFE 4     31121095420 $0.88   ENDED
02 Self-locking hex nut M14X1,5-05 ZNS3 4     31106774714 $1.12    
03 Split pin 3,2X25 4     07119945196 $0.09   ENDED
04 Washer   2     31112614159 $1.64    
05 Rubber Mounting   2 03/1966 07/1977 31131108373 $9.64   ENDED
05 Rubber Mounting   2 03/1966 07/1977 31131108371      
06 Washer   2     31112614113 $1.02    
07 Hex bolt M10X50 2     07119913859 $0.89  

 

 

Front axle support 
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No. Description Supp. Qty  From   Up To  Part Number Price   Notes
01 Front axle support   1 02/1962 07/1977 31111116772 $797.36   ENDED
02 Towing bracket   2     31112406105     ENDED
03 Washer A10,5X22 4     31111114348 $0.67    
04 Hex bolt M10X30 4   07/1977 07119900581 $0.71   ENDED
04 Hex bolt M10X30-10.9ZNS3 4     07119902912

 

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