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sheet metal gauge question...and email apology

Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

First, if anyone has emailed me in the past week,and I did not respond, can you please email me again? We're using some new email filtering/spam products at work on our email servers...and its not working properly..we are dropping some email, and I haven't been able to nail down where the issue is. If I haven't replied, I apologize, its been hit and miss. I would bitch about it...but I'M the one testing and implementing it :)

Anyways..I am going to go buy some sheet metal today to make some small patches...I need to patch up some holes in the rear 1/4 panel (up by the bumper) as well as some 'inner' stuff..underneath the bottom rear of the front fender (not the fender itself, the cowl underneath). Maybe make some new chunks of the inner fender well as well.

will 20ga cold rolled do the trick, or should it be 18ga? Also, any recommendations for HAND tools to cut and shape the new metal? (the real owner of the compressor at our shop came and hauled it away the other day, so its all hand tools for the next while). I decided to flange and lap weld everything...I'm not going to do butt welds the first time around.



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Guest Anonymous


URL: http://oemproamtools.com/milwaukee/6850.htm

For the exterior body, like the quarters, fenders, nose, etc.--but NOT the rocker panels-- 20ga is about right. For anything structural, like the rockers, wheel arch, flooring, etc., I like 18ga. Much of the floor is 20ga, I think, but you can get away with 18ga if you're welding it to the rocker or some other 18ga part. Some of the frame rail bits are 16ga.

I borrowed an electric shear from a friend; made by Milwaukee, there are other brands, and cost isn't excessive if you look around enough. This thing _rules_ for cutting sheet metal. Much better than snips, saws, etc. You can use a normal wood-type hand held jigsaw with a hacksaw blade, but it's not nearly as nice as a shear.

I always overlap and weld twice if possible--once on each side of the seam, and I weld the whole seam rather than just spot-welding. Most of my work has been confined to the flooring, etc., and perfect looks aren't a priority. If you have a good welding unit and you get the butt exactly even, butt welding works OK; but with my setup I'd just burn holes in the edges.


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