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Issues at start up - starts then dies


MarkS
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I started my 73, gave it steady throttle, (around 2000 rpm), after around 30 seconds, it died. Would not restart. Tried pumping the gas, tried giving it no gas. Nothing worked. Let it sit for a few hours, then it started up and ran fine.

2 hours later, the same thing happened. Started fine, then died after 30 seconds or so. Would not restart.

Can see that my fuel filter, located in the engine bay, has gas in it. Also, just got the car out of the shop 2 days ago where it had a major tune up. Been driving it regularly and today was the first time this has happened. The car has a Weber 32/36 if it makes a difference.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your thoughts and let me know if I can provide any additional info.

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mechanical fuel pump ?

how old is it ?

if you don't know - replace it.

how old are the rubber gas hoses ?

don't know last time they were replaced ?

replace all of them

last time you looked into the 32/36 float bowl?

never have? do so now to clean out the sediment

and to blow out the jets inside there,

and check the function of the float needle valve

what is the level of the fuel tank when this happens ?

less so when the tank is FULL ?

time to lift the fuel pickup-strainer up out of the tank for a look

condition of any of the ignition wires ?

are you following the pattern yet ?

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Thanks everyone for the input.

The fuel pump is in the trunk, I hear it whirl when in turn the ignition on. My fuel filter, located close to the carb, has fuel in it. Does that eliminate the fuel pump?

The carb is new, the fuel tank is about 1/4 full. Will check for sediment in the bowl. The ignition wires are new as well.

How do I test my coil? Have an extra one that came with the car but unsure about it's condition.

Left the car at work, will try it again later today or tomorrow. Thanks again and I'll update once I track down the problem.

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To test the windings within the coil....try this.

The primary winding of your ignition coil is the first to receive voltage from the battery. Find the resistance specifications for your car's primary coil winding in your repair manual. Then using a multimeter, place the leads on the smaller, outside poles if you have a traditional round coil, or on the indicated poles if you have a newer enclosed unit. If the reading is within the range indicated in your manual, your primary winding is ok and you can go on to the secondary test. if it is even a little out of spec, the coil should be replaced.

The secondary winding of your ignition coil delivers the spark to the distributor to be sent to the spark plugs. If it's bad, you'll get a weak spark or no spark at all.

To test the coil's secondary winding, attach the test probes to the outer 12V pole and the center pole (where the main wire goes to the distributor). Determine the resistance and check to see if it's within the range indicated in your repair manual. If it is, your coil is up to the task. If it's even slightly out of range, your coil should be replaced.

Hope this helps.....of course you can always swap the coil.

Brett

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